amedee

Mijn firmware zal hier niet helpen, buiten de Ulticontroller is alleen de RepRap Discount Full Graphics Controller ondersteunt... Nu ik denk dat die LCD ook zou kunnen werken (zelfs met de officiële firmware), maar ik heb al gezien dat de kabels af en toe verkeerd waren gemonteerd ('tab' op de verkeerde kant van de connectoren)

Maybe I am reading this wrong, but it looks to me you are missing an essential tool: a metric hex screwdriver. Without that you have no chance to succeed: you won't be able to tighten enough the set screw.

Ça penche chez toi...

Ça il faut éviter, pour mon UMO ça me donne des résultats bizarres. Il faut garder la 'vraie' taille dans le profile et changer la largeur de ligne... Oui mais pour Cura ce n'est pas un problème, il donne toujours des valeurs absolues, c'est le firmware qui traduit... Si tu compares les profils Cura UM2 / UM2+ il y a très peu de différences

Here is what I think: you have quite some PPA's in your list; one of them probably pulled qt 5.6 from backports (this one in "hit 18" in your last update). Cura wants python3-pyqt5 which relies on qt 5.5 (default in Min 18.1) and this is where it breaks! Just FYI, on my default install I have: after8 ~ # dpkg -l qtbase*Desired=Unknown/Install/Remove/Purge/Hold| Status=Not/Inst/Conf-files/Unpacked/halF-conf/Half-inst/trig-aWait/Trig-pend|/ Err?=(none)/Reinst-required (Status,Err: uppercase=bad)||/ Name Version Architecture Description+++-==============-============-============-=================================un qtbase-abi-5-5 (no description available) Just my view, let's wait if @thopiekar has not a better idea...

Les experts en UM2 pourront confirmer (ou infirmer), mais je pense qu'il y a peu de différences entre une UM2 et une UM2+ quand on a déjà mis le bloc Olsson (en dehors du feeder), donc dans Cura tu pourrais aussi utiliser le profil pour L'UM2 Extended + pour 'bénéficier' de la réduction automatique de largeur des murs...

Il suffit de changer le 'Line Width' dans Quality -- Par exemple pour une buse de 0.6, on fait 0,6*0,875=0,525; et dans le Shell, soit calculer pour l'épaisseur ou plus simplement spécifier le nombre de parois

Strange... I made a quick install of Mint 18.1 (Cinnamon) and python3-pyqt5 does not install qtbase-abi. Install from PPA runs like a breeze: I believe something else is installed on your system which requires incompatible version What does "dpkg -l qtbase*" gives on your system?

That would be the next step:

Petite précision à ce sujet... Ce n'est pas Cura en temps que tel, mais le profil d'imprimante qui définit la largeur. Cette histoire de murs de 0.35 pour un buse de 0.4mm est apparue avec le bloc Ollsson parce que Anders avait suggéré que les résultats étaient meilleurs en prenant 0.35 pour ses buses. Pour faire court, la largeur de ligne est définie dans le profil comme étant: "line_width": { "value": "machine_nozzle_size * 0.875" } mais seulement pour les UM2+ et UM3. Donc si @acca a une UM2 extented "pas plus", la valeur par défaut est la taille de la buse (Ça n’empêche pas d'utiliser le coefficient manuellement -- je le fait pour mes UMO -- mais par défaut les UM2 et UM2+ n'ont pas les même valeurs dans Cura)

It also really depends on what you are doing. If you are in 'organic shapes', Blender is the way to go. For a more 'engineering' type of work my choice if Fusion360. I don't like their cloud / subscription model; the day they decide to stop their free offering I'll be completely stuck... But today, there are not too many alternatives in particular if you are using a Mac. By all means, stay away from Sketchup. It is a great software, but not for 3D printing as it has the tendency to generate non-manifold volumes...

Yes, absolutely -- I would do exactly the same to find which dependency is really missing or broken. Just wanted to stress that we need to start from a 'sane' situation...

He has "broken packages", means he is not on a coherent dist. Trying to solve anything before he he gets a consistent system is a waste of time...

There is something wrong with your environment, it is not fully up-to-date. You should run an 'apt-get update' and an 'apt-get dist-upgrade' to get a consistent environment.

Funny, they run the Smoothie firmware...

You need an additional small fan to cool the head. Now for the UMO, 5v might not be the best option. Ideally you should get a 24v fan. 12v might be OK as well depending on your board version (or if you already changed the 12v step down)

Recently I started to get erratic temperature reading from time to time (even when the printer is idle), so I have a PT100 board on order Yes! That should no be a problem -- In particular if you run your board at 19v. (I am currently having a 30W/24 heater at 19v; works fine, but takes longer to warm-up than original heater. I should either go to 24v on the board or 40W heater) Don't forget to run the PID autotune after changing your setup.

If you have an UMO (not +), you will need the E3D board if you want to use a PT100. Alternatively if it fits you can still use the thermocouple, it is pretty accurate; the only downside is that you need to keep the amplifier close to the head. For the other questions, @neotko is best placed to answer

I was about to purchase the Duet a couple of month ago... The only thing that stopped me is that it doesn't have wired internet as I don't want to rely on WiFi (their older board had wired internet). The French SmoothieBoard looks nice as well...

The UMO has the 'old' UltiBoard 1.5x which is a shield for an Arduino Mega, with the Pololu / Allegro stepper drivers plugged on it (Like the RAMPS controllers). At that time RTDs where not very popular, and most printers came with thermistors. To improve the temperature feedback loop Ultimaker decided to use a thermocouple with an amplifier on top of the print head, which gives better results in particular at higher temperatures. If you want to use a thermsitor instead of the thermcopule, you just have to swap the connections, and add a resistor on the board (the place for the resistor is foreseen on the board). You can even go for an RTD using E3D's adapter plate. The UMO+ is using the UltiBoard 2.x which is the same as in the Ultimaker 2, so it is PT100...

Well, yes, that's another problem... :( I probably should have warned you... Some fans accept PWM, others do not! Votlage doesn't play a role (as long as it is not exceeded). If you want to know more about this, there is this video from the most boring 3D printing channel of the whole Internet (and beyond) Fans with 3 wires are just fans with a feedback line (like in the video), real PWM fans have 4 wires, but our printers are not designed to use that, so we have to rely on 2 (or 3) wires fans accepting PWM as input. I have no reference for 25mm fans, I personally rely on the 40mm PAPST 414H which are working fine...

Chinese shopping is a lottery... The thermocouple may or may not be OK, you can try it, most will be OK. For the E3D hot end I would advise as well to stick to a genuine E3D one, there are too many bad clones, guaranteed clogging... I am frequently buying items on AliExpress, but for these kind of things, I do not want to take the risk of having bad parts. One failed print and you loose the benefit...

And also, PauseAtHeight is broken in 2.4.... (see https://github.com/nallath/PostProcessingPlugin/issues/38 )

Il a dit: extrudeur BondTech -- avec ce machin là ça passe ... ... ou ça casse Je n'ai pas d'UM2, ce n'est pas de l'info de première main, mais avec l'isolateur I2K (et son coupleur associé ), Anders Olsson imprime couramment à des températures très élevées. Mais sans ça au dessus de 250°C en effet, le Teflon se déforme très vite. Un peu hors sujet, mais tant qu'on est au chapitre hautes températures, pour info, avec une UMO il faut rester en dessous de 250°C (245°C) parce qu'en plus du Teflon il y a le PEEK qui se déforme vers les 250°C. Pour monter en température sur un UMO, il faut soit metter une tête UM2 avec la rondelle I2K soit passer sur une tête métal E3D...

Je me joint aux autres... A 270°C le Téflon souffre. Le BondTech pousse très fort, le filament coince en sortie, et paf....