amedee

C'est une très bonne description

In my view they are way too short for the Ultimaker gantry design (And they won't be supported properly in the upper stage of this design)

Pour l'instant c'est surtout la course au nombre de "followers" et à la monétisation plutôt qu'à la production de contenu de qualité... Si on a du temps à perdre, pourquoi pas ça peut être divertissant, mais en terme de contenu j'aurais du mal à recommander quelque chose.

Yes it is designed for the stock bearings. I was also initially thinking to use Igus bearings, but there are none with that particular size. I would have to use 2 smaller ones, but then it would be slightly longer and you would loose print surface...

Yes, providing you have the E3D thermocouple -- to avoid any misunderstandings: by default the E3D is sold with a thermistor not with a thermocouple. So if you ordered a thermocouple you are fine.

I used the E3D (24v) heater cartridge and the E3D thermocouple. The thermocouple is compatible with the UMO amplifier. The downside is the UMO is 19V, so it takes a bit more time to warm up (But I can still print at 270°C without problem). I plan to feed the UMO with 24V later anyway. If you want to keep the UMO heater cartridge, you need to keep the Ultimaker heater block as well. Other than that, you just need to connect the hot-end cooling fan on 19V on the board. No firmware change needed, unless you want to print hotter than 265°C, in that case you can bake a shiny new firmware here (my usual shameless plug )

Ca n'aide pas beaucoup sur ce genre de modèle parce que la surface est trop petite et la tête reste dessus... Le mieux est d'en imprimer plusieurs à la fois...

I would do the following: measure the current of the whole strip, make a rule of three to see what length correspond to 300mA, and then decide what you put in the printer. E.g. if your 2.50m take 750mA, then you will get 300mA with 2.5/750*300 = 1m ; so cut 1m and double check, but you won't be far.

Yes, the PWM is generated by the microprocessor and delivered through a BC817 transistor. The max current for the BC817 is 500mA, but you need to stay away from that limit unless you like SMD soldering...

I have no experience with 1.75... The 1.75 E3D hot end should be better than the 3.0mm as they have a pfte liner in the head which should eliminate clogging with PLA. If you go for 1.75 you need to change the Bowden and for good results you should change the extruder as well. See this article from @neotko for the details: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20556-ultimaker-original-175mm-filament-conversion I stayed with 3mm because I have quite a lot of 3mm filament and my printing volume does not justify the change...

Don't go over 300mA

ou l'objet est tout petit... (Et dans ce cas c'est le problème classique de surchauffe sur les petites surfaces)

Depending on what you are looking for. PC-Plus is a bit better on tensile/bending strength, PC-Max is more resistant to impact. See also the data sheets PC-Plus / PC-Max If temperature is not a factor for you (I don't think yo want to snowboard at high temp), you should consider fiber-reinforced filaments, like Nanovia PETG CF (Data sheet) -- @darkdvd uses it for the air intake on his car since quite some time (see the pictures at the bottom of the page) You probably need their I2K thing as well -- @neotko knows better...

When you have a print sliced with fine details, the host need to send a lot of GCode to the pinter. If your USB connection sucks (for whatever reason) and the host can't send GCode fast enough then the print quality will suffer as the printer will have to wait for the next GCode (you won't really see the printer stopping but the quality will be bad). So if your Windows is too busy doing other things, or if the driver is cursed, you will get bad prints. I had that in the past with Octoprint running on a Raspberry Pi Model B (first generation). It worked fine for most prints, but the hardware could not keep up with the load for detailed prints.

Juste les toilettes... Donc pour un bateau je ne sais pas, mais un sous-marin, ça doit le faire...

I tested Polymaker PC-Max as I was looking for something that would resist higher temperature, together with good mechanical properties. I have not done strength tests, but so far I am very happy with the results. When sanded you do not see any layer, it is just like a molded part. PolyCarbonate has very good mechanical properties, the downside is that it needs to be printed hot (260-270°C) which is not possible with all hot ends (e.g. It is a no-no for UMO stock hot end)

I don't think the problem is the slicing per say, but rather the rendering itself... I never rand 15.x on my Macs, I went from 14.x to 2.x, but I know that the display library used in Legacy Cura (wxWidgets / wxPython) is not trouble-free on OSX...

I tend to agree with @gr5, most of the layer shifting cases come from the pulleys... Now if you really want/need to tweak the motor current on X/Y: - Check you firmware date: before November 2015 the default was 1300, and it has been brought back to 1200 in later firmware releases (firmware version can be seen on the UltiController. - If you want to go lower than 1200 you can add the M109 GCode suggested in the above post to your 'Startup GCcode' in Cura - Alternatively you can build a custom firmware here, with this firmware you will be able to adjust the current from the UltiController and save it to EEPROM if you want to (shameless plug)

From the schematics, the fan goes directly to VCC/2 (that is the 19v input). No fuse, nothing, just straight connection on the + side. The ground side goes through the transistor. So a short will definitely kill the transistor, and if it is dead we don't know for sure what it does... Typically it acts as an "All or Nothing" switch, but it can be anything else... I find my way in digital signals, but I am not good enough in electronics to give advice as it could make the problem worse, but I'm afraid the short pushed current to the microcontroller and that is not a good sign...

I've read that PC-Plus is more shinny and PC-Max is more matte (I have only tested myself the PC-Max). Indeed only black and white, very good mechanical properties, but not necessarily easy to print (there is a thread somewhere here)

PolyMaker PC-Max

No it is not... LINK

An Eltimaker 3 Extended....

Maybe I overlook something as I don't know exactly how the UM3 manages the cores, but one could write a postprocessing script which ensures core 2 is "low" and remaps the temp settings from core1 to core2...

C'est encore plus confortable si tu laisses tes bobines en permanence dessus Ce n'est pas un drame de devoir changer, mais je constate que chez moi, en dehors de gros projets j'utilise rarement mes 2 imprimantes en même temps mais plutôt en fonction du filament qui est dessus et je pense que si j'avais une double extrusion je ferais la même chose. Si on peut se faciliter la vie pourquoi s'en priver?