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  1. When doing some other repairs on my UMO+ I managed to damage the connector on my heated bed, resulting in detaching all soldering connections (yeah, stupid, I know). Obviously I want to fix this, so I can bring my printer back to life. Only I'm not much of a hero in soldering electronics (and missing the right tools), and I'm not sure if it can actually reverse the damage done. So I think my best option is to replace the entire bed with a new one. But every UM upgrade kit out there is either sold out or sold for ridiculously high prices, so that's not an option. My only source so far seems to
  2. I don't have a direct solution (facing issues with my printer as well at the moment ;-) ), but maybe a step in the right direction: have you checked / cleaned the knurled bolt (the spiky thing grabbing the filament) and the feeder gear itself?
  3. Thanks, I'll give it a try in that case (after I've fixed a few issues with my printer though)! I'll post the results here once I know more!
  4. I'm having a strange issue with my UMO+, that I haven't been able to figure out myself. My last succesful print was a pretty large 5h print, but after that the problems started. It prints a very uneven first layer, it almost looks like too much material is deposited. This causes the nozzle to start 'plowing' through the material, and causes it to push down the print bed. At first I thought it was a feeder issue, as the knurled bolt was grinding into the filament. But now I think the issue must be somewhere else, as the feeder seems to be working fine. I feel I've tried all the opt
  5. Recently I've been playing with the thought of upgrading my UMO+ with a dual fan setup. However, I don't have a stainless steel nozzle and a roll of Carbonfill laying around to print the fan cap, as recommended in the Ultimaker upgrade guide. What I do have is a few small samples of ColorFabb_HT, which I bought for experimentation purposes. Looking at the glass transition temperatures HT should be able to handle the heat even better than ColorFabb's carbon filament (HT: 100C vs XT-CF20 75C). So would it make sense to use HT for this purpose?
  6. Heb je iets meer info over materiaal, instellingen, temperatuur, etc? En foto's plaatsen doet het ook altijd goed bij problemen!
  7. Ik heb het zelf tot nu toe bij printen met PLA gehouden, maar op basis van wat ik overal lees heeft ABS sowieso de neiging om te krimpen, wat de oorzaak zou kunnen zijn voor zowel het maatverschil als het kromtrekken. De temperatuur verhogen zou kunnen helpen voor het beter laten hechten van de lagen. Voor een beter beeld van het probleem: welk materiaal (kleur / fabrikant) gebruik je en wat voor andere printinstellingen (o.a. snelheid, ventilator) heb je gekozen?
  8. Sounds like there's still some red filament stuck in your nozzle. You could try the so called Atomic method, which is very useful for cleaning your nozzle from time to time. Instructions can be found on https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19510-how-to-apply-atomic-method
  9. Cura has some settings for the Z-seam, either changing its coordinates to hide it somewhere in your model or to randomize it. The first option probably won't work for your model, as there are not a lot of corners to hide the Z-seam in. Randomizing might help in your case. Not sure if there are any other settings to consider here.
  10. Er is in Cura inderdaad een instelling voor de snelheid van de fill. Zie onderstaande afbeelding, Infill speed is denk ik wat je zoekt. Mocht je de instelling niet zien dan is deze verborgen en kun je deze via de instellingen van Cura aanzetten.
  11. Version 1.0


    This was my biggest model so far and I'm quite satisfied with the result after lots of sanding, priming, and painting. As the model is made for the UM2 Extened, I had to split the wings and fuselage using Mesmixer. I printed the parts with 0.15mm layers in various PLA types (ran out of UM PLA after the body ) One of the body parts came out weird, and next time I would look into making alignment pins of some sort. Gluing with CA superglue worked fine, only aligning some parts was tricky. I underestimated the finesse that goes into neatly painting a model of this size, but in the end I got the
  12. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20411-adjusting-the-model Per model settings is what you're looking for.
  13. Welkom! Je printbed staat inderdaad waarschijnlijk te ver van je nozzle af waardoor je eerste laag niet voldoende in elkaar wordt gedrukt. Een kwestie van met de stelschroeven van het bed het geheel iets dichter bij de nozzle zetten.
  14. I guess because your model is too big to fit in the build volume of your printer and you have 'Scale large models' turned in Cura's settings. In that case Cura will automatically scale the model until it fits the print volume. Not sure if this may also be a unit issue (mm vs cm etc), but otherwise you may have to split your model into multiple pieces.
  15. For the top layer it might be wise to check both the layer view and the X-ray view in Cura. Both will show you if there's something wrong with your settings / model before committing to a print. Also, there should be a setting somewhere that removes the top surface, but right now I can't remember which one it was. Maybe someone else can jump in here? The stringing in the vase might be a result from the combing setting, which deposits some material inside your object while minimizing retractions. Might be related to Cura thinking that the model should have a closed top. No problem for solid o
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