amedee

Forgot to say that I posted the fiber plate mod for the stock UMO hot end as well: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mod-for-neotko-s-symmetric-dual-fans-umo-umo-40mm

The 'benchy's are vey god on both. I had to increase the temperature with the E3D, but that dark green PLA is quite old (or is it the ruby nozzle requiring more temp...) I know there are some (strong) opinions about the (3mm) E3D hot end not being suitable for PLA, but the main reason for me was to be able to print at higher temperatures. I have printed Polymaker PC-Max at 260-265°C without problems, something you can't do with the stock hot end. If you want to print hotter there aren't many option. UM2 hot end would be another route, but not the same price tag. Now if you just print in the 200-235°C range, I don't see any reason to go for the E3D, a well maintained stock hot end is just perfect.

I have deleted everything and re-uploaded the design, it should be OK now. Also, this version is a drop-in replacement from the UMO hot end and re-uses the fan which is not the best option if you need to print details I have slightly adapted @neotko's fan cap for the E3D: That par is on YouMagine as well: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-version-of-neotko-s-symmetric-dual-fans-for-umo

Here it is! https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-version-of-neotko-s-symmetric-dual-fans-for-umo

Ça me rappelle quelque chose...

Makershop in France still has stock available: http://www.makershop.fr/pieces-detachees-ultimaker/29-plateau-chauffant-pour-ultimaker-original.html

If you have a 1.5.7 board, you have an UMO, not an UMO+ like the subject suggests... Try to ref-flash an UMO (or UMO-HBK if you have Ultimaker heated bed) firmware from Cura. That should work... If it does not, you will have to see if it is still recognised by the Arduino SDK and reflash from there, but first try with Cura.

This is typically what happens when you flash an UMO firmware on an UMO+ (or the opposite). Can you tell us exactly what board version is in your printer and which firmware did you flash?

Fusion360 renderings always look nice -- reality is something else

Thinking about an E3d version...

For the Fan output, definitely as they take more current at startup. For the LEDs there should be no probs to go a bit higher. But yes, better be safe than sorry

The current goes through a BC817 transistor so the absolute max is 500mA, but avoid to go beyond 400mA...

It is a straight connection to the 19v input, so no practical limit.

Inventor et Fusion 360 sont deux produits différents. Pour faire court, F360 est une version simplifiée de Inventor. Comme pratiquement tous les produits Autodesk, les étudiants on droit à une licence éducation, mais pour les autres ce n'est pas très abordable dans un contexte non professionnel... ... sauf F360 qui est gratuit pour les hobbyistes!

There should be some kits still available with the resellers. I bought mine just a couple of weeks ago...

It is already hosted on GitHub It is quite simplistic though, the front-end is an AngularJS app with a PHP backend. It is just the matter of setting the right DEFINEs before invoking the compiler. (I appreciate a Node backend would have been more natural, but having a LAMP server already running, it was easier for me to take the PHP route from an infrastructure standpoint)

Yes, and until recently this was the case as well with UM2! If you have a recent board, the 5v output can be controlled by the firmware, so the easiest path is to replace the 24v fan by a 5v one... Otherwise you will need some additional electronics.

Re. the firmware, Marlin has gone through a complete rewrite/review over the last couple of years. The current RCs are quite different from the Ultimaker one. While the Ultimaker version is not bleeding edge, it is rock solid, so unless your are looking at fancy features I would recommend to stick with this 'older' one. My builder focuses on reliability: if you don't select any option you get the same firmware as the one provided by Ultimaker (with a couple of small bug fixes), and the majority of options are not intrusive. As for the upgrades, in my view most are overrated... I am printing a perfect Benchy with a fan duct as single upgrade! (I am not saying the other upgrades are worthless, but it is not necessary to go crazy on these to get perfect prints)

With a bit of delay, it magically appeared today in Google's cache, so i have what I was looking for Just waiting on some feedback from the YouMagine folks, I leave everything 'as is' for now in case it would help them to identify the problem.

Double check your kit when you get it, mine is a year or two old, so they may have changed the packaging. Either way: for the 5v fan, use J34 header (labeled "FAN 5V") in the middle of the board; for the 24v fan, use the J20 header (labeled "FAN 19-14V") located at the short side of the board. Note that if you have a recent board (2.1.4) the 5v fan output is not activated by default on UMO+, you will need a custom firmware (e.g. mine 8) )

Do you really have a 5v fan? The one from my kit is a 24v one...

Re the wheel, I have perfect prints with the original wooden main gear... I wouldn't go that path...

Extruder 2 (with the plastic parts) is the most recent. But they are both based on the same principle, so it should not matter in term of performance. You need to check that the wheel inside is in good shape, if not replace it by a bearing (see this post) Note that extrusion problems are more often cause by a damaged Teflon coupler rather than issues with the extruder itself

Thanks Matt -- Just sent an e-mail as well.

They are both 'upgraded', the one being a bit newer than the other... The old one had no wheel in it, it was a piece of nylon (or POM or something like that) pushing the filament on the gear.