korneel

located in NL, 240 volts, functions just fine, i bought the one that Blizz got but didn't use.. since I'm completely focussed on 3d hubs i don't use it anymore..

it's an actual fuse clamp one the one this topic is about

i think i paid him 50 euros.. shipping would be 13.. let's say 50 in total?

yeah same here.. i actually bought the one from Blizz not using it anymore, you can have mine for a small fee?

I heard other names but Jar Jar was new to me.. just noticed it when trying to compile UM2+ firmware..

I was looking through the firmware repository since I needed a custom firmware and I've only just now realized that the UM2+ was codenamed JarJar. it just really makes me not want it anymore.... irrational I admit.. I also want to go through the firmware to find out if there are some "Meesa" easter eggs

Hmm this is interesting.. is this the olsson block, a PTFE coupler and my tube? there seems to be a lot of room between the PTFE coupler and the hot end isolator. there should be around 1 or max 2mm.. it seems yours has around 5 mm.. if there is too much room between the block and the PTFE coupler, filament will get in between maybe there's an I2K insulator also? yeah I thought about that, but even with the I2K isolator there should not be such a big gap.. if he shaved of some of the tube (which he said he did) that might explain :)I'm afraid something might have gone wrong with the pressure or something else.. Yep, check mine of my UM2 (not my plus), it's almost the same distance... (I2K installed also) yeah that;s not good with a spring.. way too much pressure on the PTFE..

Hmm this is interesting.. is this the olsson block, a PTFE coupler and my tube? there seems to be a lot of room between the PTFE coupler and the hot end isolator. there should be around 1 or max 2mm.. it seems yours has around 5 mm.. if there is too much room between the block and the PTFE coupler, filament will get in between maybe there's an I2K insulator also? yeah I thought about that, but even with the I2K isolator there should not be such a big gap.. if he shaved of some of the tube (which he said he did) that might explain I'm afraid something might have gone wrong with the pressure or something else..

Hmm this is interesting.. is this the olsson block, a PTFE coupler and my tube? there seems to be a lot of room between the PTFE coupler and the hot end isolator. there should be around 1 or max 2mm.. it seems yours has around 5 mm.. if there is too much room between the block and the PTFE coupler, filament will get in between

great congratulations on your new machine!

it should.. the design should be remarkably similar.. the one from ultimaker does allow you to secure the hot end couple completely to the block, mine requires you to "fine tune" the pressure

honestly, that's simply the best way to test your entire feeding/printing system. if the little ice cream cone is not there, you have a problem.. example at 8:50 your icecone can be larger or smaller depending on how much the filament has retracted, but if it does not come out as a cone you have a probleem with the feeder, ptfe or nozzle..

can you try starting a new print with PLA and see if the machine drops a nice icecone before printing on the front left side?

There are always rumours of a new machine ;)If the 2+ does what you need it to do, waiting doesn't make sense (eg; you will be waiting forever, as there will always be something 'better' on the horizon) what Nallath said.. if the Um2+ works for you.. buy it.. because I'll let you in on a secret.. in 2017.. there will me more new machines

so a flow of 220 is absolutely not good you should be fine with 100, in some cases the flow has been increased to 106 if you have a material that can flow well when heated, such as ABS. bronzefill does not flow well or spread out so keep it at 100.. if you have issues with the flow, check out the material path first. you have an Olsson Block, so gently screw out the nozzle, take out the Bowden tube from the top of the head and (when cold!) take a piece of filament a gently push this through the head. if you feel any resistance, so will your filament.. most likely it's the PTFE coupler.. the ticking sound you hear is the feeder motor not able to make it's rotation. it's just as bad as grinding since it will "hammer" on the filament, starting to dig it's way in.. you should not be hearing that..

yeah and most of the times it'll work just fine.. but that would be my guess

well, remember, that with the new PT100, this sorta compares to around 230 for the existing machines.. and if you are using a .8 nozzle at 50mm/sec (which is something the new feeder can do!) i would not be that far from that temperature..

I dont quite know what you mean by this.. I think @UltiArjan is referring to the fact that the other temps stay the same in all options, but the PLA temp goes from 210-210-195 and then up.. so same same, down, up.. I am assuming it has everything to do with the firmware that it is using, where you select the material and the nozzle size.. i suppose you would be able to select a nozzle size and a temp would fit to that.. so it might be default nozze, then 0.4, 0.25, 0.6 0.8 .

i checked.. I ran 2 machines, one with the new PT100, one with the old one with a fluke temp sensor inside the nozzle. the old PT100 had differences up to 10 degrees. my test : printer at 250 degrees celsius with the old sensor : fluke reporting 258 degrees, printer at 260 degrees, fluke reporting 270 degrees. printer at 100 degrees, fluke reporting 106 degrees with the new PT100 i also tested these 3 temperatures and they were spot on. so perhaps i was just unlucky with a bad PT100 but they differences are very large...

@neotko; could you share your basic settings for Simplify3d for your Um2? very interested to see what you have changed compared to stock

I've now lost all notifications....

I hope the new printer can print money.. that would help with the 3d printing projects..

thanks! that is fantastic feedback! i was already messing with those settings since i thought something might be wrong there but this confirmed it question thought.. is there an easy way to place the objects flat just like there is in cura? if you have really small models with loads of triangles the select surface just doesn't work right..

all; love to get some feedback on my settings. been using Simplify 3D since it has some advantages over Cura for me, for instance direct output to OctoPrint but also better support structures and so far, better (perceived?) quality. my issue however is that if I slice a print in Cura, it takes 12 hours. if I take the same print and with the same kind of settings as far as I can see, it would take at least 18 hours.. love to get some feedback on my settings as per below my goal is good quality with 0.2 layer height in PLA;

@SandervG just letting you know.. CoolBlue is STILL not selling Ultimaker 2+'s .. why isn;'t an official reseller actually reselling your products?