chrisw

Nevermind on this. I think I just need to read an experiment. I'm getting weird results from some of my attempts, such as the filament getting retracted almost back to the feeder. I think that's because I was not understanding the relative vs absolute modes. So I just need to read and learn more about gcode

Ok, this thread got me thinking, because I have a design that needs some clean overhangs, and I dread removing supports after something has been printed. So the Kapton tape idea seemed interesting, but then I was thinking why not print my own tape out of the same material that I'm using for the project? The filament will bond to it, and it should blend in. Here is an example of using a thin sheet and a small block to make clean ceilings: Chris

Pauseatz works great. I'd like to modify its script in the gcode, making it extrude a lot of filament to purge the nozzle after Resume Print is selected. So far I've only been able to make it extrude a little extra for some reason, even though it seems like I'm telling it to extrude a lot. I'd like it to extrude as much as you see during the standard Ultimaker2 start of a print. Here's a sample gcode script written by Pauseatz: ;LAYER:15 ;TYPE:CUSTOM M83 G1 E-5.000000 F6000 G1 X200.000000 Y40.000000 F9000 G1 Z15 F300 M84 E0 M0 G1 E5.000000 F6000 G1 E5.000000 F6000 < G1 E-5.000000 F6000 G1 Z5.000000 F300 G1 X183.018000 Y131.416000 F9000 G1 E5.000000 F6000 G1 F9000 M82 G0 F9000 X183.018 Y131.416 Z4.000 ;TYPE:WALL-INNER What am I missing here? Chris

I love the turntable, and that whole setup. Nice machine! Does the heavy spool spin easily enough to feed without a problem? I noticed Madesolid started offering 5 lb spools of a couple colors of PETG. Their prices are high though, so I haven't tried one yet.

The sad part for me is reading about the grinding of a divot into the filament... a frustration that I dealt with 8 monthd ago with my new UM2. After many hours of reading here in this forum, I found Robert's solution, and it's been smooth sailing since. Without that feeder replacement, I think I would have been frustrated and maybe my UM2 wouldn't have anywhere near the 1000 hrs of use. If it's a universal understanding that the stock feeder causes many problems... why has UM not spent a few bucks to buy the design from Robert, make injection molds, shoot some parts, and install those into all new UM2 products?

Something I can't figure out how to control the speed of in 15.06.02 is the movement speed during combing. I have the travel speed set to 200 mm/s in Cura, and in the UM2 hardware settings I have Max X = 200, Max Y = 200. It seems like all movement is 200 or less except during the combing actions, which happen at breakneck speeds. How can I slow that down? edited to add: This issue of mine may not be related to 15.06.02. I think I just don't understand all the movement and acceleration functions yet. Turns out I was over extruding in my current print because of a wrong diameter filament setting. Globs were building in a couple places, then the nozzle would run into one at high speed and cause the nozzle to be off for the rest of the print. Maybe it's all going same speed now as it was yesterday when I was using 14.09

Thanks.

In the Layers view I can't see the blue lines showing print lines or retractions. Is there a way to enable those? Those lines were present in previous versions of Cura before the 15.06, and they're very helpful for me when using a pause command. Blue lines let me see whether or not after resuming the first thing to get printed will be the scratch block over in the corner.

I had a similar issue tonight. I loaded and tweaked a model that should take 5.5 hours to print. It became 20 hours for some reason. I removed the Ultimaker2 printer that was listed in Cura (This machine profile was brought over from 15.06.01, I think), then I added it again, and the print times were more reasonable.

Your printing temps seem very low even after the increase to 230. I've had best reslts using PET+ at 245 - 253 in my UM2 with a .6 nozzle, 38 mm/s speed. Bed temp: 70, fan at 25%

I've gone through 6 rolls of MadeSolid's PET+ so far. 250 head and 70 bed temps have worked very well. Measuring the diameter of that filament with a caliper before printing is important because sizes on my 6 previous rolls have varied from 2.88 - 3.03

I think your idea of pausing and adding a layer of tape is a good one. You can build a simple scaffold into the model with space allowing for the tape. Then disable all supports in Cura. Pause at the top of the scaffold, add the tape, maybe also use tweak at that height to change printing speed (slow down for 1 layer maybe) and increase flow rate (maybe 105% for 1 layer). That's what I've been doing when embedding a horizontal steel plate into a part: Pause, drop the plate onto a scaffold, push some extra filament through while it's paused to make sure it's all primed, then resume. Tweak slows everything down 50% for a layer

So basically it sounds like they're creating good ads with pretty pictures, but not backing it up with quality hardware. Bummer!

The Touch device seems like a great idea. I've been on the fence about ordering one, but haven't yet. No good (3rd party, independent) reviews showed up in my searches, so it'll be nice to hear your feedback on it.

I agree with others. This site is much more navigable now. Thanks for working on it!

It's interesting to see your Option 1 version. So far I've only used Option 2. The part that I'd worry about with #1 would be getting the threads started, making sure they're straight. When there's no spring pushing down on the coupler it's easy for my fingers to feel whether or not the threads are turning freely onto the block's threads, or if there might be too much friction because of a cross-thread. In option #1 the spring might obscure that feel I would worry. I'm confident in using just 1 hole on that steel coupler to adjust it a bit after it's all assembled though... like when making adjustments to add the correct spacing between the block and the fan shroud for example. Maybe I'm just too lazy to disassemble the whole thing again (I do have an extra steel coupler from UM sitting in a drawer just in case I bust it, though)

Try this link if you're looking for a Windows version https://software.ultimaker.com/current/Cura_15.04.exe Or this one for all version: https://software.ultimaker.com/?show=all

Not a bad idea. Then I'd still need to cobble together a build plate warmer to fit the Go plate, unless they can provide that too. I'll ask

Yeah, that's quite a difference.

I bought 5 ft of this one: http://www.mcmaster.com/#51805k86/=x750zh The material looks and feels just like the original, however the size I chose has a larger ID than the one that comes with the UM2, and this has some pros and cons. The pro part: There's much less drag on filaments that are 3.0+ mm in diameter. The con part: It's not quite as stiff as the original one because the ID is larger, but OD is same... so the wall is slimmer. That fact combined with the extra room inside makes the retractions not as accurate as they were with the original. Now there's a little slop that you can see when retraction occurs. If I just wanted a replacement for the original, I'd get the same style part that I got, but with 1/8" ID instead of the 5/32": http://www.mcmaster.com/#51805k72/=x756gd Those other two you listed may work as well. I only have experience with the one I picked so far though

I'm in a similar situation to what the OP described, where I may need a second printer soon, and all the parts I'll be making with it will be small. The reduced footprint and price of a Go model would be nice if it were as functional as its big brothers. Even if the price of adding those extra parts makes it $175 more expensive than the current Go listing, I'd buy it. I already have extra parts for my UM2 just in case anything fails, so it would be nice to have that stash of extra parts covering 2 printers. The lulzbot mini has everything except the ability to stand alone. So neither one of these two mini machines has everything I want. However maybe adding a Mattercontrol Touchpad to the mini could resolve its weak area.

Are there plans in the works for the addition of a heated build plate, or is this definitely not going to happen for the GO model? thanks, Chris

Settings that've provided me with good results so far: nozzle: .4 mm nozzle temp: 250 bed temp: 70 layer height: .15 speed: 38 mm/s retraction: 30 mm/s, 4 mm fan: off filament: 3.00 mm flow rate: 105% movement: 225 mm/s nozzle: .6 mm nozzle temp: 250 bed temp: 70 layer height: .25 speed: 35 mm/s retraction: 30 mm/s, 4 mm fan: off filament: 3.00 mm flow rate: 105% movement: 225 mm/s Also I've started using less glue stick than usual (thin layers). It makes removal easier after cooling, and I haven't had anything come loose while printing with this material yet.

Dim3nsioneer, I had that issue once with this PET+, but I was running at higher speed than recommended with taller layers than usual. If I follow the manufacturer's suggestions or stick to similar speed, heat, and layer height settings, then my parts come out as solid pieces. On one of my prints I tested a vertical wall to destruction. It broke in a wavy line across the wall, instead of straight across on a layer line. Inside the break it looked like 1 piece of plastic. I couldn't see separate layers. With XT I've also seen this sometimes, but everything needed to be just right, and I'd still have warping.

I started using this PET+ a couple weeks ago. So far I've tried 3 different colors (tangerine, translucent red, black) and they all perform well. No warping or shrinkage, zero blockages. I don't even bother to do a cold pull. Instead I use the Move Material function from the UM2 each time before printing, and whatever was in the nozzle melts and flows on out. I'm having much better results with this material than I did with XT, My red XT was brittle and had a tendency to warp if everything wasn't just right. I e-mailed colorfabb about XT and UV rays, because some of my prints will be spending many hours outdoors. Colorfabb didn't have any encouragement for me about using XT outdoors. MadeSolid told me this PET+ won't be negatively affected by sunlight for the couple hundred hours total outdoor time that I inquired about. I still need to test that claim of course. So I'm wondering if anyone knows any serious negatives about PET+. I'm quite happy with it, but I'd like to know its weaknesses too. Anybody? Chris