fergazz

Hi fellows, I will order soon some filaments for my small 3d printing business. I have the distinction of offering premium materials not found for sale in my country: nylon bridge, bronzefill, XT ... apart from ColorFabb PLA and PLA Ultimaker. Since I cannot bring a lot because of volume I need to set between 2 of these 5 beauties, what do they recommend? I have a preference for easy to print materials and aggregate value. PS. also I will buy an Olsson Block kit I need to order just 2 of those: - ColorFabb Brassfill; (how it is comparing to bronzefill?) - Taulman Alloy 910; (vs. nylon bridge? stronger but as "easy to print" as bridge?) - ColorFabb HT Dark Gray (+nozzle); (this or Carbon Fiber PLA from Photopasta? Do I need the harder nozzle for this Photopasta filament?) - NinjaFlex Semi; (Flex or semi-flex? Seems that semi is easier...) - Photopasta Coffee HT (smells goood and HT! hummm...) XT and nGen are guaranteed because they are easy to print and has lower price. ok, I admit I'm a fan of ColorFabb Some other filament that is not on the list but should? Any help will be welcome Cheers community! PS. Sorry guys, tried to post it on "filaments/other brands" but got a 500 error more than 10 times.

looks like an ice aspect, so great!

Thank you guys for those informations! I'm thinking ahead because two of my axes, 6mm / 320mm long, had rusted recently. I sanded them, put more oil but the printed head has made some noise when sliding for some positions. I didn`t notice influence in print quality yet but if the noise continues after cleaning again I will have to exchange these axes. Unfortunately we do not have Ultimakers representatives in Latin America and will have to opt for an alternative solution. So, i found an add of a "Cnc Router Axis Linear Guide" and it have those especifications: - Rectified shaft 6mm; - steel 1045; - tolerence H7 (-0,012). - 1 meter long need to cut it Anyone know if it`s a good quality stuff? will it meet my needs?

Woooow damn! Things are going better than I imagine!! Bigger, faster and stronger... I definitely need to bring an Olsson block kit and try spirilize! I suppose that Printed Solid guy (Matthew?) should have those... next week I will purchase some filaments with him for my stock.

I believe that the 0.8 nozzle of Olsson block kit should be a good choice to print spirilize...

How did you set this? I never heard about it, seems curious...

So, you talk about z-scar... that`s curious because I thinked that a benefit to print spirilize was avoid the z-scar! So, if you print just one shell (0.4, 0.6 or wider, doesn`t metter) how it will leave a z-scar if the nozzle stay constantly rising without stop for a step up layer? I saw a photo of a hollow vase here in community (made with a T-Glassy filament) that was with a diagonal z-scar. Actually my print (the blue one that I posted above) stayed with a little z-scar to without using spiralize.

That`s the model done, without spiralize. I liked this final result. Thanks for the advises fellows!! Cheers!

thank you guys! Really, just one shell like 0.4 wall thickness? That`s so thin. This object has 1.2 and some points are wider. It`s not that time that I will try spiralize... and I don`t think I will do something that thin. Cheers!

Can I use spiralize for the object below? I never use this and I have short term, is it tricky? What are the benefits? Cheers community... I`m back to the game!

Hi ultimaker fellows! I`m starting into photogrammetry and I don`t know which PC configuration choose. I`m more than a month trying to find some reference about it without to much success. I will use to create 3d printed miniatures, 20 to 100 microns, ex: cars, people, yachts, animals, babies, etc. and maybe for VR and industrial solutions in a near future (update system in 2-3 years). I suppose to start to work with a maximum of 2000 photos with 15M each per project. My main doubt is relative to processor. based on the cost-benefit, what configuration will give me a balance between performance and longevity? (1) Wich processor should I chose? i7 5820K LGA 2011 v3 (SIX-CORE) 12 threads / CACHE 15MB / 22nm; i7 6600k (skyline)LGA 1151 (QUAD) 8 threads / CACHE 8MB / 14nm; i7 4790k LGA 1150 (QUAD) 8 threads / CACHE 8MB / 22nm; i5 6600K (skyline) LGA 1151 (QUAD) 4 threads / CACHE 6MB / 14nm; PS* Other PC components: SSD 250GB + DDR4 2400 16Gb RAM (upgrade next 2-3 years) + HD 2T + GTX 970 4GB 256bit (maybe upgrade SLI next 2-3years) (2) Should I invest less in Video Cards (sted down to GTX 960) and focus at Intel six-core processors and/or SSD? (3) What should I consider about performance increase? (4) Cinebench is a good benchmark source to use as a performance parameter for photogrammetry? Any help or tip will be welcome... Cheers, fergazz

Definitely galvanize is a process, the pdf file above shows that this brand sell all the necessary machinery and titled as: Copperface small galvanic machine. But I think I understand what you mean, can you save by purchasing separately. I suppose use this process to create decorative objects but I need to study about... by now I farm out of galvanizing services because I have not enough demand.

awesome machine!!! It`s now in my wishlist...

looks beautifull, congrats!!

He meant that the look of woodfill, when it comes out of the Ultimaker kinda resembles MDF. Aaaahh ok... thanks!

What did you mean here, to cover the print with MDF or fineer? As I said I don`t have where to buy wood filaments in my country, that sucks. Good to know about their sandability, I suppose to bring some wood filaments in my next trip to Europe or EUA.

Hi guys! Finally the airbrush painter give me a feedback. Take a look of wood paints that he made [media=8502][/media] [media=8503][/media] [media=8504][/media] [media=8505][/media] Looks good for me! 30 bucks each award... now I`m waiting for the consumer feedback to start this project. There are also other awards for this client including a silver Cannes Lion (big challenge!). I would love to have a complete Fablab around to do stuffs with CNC, pos-production and printers, of course. Anyone thinking to move to Rio de Janeiro? I need a business partner! The Olimpic games is camming I will keep them posted about this stuff. The deadline isn`t tight for those, thankfully. Cheers!

Maybe a CNC machine service? or just a carpenter/ woodworker? Actually I found a good airbrush artist close to me, he said that have experience painting like a wood, let's see, I'm waiting for his feedback with photos and service budget. But it's good to get a plan B and see what's better. I will keep you posted... thanks for the advise! Cheers

Woow... that's an awesome job! I would love to be that guy neighbor Thanks for share!

Hi fellows! I got a new job to do, replicate an award. The 3d CAD model is done and I would like to make it as close as possible from the original, take a look: [media=8408][/media] Wood filaments are to much difficult to find in my country, and it's darker than I need. This wood has also some dashed... what technique should I use here? Primer and painting? If yes, should I mix yellow and orange? I never did it before, just use primer a couple of times. What about the glaze/varnish finishing, it's possible to do it at home? Cheers for all community!

Hey earaujo! I'm from Rio too... check out our group in Facebook and stay tunned with brazilians ultimakers owners... seach for: Ultimaker Brasil Aquele abraço! Fernando Gazzola

I will try as soon as possible a friction welding technique with my Dremel rotary tool, that`s what I have in hands right now, but I`m very curious about this tool above.

For cleanup this is my favorite tool: http://www.amazon.com/BBQbuy-Pencil-Welding-Soldering-Lighter/dp/B007A9YSPW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1446666104&sr=8-5&keywords=butane+torch Hi gr5! What kind of cleanup you can do with this... It`s like a heat gun? Have you ever post anything explaining it? Cheers and peace out V

Thanks everyone for the help! Yeah, I know how to adjust the height screwing the bolt for left or right. If I took the space out the maximum height (screw down max, less pressure on spring) will stay with a gap of 0.3 for the nozzle and if I screw up (more pressure on spring) the gap stay higher. I know that are 3 screws, 2 on font and one in the back/middle. The back screw is ok, the front ones are with that gap, looks like that this spring is smaller than necessary, because of that I put those spaces. I`m printing right now. When I finish that I will make a video showing this. Thanks by the way! I have to say that I learned a lot with you guys during this year. Thanks for everyone here, for G5 too and others collaborators... you guys make me feel that I definitely choose the best option in the matter of hardware and community even without a physical support in my country. I also created, a year ago, an Ultimaker group in Facebook (Ultimaker Brasil) for non-english speaker from Brazil to take some doubts in portuguese, we have about 20 users there. Cheers!!

Thanks everyone for the help! Yeah, I know how to adjust the height screwing the bolt for left or right. If I took the space out the maximum height (screw down max, less pressure on spring) will stay with a gap of 0.3 for the nozzle and if I screw up (more pressure on spring) the gap stay higher. I know that are 3 screws, 2 on font and one in the back/middle. The back screw is ok, the front ones are with that gap, looks like that this spring is smaller than necessary, because of that I put those spaces. I`m printing right now. When I finish that I will make a video showing this. Thanks by the way! I have to say that I learn a lot with you guys during this year. Thanks for everyone here, for G5 too and others collaborators... you guys make me feel that I definitely chose the best option in the matter of hardware and community. Cheers!!