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???? what's going on??

not too much information in colorfabb tips and tricks for XT orange dutch: Adviced 3d printing temperature: 240-260C Adviced 3d print speed: 40 - 70 mm/s Advised Heated bed 60-70C Build platform For colorFabb_XT we advice to print on a heated bed. After printing, the build plate needs to cool down to about 20-30 C at which point you can remove the printed part. ----------------- x ---------------- XT tends to have underextrusion? Ow fellows, I need to print those stuffs like 15 by once. The situation is tense! I will probably try different process and goes to 0.15 or 0.2... need to talk with my clients to a plan B or maybe print with some hub around in paralel. I think that this art don't need to have to much layers, what they think?

Hi there folks! Since I started with Simplify3D, less than a year, I never tryied to print XT. Before with Cura it was a little bit challanger to setup properlly. I loose those profiles but I remembered that it needed to print with more flow (105%?) and I think that temperature was around 255°C to print with 0.1 layer high, right? Retraction I remembered to make some modification but I don't know if I need to keep distance bigger or smaller. I would like to know if someone has a profile with XT to start with or even some tricks and tip to deal with it. It's actually a Orange Dutch and I need to print it with 0.1 layer high. The object (attached) is thin on the middle-up part and I suppose to laydown temperature a little bit and improve cooling on the top of the buildings I got a service to print 50 of those business card stand and I need to print it as fast as possible cause deadline is close but I need to keep a good visual as well. It's for the Nederland embassy in Brazil... i have to print other 100 with PLA (on progress). I'm really worry about underextrusion, it's happening when I try to print more than 3. I'm printing 3 by 3. Any help with will be welcome Cheers!

If tensile is the deal... what about nylon Taulman Alloy 910? I don't know how it perform with impact but it should be good! Just take a look of the specifications: http://taulman3d.com/alloy-910-spec.html I will also follow this topic cause I'm planning to make some parts for a mountainboard brand (a snowboard from tropic/ off-road skate with big wheels) and I'm interested for a kick ass material for crash tests (base of bindings, top of trucks and hubs). If possible I don't wanna go to hot, more than 255°C, but maybe I will upgrade to reach it

hey @SandervG I just sended a private message for you

Thank you for the feedback. I will definitely try nickel, copper and how cost is to get chomed outside. By the way I found a great beginner source written by "Enza3D" to anyone looking for post processing tips, Metal Plating (the right name for "metal looks like" ) is on the bottom of the page: https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/post-processing-fdm-printed-parts#introduction For those looking for advanced tips just follow @cloakfiend specially his topic about "Blended PLA with acetone" or something like that... awesome stuff!

thanks for the quick response!

Hi there, Nederland embassy in Rio de Janeiro want to contact someone from Ultimaker Team as soon as possible to check a participation in a workshop for the national King's Day on 27 April. I want a telephone for immediatly contact. Met vriendelijke groet, Fernando Gazzola

Hi community! I've a challenge (one more! hehee). Make a little pingent with metal looks like. I never tryed coating before. Galvanization is a good deal or it requires high heat material properties? What technique should I look for? My best filament for heat toleration is PLA Tec, up to 110 degrees (at least). I also have a bronzefill but pingent looks so tiny (0.8mm minimum) and probably it will be hard to polish for a shine finish... but maybe is the best choice! That's a preview art sended by client (I will change lots of stuffs here). It could goes at maximum 30mm wide Even if I didn't get this job I would like to know what kind of coating should I try for other aplications and tests Cheers bros!

Olá Cláudio, as Ultimakers possuem aquele "bowden tube", o tubinho transparente que serve como guia do filamento para a extrusora, e muitos filamentos flexíveis encontram atrito dentro do tubo e travam o "feeder" ou alimentador causando falhas ou interrupção da impressão. É necessário fazer alguma modificação pra utilizar tais filamentos, por exemplo comprar um bowder tube com menos atrito interno (loja G5store, http://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/bowden-tube.html... deve ter similar no brasil, necessário pesquisar). Existem outras formas de imprimir flexíveis em uma ultimaker, fazer o filamento entrar na extrusora sem passar pelo tubo, acho que já lí sobre isso... necessário pesquisa aqui no fórum para achar outras soluções. Qual filamento flexível você está usando? Por acaso é o Ninjaflex ou semi-flex? O semi é mais rígido e funciona melhor com as Ultimakers sem modificação, necessário aprofundar pesquisa pois chequei muito superficialmente. Mantenha-nos informados, abraço

PLA Tec looks like an awesome material! Anyone made more tests with that? Surface looks better than PLA? It's a good option for people that don't like ABS? Cheers!

more pressure = bigger coasting distance (0,5 as a defaut) so... for this small object, printing with PLA at low speed and 0.4 nozzle I will try to reduce this distance a little just to play around and whatch the results I would love to reduce z-scar and blobs, I will keep making tests to avoid it. Cheers!

Good to know that isn't a modeling problem hehee. What about those coasting distance, it's usefull for what? Just want to know when I should use it... in that case it is located in a weak area cause there is a boolean subtraction cilinder inside that box. thank you for this advise and other posts related to simpify3d

Hi there Ultimaker family!! After two weeks testing Simplify3d have some doubts to report. After some experiments and reading posts in the community I realized that S3D, although quite complete, has some errors in reading imported STL objects compared to Cura. I started to work better the face problems when modeling (using 3dmax and STL Check modifier and viewing with xview) and I have used the Netfabb basic and/or app to fix the parts as I noted that S3D repair is terrible or maybe I don't know how to use it yet. Here a photo of trouble viewing parts, the left came from Netfabb basic and the right was approved on STL Check from 3dmax: Note that there are some gaps in different places of both objects (same print settings)... the question is: Those gaps interferes in the final print or it comes as a problem only in the preview visualization? For customers I still making my jobs with Cura for only then migrate permanently. I made some successfully test prints creating two processes for the same impression (bottom half printing with 0.2 layer high and top half with 0.1)... I was impressed with the new possibilities that this software can offer as well as in support generation and infill variation. My only negative point by now is above mencioned. Cheers for all Ultimaker's extruders!

Caro PEAN, que tipo de problema está ocorrendo? Qual versão do Cura estás usando? O upgrade kit que você menciona é qual, instalou o Olsson Block kit?

Nice, thanks for that, I will definitly increase it! I don`t know if my temp sensor is one of those who has a delay of 10°C cause my prints looks much better with temperatures around 195-198 degrees for 0.1 layer high. Another doubt, I'm not sure how much the room temperature influences the final print setup, remembering that I live in Rio de Janeiro and usually work with a maximum of 28 degrees environment for print ... when the ambient temperature rises I turn on the air conditioning and put my sunglasses 8)

Despite my disappointment with this printed piece the customer was satisfied. I put myself available to redo but he (who had practically "forced me" to do in 300 microns). But he liked and was pleased to see her and touch her design... he said it was not for mechanical purposes and for him was enough... I felt relieved and offered a discount for next order. :PLast month I made an object for him at 100 microns which came out perfect! That was my lucky...

Yeah, that`s very usefull... I tryed to increase infill speed to 70mm and Cura advised me to stayed in 60mm/s hehehe. [media-thumb=19746][/media-thumb] I really like Cura I just think that the software should improve in auto generating support, as well as edit those when necessary ... and about change temperature at a certain point in the peace, we have to always leave the same temperature, in some situations only change the fan speed doesn`t help. Because of that I`m thinking to move to simplify3d :(

Cool, but which parameters of plastic volume should I play around? I usually print PLA at 0.4*0.1*50= 2.0mm 3/s or 0.4*0,06*30= 0.72mm 3/s... what it means? Sorry if it`s a stupid question

Thanks a lot I will try that! I had a vague recollection that needed to move on temperature, but was doubtful if needed up or down it. 8)

Hi... i just print a low resolution (for the first time) gear but I suppose that I setup something wrong or maybe don`t level the bed right. I put the same temp for PLA 195C, speed 40mm/s to 60mm/s. Finishing is terrible and the layers are not bounding... I forgot to change top and bottom heigh and it was just like 0.6. I never made a so bad looking print, I`m dissapointed :angry: What I did wrong and how can I fix that for the next low resolution print? [media=19728][/media] [media-thumb=19729][/media-thumb]

I think Extrudr Green-Tec is the same stuff relabeled. Maybe you can find that instead in the USA? unsuccessful search :( I made contact with Biofila by e-mail and they were very likeable: "Cubicity and Matterhackers sell bioFila silk and bioFila linen in the US, but not bioFila plaTec. They didn’t even try plaTec L. bioFila plaTec is one of the best materials on the market. Easy to print like very good PLA, but with exceptional stability and heat resistance (up to 120”C). It shows performances better than any ABS, much easier to print AND it is biodegrable like the same part made out of wood. That means it takes not 1000 years for the degradation, it takes 10 to 15 years (if dropped out in nature)." I would like to have some... not by now unfortunately.

yeah, I wrote HT instead of XT-CF... my mistake I still in doubt about 3 of those 2: - Magnetic Iron PLA / Photopasta; - XT-CF20 / Colorfabb (+ stainless steel nozzle); - Stainless Steel PLA / Photopasta. Brassfill looks to soft. I confess I'm a little scared with the "easy of use" of semiflex so I quit For prevention I will also buy an i2k isulator and the TFC 255... (sended e-mail for gr5 a few minutes ago) Tomorrow is by deadline to purchase, damn!! I would like a week to search!!

Where to buy bioFila PlaTec in USA? Looks like a German filament... I'm trying to find a representative or e-shop. Seems that PrintedSolid, Matterhackers, 3Duniverse, Cubicity and Imakr don't have it :(

cool tips! So, I will forgot nGen and got PLA/PHA for now... and I will include those biofila PlaTec for high temperature. I have excellent results with XT Orange Dutch, I love them! I found the right temperature and speed for it... they looks fantastic for my eyes hehehe. I´m thinking to buy Aloy 910 forward, when my nylon bridge finish, I will focused in variety by now. I don't like ABS, I'm afraid with them because of warp but I would like to try especially the acetone bath tricky. For now, I just want to decide beetwin 2 of those 3 guys: - ColorFabb Brassfill; - ColorFabb HT Dark Gray (+nozzle); - NinjaFlex Semi; (Flex or semi-flex?) Is NinjaFlex filament complicated for bowden tube printers? I just read it in a review... Tomorrow will be the day of the purchase, any help will be welcome! Thank you guys! Cheers!!