fergazz

I thought exactly as @chrisw and I'm still using just one printer by now, is too risky I will keep my eyes on it, looks awesome the idea to have a "close to zero" weight on the printhead

Good to hear from someone of my city! Where in Rio do you live? I wrote a huge text that desapear when I hit "Post reply" :angry: I forgot to copy and save before hit it, this bug happened with me a lot during the last year, it's just frustrating sometimes/all the time. I will try to reply as fast as possible cause it's 4:30AM double check bed leveling Temperature looks ok but when I need better adhesion I heat first layer +5°C and then drop to normal temp (using Simplify3D) but I'm quite sure that you can set it manually at the gcode using Cura. @Neotko shows recently how to make a custom skirt/brim ears in Cura or Simplify3D in that topic... I'm not a big fun of brim but this one looks interesting. You can also increase first layer width on S3D, don't know if Cura has it cause I still using an old and stable version, 2.5X. I will definitly try the new Cura soon cause I feel that sometime I will came back to it... or to slic3r but this is for another post. Make sure that your enviroment is dry cause our city is to wet, don't know if is that the case but even my PLAs get worse after 2 summers. I'm monitoring the humidity along the last year and I note that in summer it goes until 85% and at winter around 50%. Make sure to use silica gel and sealed bags to store it, I bought 500g to prevent to get worse and to preserve my new ones.

I will upgrade my UM2 with Matheless Nano kit and Bondtech extruder. My doubts are beetwin 1.75mm or 2.85mm. Should be great change to 1.75mm (much easier to find those filaments around) but I need to clarify if the bowden guide will be tight enough and the drawnbacks to get a thinner filament just becase I never work with them. I supose to buy 2 printer soon with 1.75mm, maybe Raised3D and Prusa i3 mk3 (sorry Ultimaker, I need a bigger volume and unexpensive option under U$ 800, I'm sad about it), so it will be much easier to have one type of diameter in stock. Should be great make a change to 1.75mm but I need to clarify the drawnbacks: (1) Bondtech 1.75mm pushfit conector inside the adpter fits perfectly without any play? Is it easy to insert 4mm bowden tube all the way into the 6/4 bowden "tube guide"? Both together doesn't leave any gap or improve the friction of filaments during retraction on TFN couper? doc reference: pages 9 and 10 of BondTech Ultimaker Instalation Guide 1.75 v2.1 (2) 1.75mm will be easier to bend and get a fail print with flexibe filaments? (3) What about retraction value, what will change beetwin those settings? (4) More or less pressure than 2.85mm filaments? How it impact in speed settings? Considering that I will upgrade basic UM2 block and nozzle to Mathless Nano kit and race nozzles. Cheers!

Thank you @stu_le_brew I also thinking if I should buy a steel coupler v2 and/or Y2K to use with Mathless Nano kit for high temps filaments as 910 alloy Nylon from Taulman. Y2K I know that is important but don't know if it's compatible with Mathless Nano kit. The TFN is on my list by the way. And the steel couper v2 I don't know what kind of improvement it will give. In 3dsolex website it described: "Greatly improved spare part! Very handy to have lying around!" Maybe a stupid question but what it means?

Thank you for this consideration Which Mathless nozzle you are refering to... Race or RBS Jet? Anyone have a side by side comparition about those? Is there an alternative beetwin Stainless Steel and Sapphire/Ruby nozzles? I'm looking for a nozzle for Bronzefill, and maybe for other abrasive filaments but I will not be a hard level abrasive printer, I suppose

I lost my freight because the sellers from UK were slow to respond to my emails, so I have more time to think about this upgrade, the dowside is that it will cost much more for me :(shipping will add 80 euros to the cost When looking for things in the forum I found ZGE - Zero Gravity Extruder - upgrade from Gudo and Neotko, I will definitely try it. For those interested, follow this thread

Good to remember... I will start my smoothing tests next week! Have you ever test with PLATec from Biofila? I have PLA/PHA Pale Gold and the old blue Ultimaker that I heard you saying that is fenomenal. I will also order soon some transparent from Colorfabb... any colour recomended? True, it's massive! Can you update me how many shells (considering a 0.4mm nozzle) are indicated to get a satisfactory result? I'm not sure if it's at least 3x0.4mm ... and sorry for the laziness but I've been back a hundred times on the topic and I never know if I'm updated 8)

So many questions, sorry about that. Looking for the price at those stuffs, and keeping in mind that I will buy more printers soon, I probably will choose Matchless v3 as a heater block. - PTFE Bowden tube; - TFM; - 40W heater (to be prepared for new materials and bigger nozzles); - Temp sensor - I'm afraid to break it... those above are my priorities by the way... but I think that purchasing only those itens I'm far to avoid underextrusion and clogging issues. Titan extruder is trustfull? I mean, it will avoid feeder clicking problems and retraction issues? Or there is some other think to know about... I think BondTech should be the best solution but it's 3 times more expensive than Titan! Later I will check some nozzle possibilities. Cheers!

Cool stuff! I will definitly try it! I'm also following your channel on youtube since last week. Your accent is totally understandable, not a problem at all!! Keep doing those awesome work, specially S3D stuffs that are dificult to find tips for Ultimaker users, at my point of view

Hi there community, I'm looking for an upgrade for my UM2 but I'm not too familiar with those news facts and releses on the last year. My printer is running as it comes, I never upgrade or replace nothing by now, only keeping maintenance. Ultimaker reseller here is super overpriced and don't have much things. I'm thinking to bring these upgrade at the end of this month (july/2017), when my sister will be in London for a short trip. I just wanna know if there is on the market some good alternative to upgrade to avoid underextrusions for the entire life and for multiple nozzles propose. Actually I wanna print some abrasive filaments that I still have in stock but I'm really worry about use it for long prints, such as Nylon (Talmann Bridge), Bronzefill and I'm thinking to try Stellfill too and also be prepared for other filaments for mechanical propose and TPU as a plus. By the way, some stuffs of my wishlist: - TFM coupler - Temperature sensor - “Some slippery” Bowden tube. PTFE is really the best choice? - Heater 35W or 40W? - Should I buy steel coupler v2? - Metal nozzle for abrasive ( 0.4, 0.6, 0.8 ) Which one is reliable and easier to print? Bigger then 0.4 to print easier metal filaments? - Fast nozzles (0.4, 0.6, 0.8 and 1mm). Race, Jet any other? For heated head/block and feeder/extruder alternative I have to many things to clarify: - Matchless v3, nano or Olsson Block? - Extruder/feeder: Bendtech, Titan or UM2+? By the way my Runtime status is: on for: 764:13 Printing: 309:42 Mat: 165m 1/3 for personal projects and 2/3 business stuffs, growing day by day recently. Sorry about to much questions, any suggestion about spare parts and kits dealers near London (not restricted to the UK) will be welcome! I would like to have time to seach it properly but I need to buy it soon to deliverer on time. Cheers and many thanks!

@jonatanrullman Any news? I also interested to know about it. Also I would like to know what is the diference beetwin v3 and Nano and which is the max temperatura with... Matchless v3 http://3dsolex.com/product/matchless-v3-block/ Matchless nano http://3dsolex.com/product/matchless-nano/

I found a PowR video on youtube. It's probably not the best method to prove resistance but note the subtitle: "Our brand new material bioFila PowR, with a softening temperature of about 140°C". It means that the extruder temperature is 140? Or it's heat resistent until 140 degrees? Looks like a little soft like some flexible filaments... just supposing because of the end of the video... I hope it's easy to print

Delamination after boiling? I never noticed delamination here, but I never boiled too. Edit: I'm actually using this filament to print bones for cirurgical planning, the milky colour looks perfect for it, with no pos-production or machanical properties needed for now. But I will try to make some parts for drones, specially with this PowR one. By the way my settings to 0.1mm for PLATec with S3D are: first layer 204°C, 200% high and 140% width, no fan other layers 199°C, full fan sometimes I use 0% fan for the first layer... 40%fan, 60%, 80% and 100% at 20th layer

What you mean with inconsistent flow? I note some gaps on layers twice... like some underextrusion dots that made my thin parts weak. But it was in the middle of the object even with low speed of 25-30mm/s at 0.07mm. I was thinking that it maybe occurs becase of the alternative spoon holder (I'm using this one designed to Taulman spoon) without bearings, considering that the inner hole has a recicled paper and it may cause more friction. I cannot live without irobert low friction spoon holder... the wider hole of the new spoon is a big improvement to me. hahahaha... thanks for the tip!

I'm making some tests with this filament since january/17 and I love it! It provides a beautiful touch/finish (less post-production), excellent heat tolerance and prints overhangs with angles up to 70 degrees with 0.1mm layer high, in my tests. It can be boiled to get better mechanical resistance. Just warping a bit some small parts but good bed adhesion with glue and spray. I used 3/4 of the 750g spoon. I will ordering as soon as possible more PLA Tec to my business and I got some good news from the manufacturer that the inner diameter of the spoon hole has been raised to the standard size (50mm), actually a little larger than Ultimaker and ColorFabb, and now they are making new colors available for PLA Tec - JET (like a deep black); - SUN (yellow), and soon: - OCEAN (blue), - SNOW (white); - FRESH (green); - XOCO (brown); Red and Black for PowR, the brand new filament from twoBEars: I actually would like to know the diference beetwin Linen and PLATec, I got in doubt if I get Linen to. For PowR I will order one roll to make some tests and I will post a topic for this... @avogra and @foehnsturm tested these PowR or Linen?

you were right @gr5 it happened probably because I setted ABS as material. I just didn't understood why Simplify3d doesn't overrighted this predefinition. Printer is working beautifully after going out of home for the first time I was scarried cause streets here have a lot of holes and imperfections but it's all good. I also put a belt on my UM2 to hold properlly Just to know, I demonstrate Cura uploading stl files but I used Simplify 3D via USB cause my profiles are updated on that. Cheers for the tough printer users!

A day before i printed XT and it's possible that I set printer to ABS, I will check if this is the problem. At the event I used Simplify3d and I think that software overright UM2 definitions... I'm actually scarry to turn on it but I will do it tonight

@gr5 do you have it in your store? Do you ship to Brazil? If possible I would like to get other stuffs, like olsson block, metal nozzles, slipery bowder tube and others upgrades. The event was realised at consul's house, there was an electrical outlet with 220V and I asked for an employee of the house if there was a 110V electrical outlet, so the employee point me for another one close to this. Should this issue can be caused by higher voltage? Is UM2 bi-volt?

Hi there, as far I know strings usually happens on thin walls, specially with layes that don't have time to cold properlly. If you lay down speed (as it happened on the outer perimeter) it will avoid this issue... other solution should be lay down temperature a little bit, like -2°C. And a third solution is set minimum layer time to more than is setted, for exemple, if it is setted to 10 seconds put it to 15 seconds... but keep in mind that it will make your time print longer. As our friend said above you can print vases using spiralize on advanced page. If your nozzle is 0.4mm you can set the wall (yeah, just one wall) to a bit wider, like 0.6mm, and the printer will flow more plastic to do it. To make an object without top layers just set top layers to 0, make sure to use infill 0% or you will see infill traces on the inside. For more information take a look at this awesome guide to prevent a lot of issues: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

Hi there Ultimaker community! Yesterday my Ultimaker 2 went to an event, KingsDay at Dutch Consulate. When I setup my profile, bed to 60°C, temperature goes to 100°C to start to heat nozzle temp, and waits like 10 min to start the print. What issue happened here, is the temperature sensor damaged? If yes, where should I buy it? By the way, event was awesome, everything was ok except it. I divulge Colorfabb filaments and, of course, Ultimaker printers and filaments

Hey guys, @Neotko , @Owen , @nilrog , thanks for that! I just finishing this work, 150 objects, and they have a large share in the success of this project After almost 26 profiles tested for 3 filaments: Ultimaker Blue, Colorfabb XT Orange Dutch and Colorfabb Pale Gold (finished :angry:) I'm finally done this job that I will present tomorrow at KingsDay Party By the way I got a Kicks Ass profile for the Blue PLA by Ultimaker. Nice to print sequencelly with no strings, please note Retraction distance beetwin 5,5 and 6mm. Found an awesome balance of those experiences: [/media-thumb]

Hi fergazz These are my settings that I used the other day with good results. Bear in mind I have UM2+ and had my extrusion multiplier set to 0.95 instead of 1. Also I was only printing at 30mm/s. You could see if these settings work for you and then add more temperature and speed as desired. Owen Thank you so much, appreciate it Looks nice! Just don't know how to import this code for Simplify3D... How dumb am I? I thinked that it was shered as .FFF And... is that for colored XT? I read that translucid XT have diferent settings, is it true? I know that UM+2 has some improvements over UM2... improved feeder, bigger voltage... there are other thinks to keep in mind? Like, set to a lower travel speed or someting? Today was a terrible day here, I had 2 fail prints (12 stuffs)... windows updated automatically and restarted, I just note it on the second one as it happened when I was in front of PC :angry: ... I lost 12hs and now I'm printing with SD card to make sure it will not happen again. At least I already have 119 of 150 but I lose time and material DAAAAMNNNNNN. I also lose a time lapse video that I was making for those. A day to forgot...

After 3 prints I still improving my XT profile... keep in mind that I'm using 0.4 nozzle size, bed 70°C and 0.15 resolution. First test: I'm printing multiple objects, so I tryed 40mm/s and 255°C to avoid underextrusion but, for this thin 3d object, cause me a lot of strings in my first try and cause me a lot of pos-processing work. Fan 50% at layer 110 and Wipe 1,00. Second test: So I reduced temperature to 252°C with 45mm/s speed, no fan and wipe 0,80 - just an experience to check if the letters comes printed better. Less strings here. Third test: Temp 250°C with 50mm/s, wipe 0,50, no fan. Here (and above) I note some burned dots and also some warping on curved top layers... on travel moviment sometimes the nozzle hit on layers. Next: Temp 250°C with 50mm/s, wipe 0,50 and no fan. Created a process 2 to for buildings and increased speed to 52,5mm/s and add a Retraction Vertical Lift of 0,30mm to avoid nozzle to hit warped top layers and maybe stop with burned dots, don't know if it's gonna work. I will keep them informed. Created a third process for the top of buildings with 0.1 resolution, 45mm/s and 248°C and 30% fan. Theeeere we go! Note: first layers still getting low flow in some areas. I relocated those objects to avoid the front right part of the bed but this issue continuos... it don't ruined my print but it leaves an ugly first layer... I also note some old prints with XT with those same issues. What is the problem here? Friction inside bowder tube or feeder problem? I still with the standart UM2 feeder, printed iRobert+Geek feeder don't assembly yet... this is going to fix the problem?

260 for first layer (and them 255) and 0,50mm for wipe. Only retract when crossing open space Force retraction between layers Minimum travel for retraction 0,50 Avoid crossing outline for travel movements Let's see. I don't have time to make a temperature test.. so... I will try to fine tune after or manually. First try just 2 of them, like 10g of material ------ x ----- Ok, I'm on a 3rd layer now. for PLA I printed with 2 shells (2x0.4) for XT I increase for 3 shells as people recomended in this topic shared by Netko. The right front object doesn't get to much flow on the back, maybe is the bowder tube issue? Like underextrude just on the "back tail" area. I cannot upload a video here and don't took photos, sorry.

Perfect, really nice help! I will start to deal with XT right now! And I will keep them informed. In my first try will be: 0.15 layer, 255°C, 70°C bed, 45mm/s, no fan (I will keep on alert to set it to 50% up to buildings base, like when windows starts to print