fergazz

Anyone planning to go to MRRF Midwest RepRap Festival 2018 on 23-25th March? What is MRRF? "It's the worlds largest celebration of open source 3D printing with over 1,000 people from around the globe attending in 2017. If you are a hobbyists, enthusiast or any level of user of 3D printing then come on out and enjoy the weekend with others. Not sure what 3D printing is or want to learn more about it? Perfect! Come out and see what it's all about. Free Attendee tickets are good for anyone wanting to come and attend. As a registered attendee, you can come walk around and hang out, or if you'd like you can set up on a table and display your 3d printing related projects. Tables are first come first serve so try and get there early if you would like to have your choice of area to set up. Sponsorship opportunities for #mrrf2018 will be posted as soon as they become available. If you are interested in sponsoring this event, please email info@midwestreprapfest.org"

hummm... 10 microns is an awesome accuracy! I think that Ultimaker should considerer test glass-ceramic. Mine is suuuper flat, I'm loving it!! I can take it straight from the bed to the refrigerator or freezer without deform over the time (as advertised), it's cool and not overpriced for the final consumer... at least in my country! @neotko created this topic a year ago, starting the discutions: A better Bed Glass - Neoceram Glass

it was @nilrog he said: "The only thing I have noticed with greentec is that the filament diameter on the spools I got is not so consistent and on at least one spool it exceeded the tolerance they stated. It is not as consistent as the ColorFabb filaments I have. But it still prints great"

Nice! A need to change my teflon couper cause I'm getting much more underextrusion nowadays :/ Just for comparision I set my natural color PLATec filament from Biofila, that are very similar with GreenTec from Extrudr, with a bit more temperature comparing to colorfabb pla/pha. I add just 2 degrees and it works pretty good! Make sure to double check diameter of GreenTec cause someone in PLATec topic says that found incosistency diameter in that GreenTec filament.

Capricorn bowden tube sales manager just send me an e-mail: "Yes, we are working hard on getting our XS tubing released for 2.85mm printers. Due to testing multiple XS sizes, to determine the best size. the release date got delayed. We're now planning to have it released early March. We're planning to have it as ID:3.2mm OD: 6.35mm " hummm, looks cool, just the right ID / OD size of my UM2 bowden tube!

Sorry for the late reply, vacation period The blue dark bowden tube from Capricorn, named as XS premium, are made with PTFE and a misterious lubricity additive mixture. This technical specifications is related to the 1.75mm but I heard that they already made some 2.85mm. I will double check this information with sales department.

I'm quite curious to try Capricorn bowden tube, the dark blue one, seems to be very slippery... JAMN approved it.

Hi, i cannot see the picture, maybe because I'm using the mobile version, but when the nozzle dip some amond of filament it caled stringing or it can leave some blobs on wall surface... you can setup a higher retraction distance (if it set as 4.5mm try 4.8mm) to avoid it or print with lower temperature (try decrease 2 or 3 degrees). Try temp first. XT is trickier to avoid stringing than PLA. Cura is an awesome slicer but for advanced stuffs you should take a look to Simplify3D, it's more editable but it came for a price of 150 bucks. I still using Cura for some prints, it depends how the model looks like. To fit stuffs you should make some tests with small pieces to don't loose to much filament but it's usually -0.1mm male and +0.1mm female. If you desing the holes using boolean (equal for male and female) you can adjust using Cura or Simplify3d "horizontal size offset" or something like that... set it for -0.2mm and be happy . Again, make some test to set up correctly because it can vary beetwin printers. I hope it helps!

That's a good new! I will seach more about meduza upgrade, thanks for that!

I tryed to buy Bondtech feeder with 3dsolex block, nozzles, PTFE couper, 40W heater, temp sensor and bowden tube but Carl stopped to ship stuffs to Brazil recently. I'm having a bad time to upgrade and got my spare parts to keep my UM2 working properly. The official Ultimaker reseller in my country is offering this UM2+ upgrade for 1.348,77 dolars (R$ 4.397,00 Reais). For reference bowden tube is 91,72 dolars. At black friday they offer a 5% discount that doesn't help to much. It's not viable. I can buy a Prusa mk3 and lot's of filaments with this amound of money. Maybe a solution should be sell my UM2 and trip to USA or Europe to buy an UM2+ but someone will have the same problems as I and it's not fair. At least I can bring the spare parts to the new owner :/

My tip, find some industrial glass association in your country and ask them about a reseller of ceramic glass. That's how I found it after almost a month of search

Where did you find it?

Take a look at: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/22649-neosanding-automatic-layer-sanding Neosanding was a @neotko creation, incorparate by Cura 2.7 named as Ironing. Cool stuff! I will give it a try, my friend got some awesome results using S3D and Prusa mk2.

a faster and bigger volume option; direct drive or bondtech feeder; enclosured; open-source since the beggining; no micro stepping; lasers and sensors everywhere... 8)

It was R$ 77 reais (U$ 23,50 or E$ 20,10 Euros) cutted with c-shape grind profile and 5mm radius on corners. The problem was shipping condition/cost, half of the glass price. Sure @neotko I will keep them informed about my tests. Oh yeah, Misumi is always a reference of high quality stuffs... I even didn't know that they produce glass. Cool!

For ABS an enclosure is a good deal to avoid warping and maintain the warm temperature with little variation. Keep in mind that the corners of the glass plate are always with lower temperatures as the center... in this topic (look at @tmostad posts) you can find some pics with a thermal camera of the glass plate with the heat variation on surface. I'm not a ABS user but I think that 90°C is enough to print with it.

Sure @lordhell, (are you Eduardo?) VIDRAK VISORES DE VIDRO INDUSTRIAIS email: vendas@vidrak.com.br I order one Nextrema last week, it's camming Looks like Nextrema is more quimical resistence them Robax, but I don't know if we have some advantage for this. It can handle up to 950°C thermal resistence and shock resistance of 700-820°C. Nextrema transparency also alows for some inovating infrared heating functionalities Schott Brazil tell me that they import a full-size glass, so they can't garantee this 0.3% of diagonal (for under 300mm size) because the glass plate is much bigger and can be cutted on diferent areas (?). But It should be much better than others glasses as mentioned here.

Which glass comes in UM2? Is it temperate, borosilicate or other?

Schott Brazil replied my e-mail with some informations. Comparision of coefficient of expansion: Tempered: 6.0x10^-6 Borosilicate: 3,3x10^-6 Neoceram: 0.6x10^-6 (close to zero) Thermal shock: Tempered: 270°C Borosilicate: 360°C Neoceram: 760°C edit: The color variation in Robax and Nextrema are related to the transmission of UV and IR radiation, due to the oxides that compose the glass ceramic, but this does not interfere in the performance of the product nor in the heat transfer They also told me that glass is monolithic and does not suffer delamination because it is a single block, but I think this does not refer only to the Nextrema or Robax, the borosilicate also, I was in doubt if the temperate is monolithic too, it was not clear . About diagonal flatness they have not answered me yet.

You can filter by printer or material in 3dhubs to get a more realistic competition. Nowadays people can buy a printer with 99-199 bucks and use the chepest possible filament, it's hard to compete in price. By the way 3dHubs are turning to a plataform for industrial printers, they are changing the focus as far as I know. My hub is the more expensive in my city, sometimes people find me in 3dHubs and goes to my site, because of that I still with my account there.

I've came from creative area so it was a chalenge for me either and still is I think that a good start point is know your operational cost per month. You also need to calculate how long you want to refund your investiments and dilute this value for a certain period, one or two years, something like that. You should check how much your competitors charge and 3dhubs can indicate it to you. I would like to have a spreadsheet with all my filaments, resolutions and costs, I will make it just need to find someone with skills (my bastard brother-in-law) to help me ... but basically I have a setup cost to fix the STL, when possible, and to slice parameters (I´m using Simplify3d so sometimes it's quite a hard work with multiple profiles). An then I add my resolution cost. Normally I use 0.1mm as a standart resolution that I work 60% of the time. For 0.2 resolution I gave a "20% discount" and for 0.06-0.07mm I increase by 20% with no count just market perception. With my operational cost and filament cost (UM PLA from BR UM reseller is U$115) my 0.1 resolution is relative of 7 or 8 times filament cost of a print. I really wanna introduce a parameter of retractions cause if the print retracts a lot it is propense to fail such as underextrusion so it can cost more or it can take longer to finish with lower speeds and higher temps. Equipament degradetion should count to, higher temps burns coupler and abrasive filaments kill your brass nozzles. Post processing is also tricky to define but I include a basic sanding and for priming, painting, wax coating and smoothing services I add more bucks. Since I started to print with variable layer high it's harder to setup the cost, I need to calculate for exemple: 35% at 0.2mm; 40% at 0.1mm and 25% 0.07mm. I really would like to automate it. It's good to be transparency with the costs to get loyal customers. I hope that helps and I will keep my eyes on this topic to learn more about it 8)

OMG, opaque white also looks great for Ultimaker enviroment

My glass vary beetwin 3.98 to 3.85mm... most of the time it works fine but I would like to get a replacement one and maybe try a hardcore cooling with those ceramic glass. I found a local SCHOTT reseler but they don't have the ROBAX, only NEXTREMA glass-ceramic that also looks great! Anyone have tryed this one? It's cheaper than Borosilicate glass, converting to US dolars it's 20 bucks. Tolerance looks the same as related on specs: Thickness t = 4.0mm Tolerance ± 0.2 mm An importante spec is not listed, Flatness along the diagonal. I sended an e-mail to ask about it for 4mm thickness. Nextrema specs and promotional video It has 6 colour, the blue gray and opaque grey looks great! Properties vary a little beetwin those. The reseller only have the transparent one. :(

some good tips above @Clancey, could you fill your profile with the printer model that you have? For addons or replacement parts it will help. Depending which heater you have you can replace for a higher voltage one, it will warm up quicly. Community can point you a trustfull dealer. Edit: Ooops, for build plate I don't know if we can change heater, for the heated block I have sure that we can.

It's happening with other colors or just with the black filament? The temperature may vary slightly between colors of the same material even from the same manufacturer. For my black PLA from Ultimaker I use +3°C comparing with my normal PLA profile (blue, natural and Colorfabb PLA/PHA pale gold). Some users goes up to +5°C with the black ones, you should play around to make sure if it's a temp issue. If you guys share the gcode people here can take a look if a slicing ajustment is needed Can you messure the gap or took some photos? Which slicer are you using? Which version?