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Posts posted by tinkergnome

  1. 8 hours ago, Arwen said:

    I know it will want an E-step value of 415, but I don't know how to get that into the machine.


    That's easy:

    • install pronterface (or any other software with a serial console)
    • connect via USB cable, COM port depends on your operating system, baudrate is 250000
    • use the pronterface console to send two gcode commands to the printer:
      M92 E415  ;set e-steps
      M500      ;save settings


    more about pronterface:



    or - even easier:

    • put the two lines from above in a (plain) text file
    • save the file on sd-card as "esteps.gcode"
    • "print" the file as any other gcode-file


    Check the Marlin firmware 1.0 documentation for more details about specific gcode commands.


    The use of a more powerful heater needs perhaps some tweaking of the PID values. I think there is a menu option on the printer to change these values (if needed).

    Default values of the UM2+ are here:



    • Thanks 1
  2. 7 hours ago, Valkrider said:

    Can you explain what you mean by "both models are broken" please?


    I quote myself:


    On 12/1/2020 at 9:21 PM, tinkergnome said:

    Nothing more than a few thousand "flying" triangles that are not connected.


    That's the opposite of a manifold geometry.

    You can load the stl files in Meshmixer (e.g.- like i did above) and it will show all mesh errors in different colors.


    Why is a manifold mesh important?


  3. 10 hours ago, fritzi said:

    Also könnte es an MESHMIXER liegen?


    Was genau änderst Du denn in Meshmixer, und wie?

    Die Antwort von @zerspaner_gerd hat Du gelesen?


    23 hours ago, zerspaner_gerd said:

    Wenn man was aufschneidet muss man es auch wieder an den Schnitten verschließen sodass ein geschlossenes Volumen entsteht.



    Du ich nun doch selbst gesucht habe, hier noch der Link für alle anderen:



  4. 11 hours ago, Valkrider said:

    The wall is not razor sharp at the tip it is flat with a wall thickness of 0.8mm and a hole in the top of 1.9mm.


    This may be valid for the larger one.

    There's a sharp edge on the tip of the smaller cone.


    Anyway - both models are broken and therefore results of slicers are unpredictable.

    If you don't have seen it yet - here is a comprehensive tutorial about preparing models with FreeCAD:





  5. 9 hours ago, 7hatGuy said:

    Are these just not there or am I not looking in the correct spot?


    It depends... 🙂 Which printer definition is selected?


    Printers of the UM2-series use the material settings that are configured on the printer itself (by default).

    You have to change the GCode-Flavor to "Marlin" if you want to have full control about this with Cura. It's in the Cura machine settings.


    Be aware that there are settings for maximum feedrate. If you want to go higher than 45mm/s for retraction speed you have to increase the maximum allowed value first (printer maintenance menu -> "Motion settings")


    Good luck!


  6. 3 hours ago, ACCSisko said:

    Ich bin mir bei den 0,5 in der Mitte nicht sicher, leider meldet sich der User nicht, der mir die Werte geschrieben hat.


    Die Frage ist doch erst ein paar Stunden alt....? Lass dem George mal noch ein bisschen Zeit, schließlich ist der in einer ganz anderen Zeitzone.



    Die Standardwerte für den UM2+ (35W) stehen hier:



    Ich bin mit den folgenden Werten ganz zufrieden (35W), aber perfekt ist das wahrscheinlich auch noch nicht:

    p:12.00 i:0.75 d:75.00


    Ich glaube, Heizwiderstände sind auch nicht alle präzise 35W (auch wenn sie als solche verkauft werden). Da gibt es durchaus Schwankungen. D.h. die genannten PID-Parameter sind eh' immer nur ungefähre Richtwerte.


    • Thanks 1
  7. 10 hours ago, BPerry2020 said:

    I had already installed the beta from 3Dconnexion for Big Sur.


    The crucial point is that RawMouse does not use the 3DConnexion driver at all.


    In contrary (from https://github.com/smartavionics/RawMouse/blob/master/README.md😞


    "On systems that have an existing driver installed, you may need to disable that driver so that RawMouse can gain access to the device."


    Dunno, if libspnav library is mandatory or optional on MacOS?



  8. 3 hours ago, Smithy said:

    Ich bin von Natur aus faul und habe Octoprint auch bei einem Drucker im Einsatz der direkt neben mir steht 🙂 


    Mooooooment! Das hat ja wohl nix mit Faulheit zu tun. Nur mit Zuverlässigkeit!


    * SD-Karten (und -Leser) sind empfindlich, zerbrechlich und verschleissen mit der Zeit.

    * Nur ein WLAN-Kabel hält ewig...(genau wie der UM2)! 🙂


    • Like 1
  9. 4 hours ago, ultimaker_user said:

    Is the correct procedure is that I have to first create a profile and give it a name.


    Sure. There's nothing to export if nothing is created. Default profiles can not be exported AFAIK - those are read-only.

    ...and once a custom profile is created you simply select it from the list (if you want to use it for a print).


    I think "Create profile from current settings" is all what you're looking for, the export function is a whole different topic.


    All you need is in this dropdown menu:



  10. 8 hours ago, ultimaker_user said:

    I am trying to store the settings I have been tweaking for days so that I can use it for different STL files. I read that I can do that by exporting profile.


    Exporting is only handy if you want to use it as a file for backup or if you want to import it into a different Cura installation (AFAIK).

    Anyway: The "Cura Profile Writer" has to be enabled, not (only) the reader. And according to the manual there's an "Activate" step to do first (this will enable the "Export" button).




  11. 4 hours ago, zhutwo said:

    This causes both extruders to be set at 200C


    Which firmware is used by this printer?

    Is it added as a custom printer in Cura? And which gcode-Flavor is used?


    M104 (without any T-parameter) sets the temperature for the active hotend only (at least in Marlin firmware). So your example command from above is totally fine for this purpose.

    See documentation for M104 here: https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M104.html


    If your printer behaves different i would consider this as a (severe) firmware bug.


  12. 13 hours ago, xiragde said:

    i have attached the stl file if anyone can explain what i need to do


    It would be easier with the actual .blend file...

    But the main problem are a lot of intersecting faces in the resulting stl file.


    It's a bit guesswork... it seems like the two inner divisions are separate cubes that are crossing each other and are touching (but not connected to) the outer walls. This will not work for 3D printing because it results in intersections and overlapping geometry.

    The whole piece is needed to be a single, manifold geometry. Don't stitch together separate parts in this way. Start with a single cube. Use only "scale", "loop cut" and "extrude" and you will get a box with a mesh topology that is perfectly suited for printing. Merge duplicate vertices before exporting - just to be sure.


    Something like this:


    Step 1 (loop cuts):





    Step 2 (extrude):



  13. 7 hours ago, assafp said:

    Any other advice?


    Did you read the article about "manifold geometry"?

    You have to model an object that can exist in the physical world. Walls without thickness do not exists and are not magically generated. You have to model them.

    It doesn't matter how you do this. Extrude the faces, use insets, close the geometry - whatever works for the given task. 🤷‍♂️

    The solidify modifier can't repair a broken topology.


    It's possible with Blender - there are lots of tutorials on youtube about proper hard surface modeling for 3D printing, the importance of good mesh topology and so on. If you have fun with it - do it,  stick with it.


    An example:



    But Blender is for sure not the best tool for this task and you will have a hard time in the beginning.

    You can have a much easier start with 3D printing if you use a 3D-CAD program instead. There are even free ones.

    A lot is possible - and you have choices... i'm just saying..🙂


    • Like 1
  14. 1 hour ago, zerspaner_gerd said:

    Wenn aber zwischen zeitlich ein neues Board eingebaut wurde stimmt das alter/Laufzeit der Hardware Bauteile so und so nicht mehr über ein


    Das muss hier nicht der Fall sein, aber zur Sicherheit ist ausserdem zu bedenken:

    Die Summen unter "Printing" zählen nur für Drucke von der SD-Karte.

    Wenn der Drucker über USB angesteuert wird (z.B. mit OctoPrint), dann zählt das nicht mit. Die Statistik wird dann (z.B.) in OctoPrint geführt - aber das nützt Dir ja nix...


    Mehr als ein grober Anhaltspunkt ist diese Statistik eh' nicht. Man kann sowas auch in weniger als 100 Stunden kaputt spielen, in anderen Fällen ist alles nach 5.000 Stunden noch so gut wie neu...


    Was ist denn mit dem Extruder passiert? Warum musst Du den zerlegen?


  15. The yellow buttons are just the three extruders. That should be fine.

    The tools on the left side are all plugins. First step is: click on "Marketplace" (upper right corner) and check if the "Scale Tool"-plugin is installed and activated (!).


    • Like 2
  16. 3 minutes ago, Juliogdiana said:

    Also I have installed the e3d board that supposed read the pt100 from head and send reading to the board





    The e3d amplifier board is based on the circuit design of the Ultimainboard V2 controller (according to their documentation).


    Dunno, but i can imagine that there's a pullup resistor for the old thermistor on the arduino shield. If so, the resistor needs to be removed or bridged first.


  17. 6 hours ago, assafp said:

    I've looked at every forum thread I could and made all the recommended changes and still the problem persists. Thanks in advance for the help, I'm 1 week into 3d printing.




    This are only faces with zero volume.

    The crux is: a non-manifold geometry can not be printed. Most slicers try it anyways, but the result is usually not what you expect. Some hints:



    Designing for "real world things" is very different from the "just for visualization" - approach.

    If you design functional parts a good CAD program would be the better choice (as @geert_2 said).


    For this simple example you can either:

    - in Blender: close the top and the bottom with faces and in Cura: set top and bottom thickness to zero and choose a reasonable wall thickness


    - use the "Solidify" modifier in Blender and define the thickness of the outer wall this way





    There's a builtin add-on in Blender called "3D Print Toolbox". It can check models for several error types.




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