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Everything posted by cloakfiend

  1. Here you go, like I said not much happed after the 1st hour, but I left it in anyways.... some close ups as well. 4 seconds of action spread out over 1.30 lol. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=heCkyfcGW8c Not sure how to embed a video here anymore, is the option gone?
  2. Doing another one now but every 4 seconds and added some salty ammonia in a few spots hopefully bringing some blue about adding to the green. Also shot in video mode as the aperture in photo mode isnt consistent and has that stopmotiony flicker that annoys me. Also the shutter is so violent that it shakes the camera creating a tiny wobble on each frame. Annoying but a touch of stabilisation should sort that..... getting loads of crashes trying to stabilise 5K footage on my crappy macbook air!.....oh dear. long crash logs almost there!! did a few
  3. Sadly it failed. Have no idea why. I need to hit up some time lapse forums. Instead of 14000 photos. I have 1 folder of 0001-2170 and another folder of 8999-9999 so upset and gutted. It would have looked so cool. Either way ill speed up what I got but the magic happens at the start. Last frame. I don't even have the first..... what a dumb system. I've been f-ing and blinding for the past 30 mins. So annoyed. Oh well. Bugger.... Hold up... its weird... I actually think I have it somehow? But 1 photo every 15 secs is 4 per min and thats 240 per hou
  4. Ok in progress. Probably out of focus now because I was rushing as it starts rusting immidiately and with the timervactivated i cant refocus. Will need to make some hidden placeholders to be able to pop it back in the right place easily... living and learning... To tell the truth i dont think more time will change anything but i may add some acid on by brush to even the green but still debating. Will sand it after lightly to highlight the raised areas in copper.
  5. A good example of a patina is the green coating on the originally copper statue of liberty. Its the 'rust'. But it also protects the copper. You can accelerate it to film which is what i will try tomorrow. I just need to make space for about 14000 photos on my sd card. Gonna take a photo every 15seconds. My avatar is also a patina. It can be faked with paint, created with heat (obvs no good for plated pla!) And created with acids and chemicals. Spray and be amazed. Very easy to get great results even though you cant always predict what youll get.
  6. Doing my first time lapse patina on an old print! So excited! Shame I have to wait a few days to do it as the darn camera is too frickin loud at night with its clicks as the gopro is a nogo. I can hear the clicks at night and they keep me awake! So I cant do more than 14hr timelapse. Quality on that gopro thing sucks! Only good for filming accidents on the road! My high tech setup. 1 Cannon eos d60 or 60d cant remember, 1 timer, 1 room light, 2 lamps with warm led bulbs 4 rubble bags to cover the windows and some masking tape. 1 old ipad 2 for the model to sit on, random black folder as b
  7. Sup! Welcome dude! Ask away!
  8. Haha @AndersK yes transparent CF has lots of awesome properties. Kinda looks like an sss shader. Also under some lighting conditions you can get a weird hologram effect where by you can flip between seeing either side really quickly. Looks odd on video, its just the light reflecting and passing through alternating very quickly with just a slight rotation. Ok. Enough rambling about my observations.
  9. Is that a face hugger type thing? .. and yeah i woke up! Lol. Somehow. Throat still hurts though. Gonna wear a mask from now on. That room is too toxic to enter atm.
  10. Talking about copper plating... just did my door knocker today!!! Fresh solution which is why its so shiny! Lots of photos for the curious. This was from a scan i made from photos on a trip to barcelona. No real cleanup.will age it. Will look much better then all green and rustic. Just used a nail off my pin head and dremmeled the top off. No tutorials from me im afraid. Not yet. I havent seen any complete ones online, it takes many stages. ...i just read what i wrote and it doesnt make any sense. Its late and im tired and probably poisoned a bit. This plating solution is no
  11. Nice! ...and kitties too!!! Could you do a close up? And i pretty much always print colorfabb 0.06 default temps on s5 now usually 185-195 on my um2. Bespoke wing support default tenticles support at 13%. Three shell 1.2 mm .4 nozzle 2 fast 70mms inner walls 1 outer at 30mm. Hollow. Then a hot knife to cut thruough the support and needle pliers the rest. Then a dremmel to smooth it out and a sand once over and then into the acetone and then touch up sanding here and there and then painting. Done.
  12. Meow, Hail Cathulhu! Lolz for a friend. Very happy with this print, didnt spent long cleaning it up either!
  13. Ok painted it. Friend wanted it too much.
  14. Just curious but how much are these scanners? I really hate it when prices aren't included on the websites. It reminds me of expensive gym memberships. You have to directly enquire.
  15. Not at the moment, but I will probably start a patreon soon sharing most if not all of my sculpts, as Im getting a lot of requests. This dog and a few others keep cropping up. Stay posted. I haven't sculpted or drawn in a while and miss it tremendously! Thats my weekend sorted!
  16. just print solid and you'll be fine. Edit.... Should be fine. Lol. If the plate is even thicker, then it may not wobble but it will corrode over time. Here is a dog i made ages ago... it was perfect at the time but seeing as i drilled holes in it which i then filled with plaster and sealed with filler, the acid clearly got in through the filler hole. Regardless of it being covered with superglue afterwards. The main trouble is that any break in the pla will let in liquid from the plating tank. Ive stopped using filler completely and dont get this problem at all. It only happened this once
  17. Its not so much the acid, but moisture of ANY kind. The problem is worse when you seal the object after having polished it already with something like say micro crystaline wax. The raw metal is the issue. I love patinas. But bubbling is a nono. No one wants layer separation. And as for the setup its the usaual anode cathode setup routine. If i go any deeper than that then i fall into the endless trap of having to explain every step which i dont even understand all of myself. Just look up the copper face machine and thats my basic setup. Ive butchered mine to oblivion by now. All that remains i
  18. Well after a successful day of plating, I learnt many valuable lessons about the nature of PLA and plating, and rapid oxidisation. And when I say rapid, I mean like you can see these things rust before your very eyes. In fact they begin corroding as soon as you take them out of the plating tank. You need to keep some distilled water handy to rinse them immidiately. But the main issue it preventing the acid from entering the model, even a drop of it can ruin the model. This is why models treated with acetone work so well. The acetone seals the PLA making it water tight which otherwise is open t
  19. This job was one of learning, and all the coins I ended up making destroyed themselves to a certain extent due to unforseen circumstances. Thats the trouble with plating 3D objects. Sealing the object and keepin it detailed at the same time. PLA unfortunately is not watertight. I printed with a bit hollow in the center. Big mistake! as I haven't acetoned these they absorbed a small amount of acid through pourous areas of the PLA and tiny holes in the corners of gaps, and after plating slowly this trapped the corrosive liquid inside corroded between the layers, sparating the metal coating fron
  20. Here no support at all. I didnt realise id made the outer ring larger and forgot to increase the support. Totally pointless but still worked!. Looking here i think ive got a 5 line brim which is my standard. So damn shiny this one!
  21. To be honest they came out perfect on the s5 but poorly on my um2 but that was with a different filament so not fair comparison. Only one nozzle no support no pva. No acetone. Just did some with acetone in selected parts now because otherwise it ruins the detaiks too much. Ill post more pics. But in my honest opinion, and much testing and practice, all you need for 99% of support on vertical pieces is a single or dual or triple.... .4 / .6 line underneath. Its just the most efficient way of doing it. Cura should include it as an option. Obvs depending on the width of the over hang of course! W
  22. Heres a 'coin' i made for a friend. Took bloody ages. Still got 14 more to do.... havent plated in ages. I already messed one up need to re-learn or familiarise. But my kit is dying next one aint shiny lol. Need to hand polish.! Printed vertically For the curious...
  23. Nice flower things. I was thinking of doing that all over my house with gargoyles and all but never got round to it!
  24. Nevermind its was cura 3.4 actually. It was under print thin walls. I guess its default for the s5? For the first time ever im seeing the s5 outperform my um2 quality wise? Not speedwise though! Lol. Could just be the yellow filament is crappy though. S5 gets nothing but tr red for quality jobs. I just ruined 12 printed coins that took 40 hours to print. So annoyed with myself. I knew the tiny details would be destroyed with acetone!!!! Oh well now i know for sure. Will post my results when and if i ever finish this commision!
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