cloakfiend
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Posts posted by cloakfiend
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And its very easy to clean off as well, just use fairy washing up liquid (or maybe any washing up liquid?), let it sit for a minute or two and its just wipes right off with water no effort just a bit of repeated light wiping. also apparently print with brim. I dont print ABS anymore so im not that well versed, but it worked for me when i did.
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you make it. from acetone and ABS filament. Its the only way it will stick. Google it. but dont make it too thin or too thick. it needs to be runny and waterlike when you are applying it. everyone has different methods of applying it. i just pour it on a tissue and rub it on the glass tring not to overlap the last bit so no buliding up any layers.
P.S. you want to be able to see a hint of the colour of the abs you are thinning in the juice when you wipe it on the glass, otherwise its to thin.
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Glue doesnt work with ABS, you need to use ABS juice. and apply it cold. and the glass should be cold too. I mean stone cold not warm, otherwise the bond is not strong enough due to the juice not hardening enough before its re-heated during printing.
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I have no issues with curved filament in my bowden tube, but then again i always cut it off the roll so i dont print like most people.
And If im printing 0.1 - 0.06 i have no issues what so ever. Its 0.2 that quality drops and issues arise.
Its when you are rushing that you will run into problems. Sometimes, you just gotta leave it for 54 Hours!
Remember the hotter the plastic the worse quality you will get as the plastic takes longer to cool therefore issues may arise, and thin parts may melt. Besides, if the outer shell looks good, what do you care what the infill looks like, you dont see the infill, as long as the top is OK that is!
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Ok here are the results... the joining was not as easy as i thought and im just being lazy again and not using some putty that arrived today to fill in the gaps as i cant be bothered again. Its just a test ill do it when i really need to. They good ok before the acetone, but after a dip the robot opened up a millimeter on one side so i decided to leave it i haven't dipped the gnome yet. I also show you the face after the paint dried. I dropped the robot in by mistake and hand to put my hand into the acetone, but im lucky to be alive after that so try not dropping anything into the acetone if you are not wearing safety gloves. I did initially wear them, but i needed more grip so just took them of as acetone is pretty harmless if you dont drop things a lot in it and have to put your hand in it. (please allow the saftey comments im not in the mood) and i ran out of primer in case you are wondering why i dint finish the UM bot.
Im not gonna post anymore on this thread, i think i've covered everything. Ill do a video next.
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Surely the gentler the curve the more noticable the marks, think of it as the jaggies on a diagonal line with no smoothing. Or a low res elipse and look at where it looks lame most. everytime the line (purple line) breaks you get a mark...? i think. Less in the middle and more on the edges. Its a resolution thing maybe?
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I hear you about 260 being a bit high, but i think it is fine as long as you dont let it sit there. I do it before every print and have had no issues what so ever compared to the times i never did it.
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Yep, like i said, the default settings are fine, and the only real settings you need to play with are temp and layer height and speed according to what type of filament you use. Also shell but (again only what in the basic settings) the other stuff is more complicated if you dont know what you are doing you are likely just making things worse.
Im glad temp solved it for you and can confirm raising the temp fixes these problems, especially for colorfabb. I had people telling me my printerwaas faultly when i printed at 50mm/s 0.2layer height at 230, but hey its what worked for me, and the tune button is great for experimenting on the fly.
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I think changing infill speeds is a bad idea from everything ive read regarding related problems. I haven't changed any settings and other than speed and temp, and layer height and have no issues with any object. Try with normal settings before you start messing around fine tuning. Get used to how the printer work before tinkering about as you may run into problems and get annoyed that they dont work out.
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Colorfabb is good filament its all i use along with UM.
You should really be fine with all settings default out of the box, and just changing layer height and temp.
Try a reset maybe if you are still concerned, but from your print, the layers look flawless. not sure what that weird stuff is on the left of the writing though.
Your atomic pull looks OK from the pics. It may lack solid definition (cant tell from the photo), and kinda looks a bit wobbly. i dont think you are pushing it in hard enough near the cooling period. the tip should be very sharp around all the edges of the interior of the print head. Something like this, ignore the back, my coupler is dead.
P.S. When you are doing the atomic pull, heat it up to 260, and push the filament in reasnoble hard but not too hard (i actually hold the filament with pliers as i dont like the pressure on my hands) and then when the filament is going through, dial it down to 85. now rather than waiting for the temp to drop and then whipping it out, in my opinion, the most efficient way is to keep pushing it through until its too cool to go in, i usually find it it slows and stops around 170 degrees C for colorfabb PLA. Then leave it and watch it drop to 85 before whipping it out. (do not make a cup of tea as its cooling down as if its stays on 85 for even a few seconds too long you wont be able to get it out and forcing it is a bad idea, your better off reheating and staring again.
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I don't really print ultra straight stuff but thats good to know! thanks
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So basically if you don't want zebra lines rotate it 15 degrees. Will this work for anything, or just the boat?
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Looks like a blocked nozzle to me.
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With regard to ABS, i agree the quality of print you get is better than with PLA, but weaker. higher melting point, but weaker. I had so many delicate things break on me with ABS that just bend in PLA and go back to their original position. Also getting large flat surfaces with ABS, to sit and not move or warp during long prints even a millimetre is difficult unless you build a hood use ABS juice and blah blah, compared to PLA which you just knock out.
But most importantly which some people still don't believe is that PLA blends smooth out great with acetone and ABS simply melts uncontrollably. So I can finally achieve what I set out to when I bought the damn thing. This would not be possible with the maker-bot due to resolution restrictions.
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You may want to try one print like this just to be sure its not the filament snagging as the feeder is a bit hit and miss and the clicking noise used to drive me up the wall, but i never get it anymore! I only print like this now as i simply had enough of those lines and the clicking noise, all so i can acheive perfect layer height as much as i can get it. (its never perfect unfortunately, even if it looks as if it is).
Good luck....expect lots of problem solving for the next few weeks! lol. but once you crack it. You'll be happy.
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I see 3Dprinting basically as Multiple tiered 3D Plotting with plastic. For all the people out there incapable of Poly modelling and such, Zbrush is a wonderful program for artists, but for accurate mechanics not so great. If you can draw you'll be able to make what you want in no time.
And yes i also agree about the 3d printers and get annoyed when i say we have a 3d printer and the first thing people always say is, wow, you can print anything, your own printer, or print a computer, or something dumb like that. they've been mis-sold especially by makerbot people with his whole you can print anything routine. He brought awareness true but a lot of lies with it, but the lack of closeups had me very suspicious from the start as to the quality of the print, and to no surprise at all i though the quality was below my expectations, and hated the lines. Then some bright spark did the whole ABS routine and everyone is melting their pieces trying to achieve what they've been mis-sold. Thank god for PLA!
However after tinkering around, I am happy to talk up my ultimaker as i love the open source and can acheive things of a quality i thought i would never be able to at the start. Its just not as easy as 123. Or pressing a go button on a closed source printer.
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For those who are interested.... 0 infill
Im not printing this boat anymore, too many overhangs, horrible in 0.06, lol.
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Even with 0 infill it has zebra stirpes, sorry about that! the light was a bit poor and it hadn't quite finished yet.
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OK now im having my first attempt at joining pieces together and acetoning them afterwards. I used Maya to slice the models, and some araldite 5 mins to join them as when i tried with superglue it did not give me enough time to align them by eye and i ended up tearing them apart. Will post the dip results after i clean them up as because they are slightly melted to the base i have some sanding to do on the joins. not to much though. Really happy with the detail in the gnomes face.
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I try to print everything without any infill if possible, that is the benfit of a thicker shell. I did see some artifacts on my older models, but now think i can crank my prints up to 70mm/s instead of my current 35mm/s, thanks to this news.
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I could print with abs just fine with a blocked nozzle, but NOT PLA. Thats the day i realized i needed to do the atomic method properly.
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7, 8, 9, look good though, so i doubt its a faulty nozzle. blocked i reckon.
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This is why i dont print off the roll anymore......may want to double check youre nozzle too. but more likely the snagging issue.
ABS Warping...not solved...
in Materials & profiles
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I had perfect results with abs and pla out of the box. I see all these new people messing around with expert settings when there is no need. By using those setting you are going to run into trouble down the line.... Truly pointless.
What on earth is going through your head that makes you go straight into advanced settings before you understand the majority or the basics of the 3d printer, as you clearly dont otherwise you wouldnt be going there.