cloakfiend
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Posts posted by cloakfiend
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You really should do atomic pulls after each material change in my opinion to save this kind of drama. but if you just load material see it coming out and then go to print and nothing comes out, it could be the coupler. Until you do the atomic pull, you wont know if there is still stuff left over in the head. Do a test, load some material wait a bit and click print. If nothing comes out, its the coupler....maybe, lol.
If its prints fine and then you try another later, and it doesnt work, then perhaps its the coupler, especially if you didnt clean out the nozzle. try overiding it. worked for me when my second prints weren't printing. worth a shot if you have nothing else to try?
Just heat up the build plate to 70, load the material into the head using move material at a high temp, and kick off the print before the head drops to 210.....
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in my experience the coupler height may not be the only issue, mine has been that high for months if not higher, now its leaning over, lol. I always wandered if it should be flush, but i've seen many pics where its not.
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What do you mean? the feeder is miles away.
hmmm... so then you heat up the nozzle, move material in and then lower the temps, and then pull it out from all the way at the back?
Yes. Well, I heat to 180C, when it gets there push the material in using my fingers just under the feeder, then lower to 90C and leave for 5 minutes. Come back and pull it out - hard. If it's easy then it was too warm and I don't get a good "pull". The tip should be perfectly shaped like the inside of the nozzle including the thin .4mm channel.
Then if I change color there is zero mixing of colors.
Just tried putting the filament in as i did before but rather than 260 like i normally do i did it at 190 and dropped it to 90 for the pull and it worked great so thanks for that! Ill be doing that from now on. much quicker and 90 doenst seem to break the filament as 85 does.
Seems like even one pull is enough. i did two just to see what the second would look like.
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The feeder is the main issue with 3D printers, and in my experience i have just given up on it completely and cut the measured filament off the roll, its the only way of stopping filament/spool snags and completely removing friction from the spool to the feeder. Printing like this solved EVERY clicking feeder based issue, along with correct atomic pulls. Feel fre to print roberts feeder but it wont prevent random filament spool snags.
It wont hurt if you just try it once....you said you tried everything did you try this?
and check my tut for printing with a deformed coupler. If after you have loaded it correctly and see a bit come out of the end, and click print, then nothing comes out as it tries to print, thats more than likely the reason!
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I just change the nozzle
Fair enough but I'd like to keep tinkering to a minimum as I think its all working nicely now apart from the coupler. Its coming up to a year soon with no replacement parts, so I'm happy with that result considering how many objects I have printed, as I print high res, I have the printer on for much longer, but lower temps (208-210) due to exclusively printing with my two favourite PLA brands. I dont bother printing 70mm/s at 230 anymore as the shell quality does not smooth well in acetone compared to 35mm/s at 210.
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Interesting? but unfortunately not an option at the moment, lol. Moving material past the coupler is just impossible at the moment as bits would keep on separating from the head and break off in the bowden tube or the area near the print head. I will try to go to 90 and leave it before I pull instead of 85, as if I leave it at 85 for more than a few seconds, when I pull it, it just snaps and I have to start over and that gets VERY annoying as i often tire of waiting for it to cool and end up walking away momentarily only to find when I come back its already reached 85 and has cooled too much. major bummer!
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I have no idea what the thumb screws are to be honest, i haven't touched anything on the printer other than the feeder which I unscrewed once and put on backward by mistake, but thats back on ok now. I guess when I have some serious print issues, i'll come here for help, but it appears to still be chugging along at the moment.
P.S. can i damage any other parts of the printer by continuing to print with my failing coupler? Are the thumb screws going to warp or get damaged in any way.
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Ok all done and looking good, some weird little artifacts here and there but next stage is cleanup and then.......yep........NEW PLA ACETONE BATH TUTORIAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YAY!
Heres the finished model on the printer.
And i also got my new PTFE coupler which i may be installing soon as i have seen a few weird artifacts, but ill do more prints to be sure!
my old one here for comparison sake.
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What do you mean? the feeder is miles away.
hmmm... so then you heat up the nozzle, move material in and then lower the temps, and then pull it out from all the way at the back?
Interesting, I admit i do like looking down into the nozzle to check if its clear, but print regardless of whether its clear or not, as once the main block is gone, then it doesn't really matter.
I don't mind doing the direct method. I kind of enjoy it and have no other option at the moment. Besides there is a certain satisfaction in cleaning the nozzle, however retarded it may seem, lol.
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Thanks for the pic, but unfortunately my printer is in an office so i cant put the filament on the floor for health and safety reasons, and im contantly being told to keep the area tidy which is a bit of a pain but hey ho, rules are rules. I guess ill just carry on cutting the filament off the roll then.
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I received my new PFTE coupler yesterday! Yay! ( lucky you though! It would have been nice if i got a whole nozzle kit though!) but to tell you the truth, i will carry on using my method to print for the following reasons:
1: I do an atomic pull before each print anyway so the bowden tube is already off.
2: If the prints are still looking good, then why replace what is not causing visible problems to my print. (i.e. if its not broken why fix it even though its on its way to being broken)
3: It doesn't take any longer doing it my way time wise as opposed to everything working as it should as the bed and head have to heat up anyway.
4: I can get more prints out of my printer without replaceing parts so often compared to swapping something out when it has not yet completely failed. (save a few bucks that coud be spend on a roll of filament or a few pints, lol.
5: Its not that big a deal (not difficult at all to do once you've done it a few times) and Its probably actually quicker and as you are in control of the temps you are likely to get the result you want as opposed to hoping filament will come out of the nozzle. As the nozzle is too hot at the start it will mean the first layer will be stuck nicely to the base.
6: This method works flawlessly even with the damaged PFTE coupler so why not get the most out of it as long as I am not causing damage to other parts?
This is in my opinion the beauty of open source, feel free to disagree though....
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@GR5 can you post a pic of your printer sideways, as the spool jam issue, tangled filament, or whatever you want to call it, is my main issue with the printer, but all these type of printers will have this issue apart form the cartridge ones that control how much filament comes out and have it enclosed. I have no idea other than cutting off measured filament (as i posted in the pic above) of preventing tangled filament. It used to happen to me every now and then, but now it NEVER happens since switching to this method. Is there another method (that is as effective as this one) other than cutting it off the roll to prevent tangles as i would love to know it, but i just cant think of anything as good?
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You may want to do an atomic pull before each print to be sure your nozzle isnt blocked. Cant hurt. anything to avoid the clicking is ok in my book.
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It looks like a jammed feeder or bad model, eitherway easily sorted, i posted a link to the bad model issue on your other thread from this (now below), and the way to solve bad filament spool jams is printing like this with the right amount of filament measured.
Bad model possibility,
but if others have printed this with no issues, then its more likely a spool jam. BTW when printing circular things, dont bother with infill, just make the walls slightly thicker. Saves time and money!
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Ok i deleted the next step off my SD card by accident, but all you do is pop in the SDcard, remember your amount of filament which was 4.25 Meters (425cm) and add on the length of the bowden tube then cut it off the roll, sharpen the tip as if you were doing an atomic pull (i also have a video showing you this) and then balance it on the back filament holder and click change material and feed it in making sure the filament is facing the right way when you feed it in. Make sure the bowden tube is not connected as if it goes into the head then by the time you click print, the material will be blocked inside the nozzle due to the badcoupler. You'll see the setup in the vid anyways. Ill do proper vids once i do the roughs so i know what to improve for the next time.
Heres a little vid in case you have no idea how ive done the filament. Feel free to measure it how you like,i just find i cant use a tape measure as the filament starts curling too much to measure when i've unrolled too much of it.
Anyways, here how i kick off a print, i should have called it part 2 but...i didn't lol.
Part 2: kicking off the print (after loading the material with a pre-prepped base)
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This is how i print now, 7 mins not too bad, i repeat myself a bit, but it sheds light on a few issues people may have with the PFTE coupler. Now ill admit i dont really know if im right in saying whats actually wrong but doing things this way bypasses any problems i would normally have kicking off a print with my visibly deformed coupler.
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Fair point. I guess if you arent smart enough to figure out time passing in a video then i guess you shouldnt be 3d printing.
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I deliberately didn't do any edits to show the true time it takes which is what newbies need. I can always do hardcore edited versions for the people who just like gathering knowledge and seeing hows others do things as well so thats no problem. There were a tremendous amounts of edits on the UM atomic pull method on you tube that if i watched it as a newbie, i would be confused, and i don't think pulling out filament slowly is right, as it can leave bits in the stuck around the head.
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OK, im doing a tut from start to finish including the acetone and spray painting, so once i finish, i guess the mods can delete the portion of this thread before it.
Part 1 loading your model in cura from your 3D app.
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Here are two vids i made, now im not going to say this is THE way to do it but considering i really have not seen any one doing it it works for me and im being careful. The fact that im holding a camera at the same time makes life VERY difficult for filming. And you may think from the video im being heavy handed, but i am very careful about how much pressure i apply so i dont break anything.
feel free to move this to another thread if you like, or shake your head at the way i do things, lol.
Bad PFTE coupler - removing stuck filament.
Atomic Pull, my way, lol.
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Fair enough. I guess its a bit cheeky if me complaining about peoples serious issues when i dont really have any or have dealt with any. Ill keep quiet from now on.
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Im already doing a tut for printing and changing materials with a deformed coupler and proper atomic pulls. Maybe also applying glue to the plate as its easy. And kicking off a print from cura. Thats about it. Im so sick of hearing people complaining that they cant work their machines or constantly playing around with expert settings before they understand anything. Ive been using my printer since sept/nov and have never needed to go to advanced settings once so i have no idea why most newbies do.
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I figured out a method of printing and changing filaments relitively easily even with a deformed coupler. However from what ive read that flex material its not easy material to print with. So im not surprised you are having a hard time with it. My method works with pla which is what i use.
But again. Nobody told me i figured it out these printers are still not 100% consumer ready. There most definitely is a learning curve. But you have to use your head and try to figure out why things happen and what you can do to fix them. Only asking for answers and not truly experimenting with everything available is the lazy way. It might help it might not. Not everyone shares exectly the same issues. There is more to the printer than settings. The feeder, the bowden tube, the coupler... all of these things are open for you to play and hack to make them work the best for you.
Ill do a tut. But in all honesty if i look at how um do atomic pulls on their videos, i do it differently, how most people load their material, i do it differently, how people change materials, i do it differently..
You get the drift? Do what works for you. The rules of 3d printing are merely a guideline. Even on the um. Thats what makes it better than any closed source printers.
I could list all the problems with the UM but whats the point it wont achieve anything as i cant do anything about them. So instead ive just figured out workarounds.
Sorry for the rant...lol.
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I hear you, i hate waiting for it to cool down. Lol.
Acetone Finishing on PLA
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
OK heres my latest Atomic Pull method, using much cooler temps, as suggested by GR5, works much better, and every time as well. Vid is only 2mins30 so super short, and no time wasting!
Still use my pliers though!