cloakfiend
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Posts posted by cloakfiend
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Lol, no its spray paint, i did the dip the previous night. I'd try ABS with acetone spray, but i found it a pain to keep stuck to the build plate, especially delicate tiny prints that i can easily remove with PLA. Also the glue is annoying to apply and the temperature of the nozzle means it destroys the coupler quicker. Id like to see a comparison of acetoned ABS vs acetoned PLA? Can you post your best ABS acetone print and I'll try my best in PLA. I have no ABS at all so cant try it out otherwise i would. I remeber having very clean prints with ABS, but could not clean the lines away and they seemed far too delicate to hold any weight, i had lots of things snap on me, its why i switched to PLA, lower temps, easy acetone application, but you have to print in high rez otherwise the acetone wont do enough to melt the lines away.
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WIll try tonight on my dying coupler. ill do the boat, but i get those subltle lines quite regularly, i thought that is just an unfixable issue?
here is something similar on roberts feeder i still have about.
why the kinda shadows of the hole after it, weird, but purely cosmetic. Not an issue on massive surfaces as uyou can easily sand filla them. some subtle vertical lines too, oh well not too bothered about that.
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Shaxon ABS? what is that? Wait, now im confused, lol. I only apply acetone to PLA, NOT ABS. That way i get minimal detail loss due to the PLA/PHA combination. ALL detail even edges still look great, I wouldnt dream of dipping ABS, it would just ruin it. I did this one last night and sprayed it this morning. 25 sec in acetone certainly has not ruined it in my opinion, model was not that detailed anyways. Obviously still wet lol. And unlike ABS PLA does NOT go shiny with acetone, but smooth instead.
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I just split the model, as i have a lot of modelling experience, joining the halves is not really a problem. But more of a time thing.
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Yeah i know, but we arent talking very much washing away and you dont want what washes away anyway, it leaves the model cleaner. Leakage happens more so with colorfabb to tell the truth, with UM filament it doesnt matter what you do really it stays on the model and the magic only really happens afterwardsduring the whitening phase in my experience(not sure what filament you're using), ive tried all the methods. For the seriously anal, you can apply it area by area with a tiny brush as well until you are happy with the final result (again only with UM blue in my experience). I doubt the difference between spraycan and container is worth the price difference, but in the name of research will do a test to find out for myself.....
However, when you spray on the acetone, i imagine its not on the surface long enough to achieve a smooth finish in one pass? Hence wasting many cans of acetone if you print out a lot of stuff like i do. If you dont print much then i dont see a problem with the spray.
Don't worry a comparison will come...
P.S. what filament brand are you using?
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you should be able to print at up to 70mm/s no problem. I printed a lot like this and it looks fine if you're no gonna paint it. but it doesnt work with my acetone method as it creates bizzare subtle surface patterns due to the speed so i dont bother anymore and do everything at 35, mind you with my new method of loading the filament i might actually give it a go again!!! If you want to print at 70mm.s then crank up the temp to 230 thats it! Go for it. But dont expect the overhangs to look any nicer.
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Its hard to explain, you can tell from the tip if you are getting it into all ares of the head to clean, the bit you pull out should look like this in my opinion. And ignore the neck as my coupler is faulty! If it doesnt look like this, (at the tip) you are doing it wrong.... or something is wrong. Im gonna do a video guide today about this maybe, as like making a cake, its different reading something to actually seeing someone doing it.
And regarding the 45 meter filament, i think it would be far wiser printing it in parts and then assembling it later. Big things are easy to join compared to small things. My robot is split as i did it to avoid the lame bottoms and will just glue it or acetone it together later. Here are the original files, mine is slightly larger as its quite detailed and i want to chrome it up later. The manual supports i added for the overhanged stuff is OK not perfect one fell down, but as a 5 Hr test it came out just fine. I had more issues taking it off the plate as i used way too much glue and ended up tearing most of his face off with pliers pulling him off.
I printed mine 1.6 scale as well BTW. So import the OBJs and have a go if you want with all my setting i posted. Youll need to rotate them and lay them flat, and ill admit i didnt split them in the best place, but they fit together perfecttly afterwards, and ill show you the final result when im done.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pprq9hnmj1jjwno/AAD00OHOq82FMWy1EVV1Z_Tha?dl=0
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'The extended is much more pronounced than the extended? you mean the UMO+?
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Here is my test piece. I printed a few. It does this with the UMO+ and Extended so far. The extended is much more pronouced than the extended though, but same thing.
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Maybe cura is cutting the polys in weird ways, leaving pinching at those spots? these are issues i can never understand!
try cura 15.02.01 i really dont know the difference, everthing has printed identically the same for me from the past curas, only the support has changed to being much thinner for PLA for me, which was amazing!
I can try printing it if you like, but i dont think that will help you?
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Here is the face after a quick undercoat this morning, i was in a ruch so just slapped a bit on and took a blurred photo!
Job done, no cracks!
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Yeah i know i already spoke about this on another thread, but its really not necessary, and way more expensive than dipping, for the price of 1 or 2 cans i get a 5 litres container and that has so far lasted me 6 months and im not even half way through it., plus you end up spraying the stuff all round it as well. So for the safety nuts out there this is even worse than what im doing, lol!
The spray in my opinion would be only really useful on large un dippable objects. And useless on colorfabb PLA it will only work on UM brands in my opinion, but hey i'll admit that i have not tried many filament brands. Only UM and Colorfabb which ive had great luck with. UM Blue is my winner, and WILL work with spray but seeing as you need to keep re-applying the acetone you will find it to be quite wasteful.
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Heres is the same face after acteone. Ill spray it tomorrow just in case it cracks as i dipped it just an hour ago and i want to let it sit overnight, but im pretty sure with UM blue ill be safe as houses.
Looks real good to me, but we can only see after the undercoat! Right now, who knows? lol. (well i do)
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This is everything stock with my posted setting above but infill 20. Try printing it really small see what happens. Just try loads of things before you replace the head, i thought my head was ruined at one time as well but realized i didnt do atomic pulls correctly and had the printer in a room that had way too much air conditioning. all the top layers looked exactly like yours and the sides too. Everything was melted and looked weird. even worse than yours. but i managed to sort it. now even with my dying coupler i can still print stuff manually doing all the feeding and pre heating my self.
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Maybe, i have to admit i have no idea what a bad nozzle print looks like. can you print anything right or just what you have been trying.
try printing the ultimaker robot on its back. i just did to see how the flat top cam out and one side looks slightly better than the other for some reason, but seeing as im going to acetone it later i dont mind, as long as the layers are perfectly aligned i dont care. Something looks wrong with your layer height alignment thats for sure. maybe dirt in the twisty thing the build plate moves up and down on or in the holes. Im sure you've cleaned it. Try another nozzle, they arent expensive, not that ive changed any, but i also have been printing very heavily since i got it and its seems to be going strong? I regularly did 54 hours long prints too so im not sure what your issue is.
Until you do tests and post them regularly, you wont fix your issues unless you do it on your own. how can people help you if you dont show your progress?
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Systematically change each setting at a time noting down when things improve. Its the only way im afraid, kinda like assigning IRQ ports back in the day, lol.
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What are those settings you printed with now?
as compared to the settings you printed with before? did you play with temps, how many passes does it make for the floor. Like folks said if its one, aim for like 3-4 to be safe. with shell and walls 1.2 you should not be having problems, do a few more atomic pulls and try printing something with the filament cut off the roll to eliminate snags on the filament and the feeder. Go from there. Change one thing at a time and you'll figure it out.
off the roll test removed any weird lines for me. This is how i print every time now. Never looked back. It gives you the smoothest possible result no matter what kind of feeder you use period. It eliminates ANY possible chances of serious snags and poor feeder behavior. This completely eliminated the clicking sound for me which i admit had me wanting to smash the printer on a few occasions. But I'm very happy now I know how to deal with any issues, and I hope you sort yours out too. Once you do, you'll be fine.
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Any new pictures? try it at 60mm/s and layer height 0.1 or something. or just slice off a section and try lots of different things, other wise 54 hours is a long wait for a fail. I have not really had any fails after the initial first month of owning the printer. Like someone said here on the forum. The UM2 is very nicely calibrated with cura out of the box, so if you use that you really should not have too many issues trying the settings shown. I only had this weird problem when i had the top/bot at 0.8. As soon as i made the top/bottom 1.2 in both boxes i had no issues what so ever.
The ONLY settings I use for what its worth!
If i print 0.1 I use 50mm/s as the speed thats the only thing i change.
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Do it! once you get the hang of it, you will only use this method. Just try to avoid getting the acetone on your hand as it melts the PLA sometimes and when you touch it, it smudges the model and sticks to your hand, (like what happens with the ABS but much less) and if you don't touch it, its 100% safe if your're doing it outside (for the health and safety purists!). You can touch the model after like a minute or so after dipping it, so its much easier than ABS, and leaving it for a few more seconds will not do drastic damage to the detail unlike ABS.
Here is the head in UM blue, this material has NEVER cracked on me so im going to dip it tonight just to prove it and to get it as smooth as i can. The bottoms of the ears are messed up as i forgot to put the supports during modelling.
P.S. if you want ZERO lines or as close as you can get to zero (because there will aways be VERY faint lines), im afraid you will need to spend at least a few minutes with very fine sandpaper on the problematic areas (i used 400 and 600, that way you cant really oversand as its too fine. You'll learn how to identify them merely by looking at your model in different angles in the light relly close up. Good luck!
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If you use PLA/PHA blends, then you CAN also use acetone to smooth it. Dont listen to all the people who say otherwise, they clearly have not experimented at all otherwise they would be agreeing and recommending acetone to finish with as you cant beat the results in my opinion. people only appear to still associate acetone with ABS but for me that is lame and you lose way too much detail, with PLA you lose much less, but im constantly trying to persuade people otherwise. UM Blue PLA smooths fantastically (the best in my opinion, which is kinda convenient for the UM brand as im using an ultimake as well, and you can even apply the acetone with a brush to do it, but colorfabb is a little trickier, and tends to crack if overdone and needs a bit more of a sand before/after. Im doing a tutorial but want to get it right so all the health and safety concerns are addressed for those with children and the paranoid who generally dont work with chemicals. BTW acetone is the safest solvent you can get and does very little harm to your body unless you pour it all over yourself repeatedly, or drink it, or do dumb stuff, and unless you contain it in a closed space and set fire to it, its really not that dangerous. You need to have a bit of common sense when using it, like anything in life. Its paint thinner, so just keep it in an air tight jar outside or in a garage away from anything flammable and bring it out for your dips.
The pictures should speak for themselves, that way you know what to expect. The model was also printed with UM blue PLA/PHA or whatever UM use to make its blend of PLA. And no sanding at all for the lazy!
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/10412-acetone-finishing-on-pla?page=5
EDIT: UM FILAMENTS DONT SMOOTH ANYMORE BTW, THEY CHANGED THEIR MANUFACTURING PROCESS.
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How does the print look?
I have given up on all feeders, and have not looked back, I just measure off what i want before hand and balance it on the roll holder. I waste the length of the bowden tube every time, but get a perfect print every time. I think the trade off is well worth it. I found that rolls of filament just don't unwind without snags all the time and when they snag, they instantly create print lines on you model which is annoying, even worse, a fuzzy layer. then when it clears a perfect layer on top.
Roberts feeder is meant to feed the plastic in better, but i cant be bothered anymore, and don't think it will make so much difference. as my pfte coupler is dead, so i need to separately feed in filament by hand manually each time anyways. and with the filament off the roll i have no issues with it, so i dont need the feeder.
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Sorry, to add supports, just load it up in maya or max or cinema or blender, or any program and just make two cylinders from the base to the model ears. You will later cut this off but you need it to start printing the bottom of the ears or its too thin for curas supports. If you go to youmagine.com and look for my buddha then look at the pictures youll see how i did them there. You can even see how someone else printed it with the supports in the photo. Hope that helps, im not by my computer at the moment.
Just type buddha in the search and its the gold shiny one
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To stop the overhangs ruining the print. And making it stronger and more stable during printing. You could try 0.8 but i cant get good results that way. The top and bottom sometimes leaves holes. With 1.2 you cant go wrong with anything. Might be a touch longer but with 0 infill you make up the time.
Nice paint job, it'd be nice to see better quality photos though. Its 2015, i expect clear photos, lol! Close ups would be better! Im a big fan of close ups!
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If it doesnt work, then try to print the model hollow with support everywhere ticked, and 100% infill, that way you determine how thick the walls are and the support will let you do the flat bits, but dont add the bottom or else it will not work. Remember to not close your model though as if its closed it wont do support and e top will fail.That should work 100percent.
And regarding the screw and the feeder, i hear you, it doesnt do anything. i ended up snapping my alan key on it, lol. I just put it back, as it was not even sure of how i twisted the screw back properly or not. I put it on backwards first time by mistake and it was in reverse, lol!
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The thinner the layers. the more of them, hence the 45 hours, but in my personal experience with everything stock when i print in .2 i set the temp to 230.
And i understand about time, in your case everything is square so you can get away with more speed in my opinion. i did.
I made some keyrings for work and my settings were: 20 or 30 infill (i think 30?) , speed 50mm/s
temp 230c layers height 0.2mm and shell 1.2 top and bott. I knocked out quite a few with no issues what so ever.
here are some pics with UM blue and colorfabb red, both done with same settings.
my advice to you is to hit the tune button on the front during print and play with the temps, that way you know what works best for your printer and filament! Some people said there was something wrong with my printer if i need to go to 230, but hey thats my printer, and it gives great results, so what do i care what they say. Do what works best for you.
Why does my print have tiny zebra stripes?
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Good to know! and even better to know how to sort it, but i really don't mind it as its for a functional piece rather than a cosmetic one. Its needs to work more than it needs to look good.