cloakfiend
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Posts posted by cloakfiend
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You need to do about 6-8 Atomic pulls in my opinion (or whatever it takes). Then go from there, i had this problem, and it was the fact i was not cleaning the nozzle enough (i mean i wasn't doing it properly). Do it with white until its all white after each pull and you don't see any burn marks or discolouration. Also try printing in 0.1 or less as the more layers it does the cleaner it gets. It looks from your picture that its burning the plastic as it goes over it, which suggests a block to me.
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Heres a gcode for the buddha, i tried uploading it to youmagine, but that website is completely usless and slow and contantly resets during uploads and gave me errors on files size and just about everything else so I gave up. but you may need/want to add supports for the ears as i forgot to! so i added the OBJ files as well. Cura doesnt seem to put the support on the lowest part of the overhangs for some reason just slaps them on its grid, and they really should be closer than it is now to the actual model in a perfect world. " my wish for future cura improvements!"
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x9um3hqt8yco1z4/buddha_girl.gcode?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1pctc9qotvq5w6p/buddha_LISA.obj?dl=0
Could you share with me a model gcode to test a fine printing like that? I never get to configure my ultimaker 2 correctly not sure if its my code or printer and I see you make a really smooth one!
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OK as i got a bit drunk yesterday and really couldn't be bothered getting rid of the line as I had already undercoated it and then sprayed it gold. I thought I'd just print another out and see if it splits. as well, if so i need to figure out why. But i think the filler would be easier to work into the plastic when there is no paint on it.? its just a clean test.
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Well turns out it split even more as a result of the spray paint or something and the putty just wasnt up to fine sanding and didnt stick well enough. Ill need something more resiny and gluey to fill that annoying split i may wait for it to settle and come back in a few days, as acetone in pla needs some time to cure, and i didnt wait more than an hour after the dip before spraying it. But other than the crack im very happy with the result of the acetone as with the help of some utra fine sanding before the acetone in problem areas the model looks almost flawlessly smooth.
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The 'fine' print look i think you are talking about 'IS' the acetone look. without it you have lines. No settings will remove them. You have to physically remove them yourself. And the another reason for the 1.2mm shell (top/ bot) that may seem thick for some people is that it gives you a little more freedom when it comes to smoothing out the undersides (via sanding) and sharp inclines without going through the model shell, as they ALWAYS look lame in very thin layer heights. I read somwhere that i can change the distance the model is drawn from the supports and making the gap less may improve this. But hey ill send you the same model as above which is kinda poly heavy as its my first attempt at Zbrush, but it wont look the same as the picture above without post work. I didnt spend too long, maybe 15mins but still ive made an effort to make it look nice rather than slapping paint straight on it as some people tend to do.
Aletrnatively you can just go through free models and look for the most detailed one and print it at 0.06mm layer height.
And also just to let you know i am printing with out of the box settings, and never really touch the advanced setting in cure, just the basic ones as mentioned above. Good Luck.
im not at my desk but if you want to try to print my buddha then go to you magine and search for it, its there.
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i print everything with the same settings and print everything in pla. my settings are 0.06 layer height, 210c sometimes 208c temp. and all shells 1.2mm no in fill, speed 35mm/s. im going to do a tutorial on the post processing with acetone as some people who have no arts and craft experience tend to freak out at the mention of acetone, and get paranoid they will kill themselves or blow their house up. when in actual fact there is next to no danger what so ever, its all hypothetical. if you go to the tips n tricks section, you can look for acetone smoothing with pla and get the general idea of what you need to do.
what are your printing specs for this scaned buda ?
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Ok here is my latest print of my first Zbrush mashup model after acetoning for 1 minute. i do 1 minute for colorfabb as its not as diissolvable as UM PLA. The model is hollow and shell 1.2. it cracked after the acetone treatment as the layer must have been disturbed by the building air conditioning during print or some other factor. This is my first attempt at filling a hole with putty. Im using milliput, reguler, maybe should have gone superfine, but ill see how this turns out after a quick sand down when its dry.
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Yes they are auto rotated, otherwise i need to crop them like this....
Pic is same model as above post acetone, unfortunately the model split on me for some reason, o well, one line is not so bad to deal with, a bit of putty should do it.
are they auto rotated? when portrait on your pc? if so that should be changed imho, but not you could add to white areas to the side to make the picture landscape, but you should not need to do that of-course ...
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Got a ghost email, so i thought, what the hell, ill post something seeing that im here now.
Well after learning that my PFTE is dying, i was worried that my print would be ruined, but alas it came out ok! It is my scanned buddha with my friends face on it. First Zbrush 3d print! yay! now on to aliens...
Another thing, i wish you could post portrait photos without having to crop them to prevent them from being rotated.
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Cheers Sander, i got the printer via my work, so ill have to get the details off them first thing monday. Ill PM you as soon as i do.
@cloakfiend, let me check with our support-team and I will have someone reach out to you.
Can you send me your ordernumber and email in a DM?
Thank you!
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Lol, i just looked at my coupler as i kicked of a print just now, and from the looks of it its pretty badly melted and not even touching the base. I have been forcing prints for the last month or 2 due to the change material doing nothing but grinding due to getting stuck at the head, but i wondered that this was unsusual as i never had to do this before, but i just got used to it as both preheating the nozzle and base and moving a bit of material right before i kick of a print is the only way i can do it now. so i think i need this coupler also. I think i needed it 2 months ago. Lol. Can i get one sent also? Ive had the printer since november, so my guess is that if you print all the time, at 210 you'll need one every 6 months or so. I did briefly experiment with abs at higher temps for a month at the start, so i admit its hard to tell. Ill post pics of it once its finished tomorrow.
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Thanks, fair enough, I guess like everyone, when something goes wrong, i'll just come here for help! All good so far.
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Could someone possibly tell me whats the longest that this coupler will last or is expected to last, just out of curiosity?
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Ahh mine does the same thing, i thought it was just the feeder causing all the problems. I have been printing almost non stop since last November, just curious but when do you think i will start to need replacement parts, say fans or this coupler? shall i just wait for things to fail, or would it be wise to get a few things in advance so it doenst disrupt my workflow?
How long can i run it with the above problem, or is is minimal as i really dont mind pulling out the bowden as i do it everytime to load filament anyways.
P.S. that bit of filament you posted doesnt look like you've done it right or its the couplers fault, as the sides of the filament should be melted? these are an example of what my pulls look like and what i aim to get the tip out looking like.
Note the plastic is not shiny at the end, and there are no grip marks at all. When i atomic pull i always push it in slightly while it is cooling down to make sure its touching the sides and cleaning the best i can get it too.
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Lol, you couldn't be further from the truth mate....
maybe thats what you think because i have literally posted my entire experience and attempts/successes/fails/everything and observations. I thought that's what this place was for, i dont do things like the very first video post i made on this subject, and after i do a new tutorial i will delete this entire thread, as people still mail be about safety nonsense that doesnt apply like wearing gloves and doing it outside and blah blah. The way i do it now has zero danger levels and i still consider it to be the ONLY method of clearing those nasty lines the best i can. Id still reccomend a bit of sanding depending on your models wobble factors during printing though as if your model is thin then it maybe jiggle if there is fine detail in it and the head moves a lot.
As I have said so many times in the past. These next pictures illustrate the WORST surface quality you will achieve via my 'safe' acetone method, followed by a spray undercoat (very thin) and one spray coat of gold. The model is printed at 60microns 35mm/s UM blue PLA went a bit thin on the shell (forgot to change my settings back) and a 9 hr print. If you can beat that with no sanding or filler in 25 seconds then show me and ill ditch the acetone.
These are in reflective gold taken next to my lit fireplace! oooooooooh danger acetone. Gold is used as reflective materials bring out the lines most, so if it looks good shiny then you know its good.
To get it perfect you need to do a touch of sanding after the inital undercoat as you wont see the lines until you spray the model, no matter how perfect you think it looks. Its not.
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Didnt see anything regarding PLA on this printer, so it will be useless to me, looks pretty good otherwise. The cartridges seem like a good idea to ensure smooth print lines and no jamming, but limits you to those specifically frm the manufacturer. I like how the UM is open source and i decide how to run it and prep it and load the filament. FDM printing is not consumer ready yet (i.e. idiot proof) . so to buy anything that is not open source is limiting your options drastically. you may have bad experiences with anything and its bad luck that your fan was not working, but after inspection(a few months down the line, i noticed my heat bed was bent upon arrival and fan holders as well, but the bent bed only affects heat using ABS one one side, but i dont care as i dont use abs, and i can overcome any issues anyways but using the abs juice. that is the beauty of these printers, the accessibility. i feel sorry for anyone who has a jam and cant access inside the head to clean it manually. or a jammed roll that is constantly ruining prints by snagging lightly on the filament before it unwinds causing uneven print lines. When i bought my printer i didnt really care where from, i got it from robosavy as that way i had it next day or so. would have been a 2-4 week lead time from UM otherwise and with the support so good on the forum what more would you need. it looks as if the zortax doenst really use PLA much and considering UM (and colorfabb to a lesser extent) produce PLA that dissolves in acetone perfectly to remove print lines at 60microns, I see no reason at all to even be tempted to even look at this printer until i know i can smooth the print lines on its PLA filament .
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I think it only does the skipping and bouncing around as it is loading, after everything is loaded, its fine. I am just impatience and like to scroll down immediately which is why i think i always tend to see it (even with a very fast internet connection). I don't like waiting for pages to load.....lol i guess that is my punishment
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If i go to the side menu and click on community, and try to scroll down, it always jumps back to the top or vice versa, basically jumping during you moving the page leaving you fighting the direction that the page moves once you start moving it. Im using chrome on a mac, Version 43.0.2357.81 (64-bit) and on OSX Yosemite. Happens on pages with quotes to my recollection, definitely the community page. I seem to recal this happening on my PC as well, win7 pro and chrome again.
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Hmm interesting, so then acetone combined with tumbling should then in theory produce a piece with no print lines and a metallic finish?
I see the finish is very fragile, but im sure a clear coat could help that somewhat.
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Just curious, but i just found myself getting annoyed at the fact that the pages do not move up and down normally when using the side bar on the page especially on the home page with all the quotes from threads not sure if this has been mentioned? It kind of skips to the bottom erratically, and you have to keep scrolling it up every time it jumps to the bottom of the page. very frustrating. again i feel this may be a result of some weird clash with the top bar but not too sure.
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Can someone please explain the advantage of a tumbler? im curious what it does exactly to 3d prints?
edit, never mind, i see its just for metal printed parts really.
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Nice seeing some more painted stuff! Looks great, I was doing an alien as well! lol. But mine was more like the jilted generation front cover, need more zbrush practice as I do most touching up in maya but its very limited and more clubersome with its sculpt tools.
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Not sure about all those mods, but I pull when it hits 85, this way I only really ever need one or two pulls. works for me with bog standard PLA filaments. sometimes I get distracted though and forget to look at the temp going down and it goes below 85 which either means it snaps or feels too tight to pull out so I have to start over.
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My museum is about to double its size doing peoples faces is turning out to be very popular. Just to let anyone else who likes making faces know. Dont waste your time using catch123 its crap quality compated to autodesks memento. Rezolution is three times better but is only available on pc im afraid.
Fatal Under extrusion, Top layers looks REAlly BAD,
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted · Edited by Guest
When you look down the nozzle can you see through it after an atomic pull? if not then its not clear. And even if it looks clear it doesn't mean that it is, after i figured this out, i have had zero problems, and my PFTE coupler is melted and on its way out, so its not that for sure, i've been printing non stop since November last year.
I wouldn't recommend clearing the head with anything other than atomic pulls as you may damage it and it doesn't mean you will get the bits on the edges just inside the head out as they are also the problem bits and cause slight blockades. You are basically avoiding thorough cleaning if you use a drill bit.