neotko
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Posts posted by neotko
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That is a thing of the past, bad bearings in the UM2go. So if you want to replace things, first consider your bearings. Remove the connection with the nut, and feel if there is friction somewhere along the whole height of the z-shafts. If there are no "heavy points", then an anti back-lash nut does not add value. If there are "heavy points" then change the bearings.
Well, the user has a machine from the past. Also, indeed like I said is always better to have really good flanged bearings, something that until recently was of a very 'so-so' quality. But removing play from the nut can't be bad, or can it? You tell us.
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but what use is the anti backlash nut when the z-stage is already pre-tensioned by gravity?
With some bad beds, gravity isn't enough
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11123-z-axis-layer-error?page=last#reply-129326
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I don't wanna mess around with using another kind of gcode that could impact usability for my school (novices to 3dprinting) etc.
I might just do something like this instead, just use power relay switch and pause the damn printers if there's spaghetti : https://ultimaker.com/en/community/5912-ip-camera-to-keep-a-remote-eye-on-your-ultimaker#reply-44513
Seems like a hardware solution to this problem might be the easiest approach for me, and less expensive than 7 raspberri pies lol
My 2cents about this
- If you turn off the machine remotely while HOT, the hotend 50% chance will CLOG hard if you leave it off. Just because this stops the 5V fan on the hotend that keeps the heat from going up near the coupler. So also, not only might/will clog, but also the TFM coupler will have less life span (so money). Ofc if it's just an intermited off/on it should be ok since the UM2+ 5V fan turns on/off when the hotend is hot or cold (40C or less = off). But ofc it need's power to do so.
- Reprap flavor is much better than ultigcode for some stuff (not for novice users ofc). Indeed is easier for novice printers to keep all click/print. But ofc, if the novice printers want to learn about 3D printing, they should get their hands dirty on Gcode to learn how it works at some point, how to improve things, etc. Also reprap is a more used along opensource printers, so they will also learn stuff for themselves. But also, once you follow the steps you don't even need to touch the headers or gcode anymore, so once is setup, there's no need to fear the gcode at all, since all is controlled by Cura.
Anyhow, managing 7 printers remotely ain't easy/cheap by default at all. Octoprint is the cheapest way to do it for now.
Make magazine made a simple and easy to reach tutorial about how to integrate Octoprint with latest 2.6 Cura
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Check just in case that the x/y are square
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Thanks for that Bob
It's a job and a half to strip it down from what I can tell. I've packed the lead screw with Magnalube and dialled the printer in a bit more. It's a little better but I think at some point I need to replace the lead screw and brass bush.
In my experience a perfect brass nut is hard to find, there are some china nuts with dampening tr8x2
IMO if you have perfect Z square flanged bearings on the bed, the issue disappears immediately. I know @gudo made a dampening nut using two nuts and a spring. So is fairly doable.
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11123-z-axis-layer-error?page=last#reply-130203
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There are many kind of blops and sources for it IMO
- Temperature too low, increases the pressure of the filament on the hotend, so when a stationary movement occurs, the filament slips out making a blob. Because on it's semiliquid state it tries to find places to go. The fix for this is to print even cooler, or print slower. Printing too low will allow the filament to not be able to drip, since will be less viscous. Printing slower will decrease the pressure on the hotend making less pressure that can 'slip out'.
- If you have too much pressure, a fix is to wipenozzle while retracting, so the pressure blob it's part of the print, instead of a stationary blob. This I think is possible on Cura 2.6 (don't I don't use it so). On S3D is quite easy to activate and control.
- If there's a stationary retraction, something that UM2 with ultigcode does quite a lot because it uses a separate gcode to retract-recover (so it can't do retraction+move unless you use reprap flavor), you need to change the settings to allow combing for example so the end of a loop the motor isn't extruding and the blop becomes part of the end of a loop (pressure becomes part of the print instead of a blop).
All this adjustments are filament-brand based, and sometimes change from color to color (even same brands have different viscosity). So you will have to adjust accordingly.
The easy fix, the no brainer fix, is to print cooler + slower. There's always a 'neat' spot where both work great. @ultiarjan has a nice test for that, I never used it since I do it by eye, but I think is one of the best tests out there. Is at:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/quick-temperature-fillament-test
Oh wow even Ultimaker made a video out of it:
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And with LGPL they don't have to, if they just offer the software as a service over a network, even if they make money with it.
So for contributors to the open source projects this means that a third party can use their free work, improve upon that work and make money on that work eg by offering a cloud-based slicing service, all without the obligation to help further the project and share back their improvements.
Maybe UM wants to allow big companies to insert Cura as part of their infrastructure with their proprietary code and without using Cura name? Maybe under the umbrella of a more segure/encrypted way to protect the customers IP.
I don't see why other companies that are actively sharing stuff like bcn or the reprap would benefit from this license change, or what they could do now that couldn't before. Any examples of what they could do now?
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I tried to lessen the heat gradient on the build glass by putting a sheet of .008" copper under the glass but as I feared it is simply too thin to make any difference. The gradient is still 7+ degrees C center of plate to 1 inch from edge. Is there a spec for this for the printer? Might I just have an out-of-spec heating element?
Maybe you could add a cotton insulation sheet?
https://m.es.aliexpress.com/popular/insulation-heat-bed.html
I don't know if that could work, I never print with more than 70C on bed
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Maybe a parameter to define the amount of variation of temperature in wich should make a pause.
It's very frustrating that the change of one degree celsius could pause an entire print, everytime the extruder change.
I already tried Prime Tower, and the nozzle that will start to extrude will always stop on top of the print.
You could edit the marlin and make your own firmware. There are settings that define how close to target and for how much time (5secs) must past after reaching that target. Dive into definitions and definitions adv on marlin and build your own marlin to cut the wait time, if that's what you are looking for.
UM3 doesn't wait that long to hit target to move faster, ofc that means that you will need a very precise PID to avoid fluctuations after hitting target.
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If someone didn't understood what is what (I didn't)
Found this explaining the differences
https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-difference-between-GPL-AGPL-and-LGPL-licenses
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This doesn't really look like a fair comparison. The Cura print has skin at places where S3D doesn't have that.
Could you please create a github issue so that this issue is on our radar?
We can further discuss there what the differences between Cura and S3D are in this respect.
If I'm allowed to give my 2cents about why I think that Cura travel paths are worse than s3d...
Cura, when does the infill or the toplayers, uses nearest neighbor, and that's fine, but every single line on a top layer is disconnected, and is only a travel movement, so is constantly looking for the closest one to do, instead of doing as big loops as possible (s3d has his loops closed). So cura zigzags much more, and s3d solves the path more clean.
Anyhow this is based only on my visual observations and way more time in front of the printer than a normal person should.
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The amount primed could be less if you retract less at the end of a print. Is all in the gcode. Isn't a machine problem but the settings you set with it. UM probably retracts alot to avoid dripping over the print.
Ultigcode uses a different header so the material temp are set on the machine. Reprap flavor includes everything needed for the print, so temperature etc goes on the gcode. You can edit everything since gcode is just a txt file. You really should check reprap wiki about gcode to get use to, is a very easy system, easier than Logo programming.
Timelapses, that's a problem of Octoprint. Cura does a really close to reality estimation. I bet that if you google you can set something on octoprint to read the estimated print time from the gcode. If not, just trust Cura (now that's a phrase I didn't see me writing). Again that's a Octoprint problem, not cura. https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/issues/270
About 4, no idea. Never had a um2, but one should assume they copy/paste the same temperature settings than the materials.
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NX2 is exactly what I need! Niceeeee
It looks just like greentec minus hightemp resistance. Also very good price for 1k. Beats any matte material on the market atm. Good order some!
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Please study the spec of this glass again. The "D" they are referring to is not the thickness of the plate, but the diagonal of the plate. This means at least their specification is not very interesting.
In practice it might be flatter than ours, but I doubt it. The unflatness is created in the tempering oven, where the plates are transferred on rollers at a very high temperature. As far as I know, all glass mnf use the same method.
The UM glass plates which are in the sales channels now are good. In the past there have been bad batches, and as far as I know all customers with complaints were dealt with by our resellers and sales partners.
Glad new glasses are flatter. The info I got from the reseller that worked on a tempered glass factory fo a time he told me he was surprised that tempered glass was used for a heat/cold part, and that isn't the kind of glass he would use for it (ofc he never seen a 3d printer). Also, in Spain at least they are cheaper than UM glasses.
Edit.
Also, as I said at the first post I'm just a guy that like yo test stuff. I bought them before checking the specs.
One interesting thing is that even after all this months they are nice without any scratches. And UM glasses for me they chiped always in 6-8months. Ofc I tend to abuse the cold/wait times to keep productivity. So for me is nice that they are still as good as new.
Edit: Now that I remember my chat with the glass guy. He told me the main difference when tempered glass cools on a tin bath is that it changes height while doing so, so isn't possible (he said exactly 'very expensive') to make it really 4mm. Interestingly enough I never noticed until he told me this fact, that the UM glass isn't 4mm but 3.8-ish. On the other side, Neoceram - Ceram glass, is actually of the advertised thinkness.
Anyone, I think that since you doubt the flatness, from a document, you guys at UM could just buy one, isn't expensive. Go test, have fun!
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Well I think everyone here on the forum knows that UM won't give love to the usb. They even removed the connection hole on the um3 frame (the board still have it). And they been not supporting the usb print since the first um2.
I thought was weird you didn't knew what flavor to choose like Lepaul said, that's what I mention it. Glad you do.
About pi, well it's been always a tinkerers platform with lots of forums and users, but isn't a plug/play solution. There are some pi boxes that have more friendly UI.
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So which flavor of gcode should labern and I select?
And will this play nice on the Ultimaker 2+ @nallath?
What remains is what should the proper gcode entries?
@labern you don't know what flavor use with octoprint?
Well, use reprap as the image says, so that's more than clear. For the header, you guys know gcode, and cura has some when using reprap. So. On issues there.
I don't have octoprint but I hardly see a problem with all the info you got atm.
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@tmostad and maybe inserting a hightemp cotton so the heat doesn't escape through the corners/sides? Ofc on um3 is very hard to access but also would stop stuff from falling inside
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VLC can get the image stream. I suppose from there you could do something?
@tinkergnome did test it, I never did but should be easy
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/23282-questions-about-ultimaker-3#reply-160603
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Well, regarding 'flatter', I think the Ultimaker glass in also pretty flat. There have been a few units which did not meet the spec's sure, but I believe we helped those customers out. But it is a bridge too far to imply Ultimaker glass equals curved glass. (not saying there are no (better) alternatives though).
I think the issue is the way the material (tempered glass) is made doesn't allow for less range of error than 0.18 And that's almost a first layer.
Neoceram, at least in my experience and on the datasheet has less range of error when is made. Isn't at all an UM issue, but the way the glass is made.
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Found this while searching other stuff
Seems it plugs between the motors and interpolates the steps removing the zebra.
Will order 4 and test!
https://m.imgur.com/gallery/uRF3s
In theory if it interpolates the steppers might have less torque... Will take a month to arrive so.. More soon-ish
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I wonder. Did you test Cura basic and it works and s3d fails or is only s3d?
Also for s3d info, if you are interested on knowing more read http://www.3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?t=7
For a ready-to-use profile, sorry on that I can't help.
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Reposition the endstop indeed. When you home with mark2 indeed you could hit the front corner since the park is on the right not left, but it would hit the parked hotend, since mark2 um2 homes on the bottom left where there's nothing to hit.
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So we have to replace the slider blocks to an smaller version?
Is this design good for us?
Is it possible to use these without the gray parts?
And do you think we need to reposition the endstops? On the UM2, the 6mm rod hits the endstop...
That's the one gudo and I made. The grey part is for the umo short shafts, once removed you can install the longer um2 shafts. I made them to work with umo/umo+/um2 and um3
How to calibrate X,Y and Z-STEPS?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted · Edited by Guest
Other source of imprecision while using default UM3 profiles is that because it uses so low jerk, it creates extra amounts of extrusion due the slow speed when changing directions.
You can edit that on advanced mode if you unhide the options bu default.
More about this
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/50090-overextrusion-on-edges
Also to change steps values on UM3 you don't need to build your firmware. You would need to activate Dev Mode, logging by ssh to your machine IP (ssh root@ipaddress password ultimakwr) and then find the jedi.json on the share/usr/griffin/griffin/machines) and then edit the text file using vi editor). Ofc all this if done wrong can brick your machine (not super dangerous but just a warning about changing values).