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sproutdesign

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Everything posted by sproutdesign

  1. Thanks for all the suggestions. After a lot of wiggling and pulling, I was able to pull the bowden tube up from the head - pulling the ground end from the feeder into the bowden tube. That gave me a bit of slack and I was able to expose more of the filament by undoing the 4 long bolts on the head to increase the gap between the core and inside top of the print head. That gave just enough space to bend the filament and pull the core out - the filament was actually not stuck in the core, just the melted collar it had made couldn't go up or down. It could have been caused by moisture in the filament creating a backflow, and perhaps the filament was too far into the head while the first PVA layer was printing. I set it up again after hot/cold pulls with the same filament having cut a couple of meters off it, and it printed without any problems.
  2. Yes I can see how the front fan not working could cause this. But the front fan on my S5 is working OK. I've been offered a back-to-base repair by the reseller, or a new head, but would really like to be able to fix it myself as the print core is brand new.
  3. Hi, Yes its 2.85mm 'Standard White', and the same happened with the old print core using 2.85 orange The printer is otherwise working normally and I can heat the print core, but it is not possible to pull the print core out with filament that has formed a flange like this as it cannot move up or down and the gap between the print core and head is too small to bend the filament to pull the print core out. I'd also really like to work out how this is happening in the first place. Recently updated the printer to 6.3.0
  4. Hi, I have just replaced my S5 print core, as PLA became stuck in my old one, and the same has happened on first use with a brand new print core. With the brand new AA0.4 Print core, I successfully loaded white ColorFabb PLA which extruded ok, and had printed XY calibration OK. Set it to do a weekend long print on Friday and left it while it the first support layer of PVA was printing from the other BB core. Today it looks like the PLA was stuck even before it started printing and I cannot remove it. Looking at the printer closely in the photos, a wide flange has formed in the filament around the top of the tube going into the print core, which also means the filament can't be pulled up through the head. This also means I cannot remove the new print core or filament. It is absolutely stuck. The front fan is spinning OK and inside the head is clean and free of obstructions or fibres. This must be what had happened to the old print core with a different PLA, as when I tried a hot pull, the filament cracked rather than pulling out, breaking at this point and is impossible to remove. I'm not keen for the same result with this brand new print core and would like to stop this happening. Please can you suggest how to get the filament and new print core out, and what to try to fix the recurring issue? Thanks in advance
  5. So it was still like it this morning. OFF and ON seems to get it going again, though this is the one thing it says on the screen NOT to do!!
  6. I have the same problem too. One hour so far. I’m going to leave it overnight
  7. Have added a 2.2kg roll of material from ColorFabb to each of these
  8. Hi, We have 3x Ultimaker 2+ Extended for sale if anyone is interested: http://ebay.us/XfoFa6 All very good condition and well maintained with new parts. They include the long and short spool holder, new nozzle and original packaging. Would ship by DHL and include a test print. Selling to upgrade to an S5
  9. Ah - I think I've found out more The the slow support speed setting only works on the second layer. The first layer everything is still printed the same speed which seems to be Initial Layer speed whether support or not. So only the first layer ignores the Support Speed, but it would still be helpful to be able to set this as the default is still too fast for the PVA to adhere to the build plate. Changing this to 10mm/s now works for PVA but also makes the rest of the print very slow.
  10. Hi, I'm having problems with Cura settings not being recognised or used while printing I want to set the PVA support printing speed to 50% of the PLA print speed. This is the only way I can get a particular print to work, as the PVA normally creates a birds nest. If I manually slow it down while printing PVA it prints OK but I have to keep watching the print. In Cura I have set Print Speed to 35 and Support Speed to 15, but they still print at the same speed. I've tried resaving, renaming, resetting, even experimenting with Support Speed of 1mm/s but it still prints support PVA at 35mm/s whatever setting I put in Cura. I'm running Cura 3.1 and latest UM3+ Firmware 4.1.4.20171204 How do I get the support speed I need? Thanks
  11. I'm also getting this error ER19, it happened 95% through a 4 day print that it had managed OK previously. It has just failed again with the same ER19 just over a day into the re-print. It seemed quite happy after a restart to have another go before it failed again. Spent a week on this so far :( I've attached photos of both prints at the point the printer broke down. Already reached out a few times to UK support but they have not seen this error before on an Ultimaker 3 Taking the cover off and looking at the connector it looks seated OK, it is flush on the right and possibly a tiny bit higher on the left / black end but we are talking >0.25mm Will try firmware and playing with the printhead cable but I really need a reliable printer... If it is the cable, is there a way to keep it in place rather than wait for this to happen again?
  12. Thanks Neotko! I'll start again with these settings. If anyone has thoughts on selectively editing supports to get rid of thin ones or selectively assign materials to them I'd be really interested.
  13. I'd also add Cura 2.3 generated more supports for the PVA than I'd previously had. I have already printed this 54 times on my UM2+Extendeds single extrusion and it takes an hour or so to clean up each one. The Faberdashery White PLA gives an excellent finish - no bobbles or stringing, but I still have to hand finish where the supports join the housing. It would be really nice to just dissolve the supports with UM3ext dual extrusion, but once I've dissolved the PVA that has been dragged through the walls it will have lots of holes and the part will not be presentable. Cura seems to want to build thin towers of PVA (which my UM3ext can't seem to build, especially on top of PLA) up to meet the side of any holes in the print, where previously Cura would have just created local supports inside the hole. I've never edited g-code but if I can't get rid of the PVA towers in Cura can I do it by editing the g-code somehow? I'd rather have a robust g-code file for repeated printing that has the towers removed or re-asigned to PLA (with the central support still PVA) if I can't nail the settings or get PVA to stick to PLA - is there a way I can edit the gcode to do this?
  14. Hi, Thanks for the reply. I agree PVA sticks to the base! I guess it is not clear enough from the photo so I've taken a screenshot of Cura at this layer of the build It seems happy to build fully enclosed PVA supports (in the rectangle top right) But you'll see from the Cura screenshot there are freestanding towers of PVA that it generated that in the photo are now the debris that is penetrating the PLA on the left hand side. So for these PVA supports which are causing problems, ideally I'd like to: - change the settings so they build correctly (maybe "support horizontal expansion" as you suggest) - or selectively delete the worst ones in Cura - or selectively reassign them back to PLA in Cura Any other ideas welcome Thanks
  15. Hi, I'm printing with Ultimaker branded PVA and Faberdashery White PLA. From experience the Faberdashery White PLA is a very reliable material to print on my UM2+s with. I'm not sure the settings for the Ultimaker PVA are working at all well though - what can I try next? Attached is a photo - you'll see the UM PVA is a birds nest mess creating loose debris, which is also getting dragged through PLA regions. These are out of the box settings for a new UM3 extended on "Normal" quality with support "everywhere" with standard settings/cores for PLA and PVA. I think the default with PVA is also 30% support density and its printing triangles. I think I'm having the following issues: - The PVA is not adhering to the previous layer of PVA where towers are deteriorating - The PVA is not adhering to the PLA where internal supports are being built on it - The PVA is stringing over the PLA and getting included through walls where it shouldn't be - Support towers with PVA strings sticking out are getting knocked and broken Does anyone know what tweaks I could try to settings to get improvement in the PVA performance? EG should I be printing hotter / colder than the default settings? I'm hoping to find a way to print the PVA bits reliably as I have 100 of these to print(!) - any advice on PVA would be much appreciated Alternatively, If I can't get the PVA supports to work, then I'd like to selectively delete the failed PVA support structures in Cura leaving only the ones that work, or assign some supports as PLA and some as PVA to avoid the problems - is there a way to do this? Thanks! Photo:
  16. I have Print Sequence checked in settings but it doesn't appear under Special Modes on the right.
  17. Ah. It would be much better if this was still possible as All at Once is messier and I need the automation to print more than one part. I guess the issue is you'd need an extra wipe tower printed per part?
  18. Hi, Do you know if it possible to print One At a Time in Cura 2.3 ? I have an array of small parts to print with PVA supports. If I print all parts at once then PVA tails are drawn inside the PLA printed areas when jumping between parts. If I just print one then the result is much neater.
  19. Yes it works now. The screen comes on shortly after power on, which it didn't seem to last night. Very glad its OK! I'd moved the machine and thought the power connector on the back was causing the clicking and it was some sort of cut-out. It needs to be very firmly pressed in to get it to clip in properly. All good now.
  20. That's exactly the same with my (beta) UM3. Then I've to wait for about 30 sec (the Linux system takes quite some time to boot) until the panel and the lighting switch on and the printer is ready. Thanks - perhaps I need more patience! I'll try leaving it on for a bit...
  21. Hi, My new UM3 extended arrived today. Unfortunately it won't power on now. I hoped to print something overnight so would like to know if there is anything I can do before calling the reseller tomorrow for a replacement? It printed a small print OK earlier and I turned it off. Now when flick the switch at the back, I can hear it click, it turns on the fan for less than a second then cuts out. The cable is firmly plugged into the back, and the kettle lead is pushed all the way into the power supply, which has a blue light turned on. The UM2+ extendeds that sit next to it are fine. I haven't tried swapping power supplies yet in case they are different? Is there anything else I could try?
  22. Quick question, but what do you do with the PVA solution from removing the supports? What is the responsible way to dispose of it? Planning to get a 3 extended to run alongside my other machines, and will see how the cores go.
  23. Yes they'll care. Especially when you look at how many cores you need on hand to print different materials, and at different nozzle diameters (If UM release them) I run 2 printers 24/7 at my company and swapping them looks convenient, but a complete stock of nozzle cores x diameters would cost more than the printer for all the materials we stock.
  24. Especially with such a gap between £7.50 for a nozzle and £99 for a core - that is a big opportunity to bring back the affordable flexibility we currently enjoy.
  25. Also if the Nozzle Core has a PCB to identify it, then it seems unlikely that just disassembling it and replacing the nozzle with a 3rd party one will be enough, since the PCB will need to be updated with the nozzle dimension.
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