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jambalyle

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  1. Perfect! Suppose I should've looked on Youmagine earlier. Cheers,
  2. @smithy I'm trying to get adjust the axels on an S5 as they are definitely not perpendicular. On the UM2 and UMO+ there were printed guides / jigs you could use to do that. Are there files for the S5? I can make some if none exist yet, but figured I'd ask before I start making my own.
  3. Hey Matt, Can you post some pictures of the strings and blobs you're talking about? Retraction is a good place to start looking, but there are lots of things that could be contributing. What kind of machine are you using and what kind of filament? If you're on a UM2 and up the retraction settings are going to be on your machine under the material settings, though you should also be adjust them in Cura. It will depend on the version of Cura you are using, but on the most current (2.3 I think...) you can setup your own material by going to Settings > Material > Manage Materials. From
  4. So I just spent a very scientific 20 minutes sprinkling and spraying water on both sides of my glass plate. Not sure is this qualifies as "the water test," but it does seem like there is some repeatable difference between the two sides. I still am not 100% on it though. When I sprinkled water on both sides they seemed to behave just about the same, which makes sense as they are literally either side of the same piece of glass. What was interesting though was when I ran each side under the sink and let the water run off. The side with the sticker shed the water much faster and more cleanly th
  5. Update: I tried my usual settings again but with some different filament and it worked as expected. So it seems like my problem was the filament and not the printer. That's still worrisome since it was the Ultimaker PLA that shipped with the machine though...
  6. I'm no stranger to the atomic method and have used it a bunch of times on UM2's with the Olsson block upgrade. I just got a UM2+ and am trying to follow their best practices for changing out nozzles by doing an Atomic clean of the nozzle before taking it out. Only problem is I can't get it to work like I used to. In the past I would heat the nozzle up 210 or 230 depending on what I had loaded, then back it down to 85-105 and pull up. Worked every time with a very satisfying sound. Now on the Um2+ if I let it get down to 100 the filament won't come up. It feels stuck. I have to increase the
  7. Hi Emil, Can you post some pictures or videos of the problem as it is happening? I haven't worked with the UM 2Go, but I'm guessing the print head movement is still controlled by belts, pulleys and motors. When the Y axis isn't moving can you hear the motor shaking? A while back one of my stepper motors died and it took me a while to figure it out. Have you tried using the "move axis" option in your pinter menu? You can also use pronterface to try and manually control the x and y axis motors. This way you can see which motors are working (or not) without having to run a print / heatup your
  8. Netfabb is also a really good free tool for inspecting / measuring / fixing STL's. My guess is that your part is just too thin. Try scaling it up and seeing if it shows up in the sliced views.
  9. This will add the code that UM2 uses to 'turn on' the 5V fan. This will make the 'little fan' to turn on, as soon the hotend reach 40C PLEASE you will be the first to test this, can you tell us if it works? If so we can ask @amedee to past this area from Experimental to the normal generator. ALSO.. I HIGHLY recommend that you set the 'Fan minimum PWM' to at least 50-80. And! Choose 'Fan kickstart' to at least 200 ms (the setting that UM2 firmware uses for their fans) Please, after checking this could you post the results? EDIT NOTE: There's no real need to touch any other setting, unles
  10. Finished the upgrade yesterday and though everything was working, but it seems like my third fan isn't turning on. I'm guessing that should be an "always on" fan to actively cool the insulator and such yeah? I plugged it into the fan 5v port on the board. Is there something I need to do in the firmware to activate that port? Thanks again for the guide. It's given my UMO+ a new lease on life! want to get this fan thing sorted out before anything bad happens...
  11. Are these the default PID settings for the UMO+? I've been looking all over for these! Much thanks!
  12. Glad to hear it! I think I'll end up doing something similar to insulate the heater block. Any chance you can post those original PID settings? I stupidly changed mine using Marlin's PID autotune and forgot to write down the originals. I've reloaded the firmware, but that didn't reset the PID settings on the machine for some reason. Thanks for the tips!
  13. I've tried changing the PID settings on the fly using the Ulti-Controller but still am having pretty big temperature swings and some not so great prints. The biggest drop happens once the fans come one and aside from any air bouncing off the print plate, none of the fans are blowing on the heater itself. My suspicion is that it is either a current / voltage problem or just a PID settings issue. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers,
  14. I've recently installed the E3D V6 hotend on my UMO+ using the existing heater block, heater, and pt100. Unfortunately, I haven't had much success printing yet. The biggest problem seems to be the temperature variation. I'll overshoot the set point, then fall under, and then slowly build back up and hold at the set point ± 2 C. That is until the fans kick on, at which point my nozzle temp drops 10 - 15 C and pretty much never makes it back up to the set point, at least not in enough time to make an acceptable print. I say that because is dose seem like the temperature starts to climb, but oh
  15. Would that work? Would the UM2+ hotend / fan assembly work on a UMO+?
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