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Everything posted by kmanstudios

  1. OK, so now I have the small print done and ready to show. It will be up soon for everybody to get the model, g-code and project file. Just juggling a few things right now.... This is sitting in a pan I got to let the PVA slurry and bottom of the print separate from the glass. Then, once it comes off, onto the bowl where all the PVA can soak. I really had to let this soak a while so it would let go of the pokey thingy on the deflector dish...... And here, I am harvesting all my PVA that I can. I even put all the towers in and get the bits between layers of materials. Squishes out like an
  2. When I look at the circle in the side of the case, I see the same 'boxy look' as I was looking at in the original post. I was looking at the curves of the vertical circle and not the sides as the sides or top. To do a fair comparison, it would ideally need to be a print of the two shapes in the two materials as each type of shape presents its own challenges. I ran into that using cubes to test lamination and such and it failed miserably on something with curves. Just curious of you could do a side by side comparison of the same shape with the two different materials. I ask because I ju
  3. Yeah...It should have gone to the filament area.....I was originally thinking that it would be a question of the new presets, but that seems to not be the case.
  4. That is interesting. I've been playing with annealing the materials I am playing with. Thanks!
  5. I am printing my first Polycarbonate prints and experimenting with PVA supports and such. Ain't no flex in Polycarbonate as far as I can tell. I will be posting a G-Code, Project file and models once I am satisfied with the results. Will that suffice? It will not damage your nozzle. Carbon Fiber can wear out a brass nozzle quickly from what I understand. Saving the sheckles for the cool new print cores that are now coming out to do Carbon Fiber and other brass killing filaments meself.
  6. Click on the model you want to print in a color you have loaded. The go to the 'Per Model' Settings on the left hand side, at the bottom, just above the 'eye' graphic. There you can give each model in your build area almost all of the settings available. Just hit select and you can load all the settings you want. The top right of the flyout menu is where you change extruders. Hope this helps.
  7. This is true. But, when you are using the dial to change temps and flows to make settings, it does mess things up a bit. :( But, as you say, better than nothing.
  8. So far, I am testing materials just to see if I can get it to work. Thusly, I have not printed high objects in NinjaFlex. BUt from what I researched in the interwebby, it seems most are not high rez objects except gaskets (and that may just be the way it is as my gasket tests came out much cleaner...no real curves or angles). Once I make it through my material stashes, I will get back onto refining the technique whilst going for higher resolution for my own purposes. Just as an aside, I did find a way to make a solid rubbery surface with a bonded 'fuzzy' surface by just playing a bit.
  9. Instead of an edit, I am making note that the large Enterprise is on hold as I print out a polycarbonite sample for the VA prosthetics division. First time printing PC and giving it a shot. As a funny aside, the box and spool are mislabeled as transparent, but is black. LOL PC is PC I guess and for experiments, does it really matter?
  10. Thank you. As i learn, and make many, many mistakes I want people to learn from my clumsy hands what NOT to do in a lot of cases and the things I discover. i am a very bad communicator on a social level, but I think, not so bad on the tech stuff.....maybe:P This piece was not designed for 3D Printing. It was designed to show things in my classroom. That is why I searched for very, very accurate plans and worked to make this as accurate as possible. These are the images it was created for: And an animation I made for the fun of it: And, by the way, I've been KmanStudios for alm
  11. I've been making a few prints and I would like to change the speed when it gets to spindly layers to that it does not move the thin parts around so much. I have noticed that, say, when printing a very sharp cone, that a large base can be printed quite quickly, but that same speed will deform the thin parts at top due to the inertia of the nozzle. I figure it can be done in code, but I know nothing about gcode at this time and it seems it could be either a plug in or something. Yes? No?
  12. I will definitely look into that as I do get occasional printhead communication errors. LOL
  13. It looks more like a print resolution issue on the top. Think of the layer height as if it was a low rez jpeg type image. The lower the resolution, the blockier the image. Same thing here. If you went to, say a 0.6 layer height, you would get a much cleaner surface and better 'curvature'. If you printed the ring on its side, you would get the 0.4 nozzle size as your x/y resolution while the Z resolution would not really betray any issues since it is a straight/vertical line.
  14. Just a hopeful hint that the clumsy noob here can help others just learning like myself. OK, this is a follow-up thread on the Enterprise as it was chock full of surprises. A bunch of pics with stages of development. First, this is the Enterprise as I originally printed it with a working stand design (Third redesign). The Enterprise fails mostly because of the material I chose plus a detail or two were too small for decent printing. The material curled a bit on the leading edge of the Saucer and the Deflector Dish needed to be expanded to print at this resolution: 0.1MM/100 Microns. The
  15. For school use, your student, or co-students, will have a blast. And, for school use, it will be perfect as it has a good design for ease of use. My only complaint (and you really have to spend megabucks to overcome this) is that you need to tote a laptop when scanning. There are some good youtube videos on operation. But with the newer Sense 2 it is easier to work.
  16. I have one. It is not bad. Not great. It is a good value. I would say it depends on the size of your scan target and the detail needed. Just know that in my research, I found that to get an appreciable amount of difference in quality required a jump in price of more than 5 times the cost. That was a year ago, and tech does evolve. To get a real difference, you are looking at a starting investment of about 9K USD. That would be the Artec Evo Light. Also know that the scanner has trouble with scanning anything below a certain darkness. Tried scanning some of my students and those with very d
  17. No...That's the clumsy noob at work. When I was a bit more green about some things, I had some build up around a nozzle. Bad build up. But I tried to get the fan guard open and it bent too much. Erin at fbrc8 told me how to fix it. But I bent it too much. And there, you have the story, The clumsy noob at work. I used to get test machines back in the day because I would tell people that I would really be able to test the ruggedness of their machines and software. But it works like a charm
  18. And nobody even tried....oh well...Here is it before I get the supports off of it. I'll post a pic once the stand is printed and things are cleaned up. The Enterprise was the first ship that was not a flying saucer or tube style rocket. It was designed by Matt Jeffries. As an oddity, he designed it to be what we consider to be 'upside down'. It was Gene Roddenberry that flipped it over. The model was made from plans by Alan Sinclair and are recognized as the most accurate available. Especially since there there were actually three filming models. Link to plans with all the trimmings and ve
  19. I put this up in a different thread, but thought it may be ok to have some fun with this. I am playing with different support settings and using towers and conical supports. Really funky patters it lays down. Can you figure out what this will be? It may be easy, mebbe not. Correct guess get's a Stan Lee 'No Prize' and a copy of the model when it gets put up as a new print....just like everybody else
  20. This will be the last post I make unless I get another error. It seems to be printing ok with the old firmware on my machine. In the last third of a 30 hour print. But this is three successful in a row, so pretty darned happy. Has the Dev team figured out what could be happening? Here is the beginning of the print: What will it be? Correct guess get's a Stan Lee 'No Prize' and a copy of the model when it gets put up as a new print....just like everybody else Just a note: I will be changing service providers soon and there will be a blip in the images until my pointers are going in
  21. I use a slurry of recycled PVA to put on the glass. My theory (and, someone correct me if I am wrong) is that it puts a layer that can dissolve away between the PETG and the glass. I have had not pullups or warps with this method. An alternative to the slurry I mentioned would be the glue stick or a 1:10 mix of PVA glue (White Glue/Elmers type) and water.
  22. No problem. I will say it has the added benefit of being able to label and archive materials and special situations by exporting them. As for most correct, well, if it works and nobody else has a solution, well, there ya go
  23. Definitely lower than PC. Glass transition is around 100 deg. C, Vicat softening around 96 deg. C. Thank you I wish these companies would be more forthcoming in their data/spec information.
  24. Just finished the second print of 27.75 hours and it came out fine. So far, no stopping errors whereas before, it would die somewhere around 10 - 13 hours consistently.
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