kmanstudios

I wonder why I would be running almost half your usage. Did you have anything loaded? Extra Plugins? I have a model loaded with layer view active, and LAN printer connection. That may be the reason... but I don't find it abnormal, today we have dual core / 16 GB memory rigs, so no pb... I did not either until I ran the tests above to see how it worked. It definitely built up from job to job (Files loaded). Although it 'reset' to a nominal level when cleared, when the models were loaded, it kept growing although I was using the same files. I did find that odd. It may also be why I get different times sometimes on the same file. It can be as much as one or more hours on a complicated print.

I just did a test. When I start Cura, it registers about 375MB in task manager. I loaded a file (STL 357,723KB listed in explorer). Cura then registered at 2,643.9 MB in solid view/2,677.2MB Layers in task manager. Then, clearing the build plate Cura 2,661.3 MB in task manager. Loading another file (STL 263,510KB listed in explorer) Cura then registered at 3,728.1 MB in solid view/4,107.6MB Layers in task manager. Then, clearing the build plate Cura 3,989.2 MB in task manager. I reloaded the first file (STL 357,723KB listed in explorer). Cura then registered at 5,053.6 MB in solid view/5,053.7MB Layers in task manager. ande reLoading the second file (STL 263,510KB listed in explorer) Cura then registered at 5,705.1 MB in solid view/5,881.2MB Layers in task manager. But, relaunching Cura it went to 374.9MB. So, it does seem to grow while in use, but seems to release it when closed out.

I wonder why I would be running almost half your usage. Did you have anything loaded? Extra Plugins?

I just checked with an unloaded file and my 2.5 only registers at 372.2 MB. That seems in line with other programs running. It really jumps when I load models, but I have a tendency to use hyper large models (vertex count).

Just out of curiosity, how are other people's time estimates? I am using Cura 2.5 and the UM3+ and I am finding the time estimates are an 'overestimation'. Sometimes by quite a bit, sometimes not. Now, I am not complaining. I would much rather have estimates be overestimated than underestimated. Better to manage time as expectations. An example would be that I am finishing up my 14" Enterprise print and the estimate was off by about 8 hours or so. Instead of finishing up about 9AM in the morning, it is finishing up at 12:30AM. Again, not a complaint. Just curious.

I wonder how the different environments would affect the profiles, even if they could be created. I have made a few profiles, most are under revision as I learn more. An example would be the profile I uploaded for NinjaFlex. Worked fine for me. But, the problem seems to be that the filament does not want to feed through the bowden tube. I never had that problem. It never binded up or had trouble feeding. But most people talk of having to do a lot of modding to make it work at all in feeding. I don't think the profile would help in that regard.

Those are nice links Thanks! Me time has been spent on other things/research and it is nice to have a good pointer and outside ideas.

Oh...you literally meant a lighter with flame! LOL I can see that. I bet some are easier to work with than others. Have you done this with reasonable success? I am pretty darned clumsy with some things.

OK, this is waiting for the 14 inch Enterprise to finish printing in about 36 hours. So, this will take a while. I have taken the model, supersized it up to 39.5 inches/1004mm, and broken it up, tabbed it for assembly and this is the first shot of the pieces and size relationship in Cura with the UM3+ as the build area. This is just the Port Nacelle assembly. All pieces have been designed to print flat. We will see how well that holds up, but that is the theory so far. And, yes, the tabs and slots are a "P" for the port assembly. Starboard will have an "S". Just thought it would make things easy. X-Ray View I am putting the 14" up, but not so sure that someone would want something so large. I'm doing it to learn how to break up, tab and manifold a difficult model to eliminate the dreaded "red" areas in x-ray views. Designed for printing at 0.2mm (Draft) at the least. Yes? No?

OK, just finished cutting up the Supersized Enterprise with all the attendant parts. 29 in all. That includes the ship and all the tabs that go into the slots to guide and hold the pieces. But, this thread is long enough. When the large Sized print comes off, in about 40 hours, I will post pics for that and then this thread is finished on my end. The supersized Enterprise will be a whole noobverse learning thingy. That thing was a bear to engineer LOL o_O

The filament welding tools I have seen are for 1.75 filament. And I may look into the make your own as drayson suggested. And....Lighter Method? Please do tell.

Are those stiff enough to poke through solided up, cooked materials?

What material are you using for the hot pull? Are you also up for reaming it out with a needle? I have used an old airbrush needle when needed. Gotta be real careful with that or you can make the nozzle bore misshapen.

I like the fact that people can find issues and report them to be fixed. As much as I try to be thorough, I am sure someone will find something I missed. All in the pursuit of becoming a better modeler and printer

The thing with the re-mastered versions is that they CGI'd the Enterprise, so it would remain consistent throughout the set. During the series, however, they had several versions and recycled stock shots from the first pilot onward. They even used the AMT model for the outside shots through the windows in "The Trouble with Tribbles". The original AMT version was not that accurate and the conning tower was a bit out of whack. Betcha by golly wow, though, that I spent me hard earned sheckles on one or two versions. I even have two of the Polar Lights 1/1000 and the full series of the 1/350 of all the Enterprises. Still, never saw a phaser canon and the phaser beams came out from the saucer in two beams....not one cannon. They also added missing special effects in places where they missed it or could not afford it. Still cool though

I've been trying to figure a way to join them to continue their length for use in printing. But I haven't put much thought into it as I am doing other things that are occupying my time. But it is a thought I will explore.

As I am waiting on the large 14 inch model to print, here is the beginning of the supersized model. Parts are not complete as I just got the main parts cut properly. But I wanted to make sure things sat on the build plate. 'Just barely' would be the words I would use.

It is amazing how that basic design has ricocheted through 50+ years in one form or another and all those forms look so cool. and, as teeny weeny as that model is you made, wow, it held the detail nicely Oddly, my first print was not supported when I got my UM3+. I am not sure why, but it did not print with the support material. First day in the noobverse...somehow it was not feeding properly. It was a Batman Bust I found on the net. I was too chicken to go beyond that. Just out of curiosity, how was the x-ray view on that model? Most I have found are really bad with red stuff all over the place as randyinla said about his model.

Ahhh, but what version? I took a look at the model link you posted and got a bit of a chuckle as they got into a discussion about the 'phaser cannon' on the bottom of the saucer. I'm pretty studious and never saw it before, but, it all depends on what version someone decides to do. Sometimes it can come out a composite of versions. You looked at the sliced version at work? You work at a 3D printing company or somewhere with the tech? I be jealous mon.... Seriously, I would love to be in that environment. Forums and working at home is ok, but a bit of a vacuum. But to be able to be around different tech and machines and just learn and share....sigh.....

OK, I just started the large print with the new paint guidelines put in. I made a few changes to the settings and the print time is up to 72 hours. Still better than 81 While that is going, I am supersizing the model. It will be cut up into sections for printing. Total length is 39.5 inches/1004mm. 8) This will have a set of slots and pegs to match up while allowing for flat printing. The paint guidelines have been modified to this size as to not be as intrusive as possible. At this size, 1/4 slice of the Saucer Section, turned about 45° Just fits the buildplate area. It can hold smaller pieces like the pegs for assembly, but really squeezes into the UM3 buildplate. I may have found something close to the size limit of this shape based on the UM3 printing area. Once the large model is printed and proofed, I will upload it as well. I wanna make sure it works so that people have a good printing experience. When the Supersized one gets up is for debate since it will take forever to proof and will have to do other things as well. This is when I wish I had at least three printers. One to do prints with lower temp materials One to do higher temp materials One to futz around on and test things while the other two are engaged with real work. It is a goal, I would think I have decided against putting up project files and gcodes unless requested. It occurred to me that it would be specific to the UM3 and Cura. For instance, if I open the files in Simplify 3D (yes I own that, but so far, prefer Cura...may change, but that is as it stands now) things are slid over and not aligning.

Thank you. It was nice to see the pages again, restored to a pleasant experience.

I was thinking and would be curious if you looked at the model in the layers view when you slice your models. It would be a good way to see what would or may be lost. Things such as the deflector dish and the pokey thing may show as missing from being too small or thin. What slicer are you using?

That makes sense. At first, I thought that the model I uploaded had an error in it. Hence a bit of panic on my end LOL But, yeah, a lot of those models are not designed for small print and, as you say, those little things will just go away. Happened to me the first time I printed my own model. That is why I had to beef up the deflector dish for small prints. It is also why I am not going to put the raised letters and paint guidelines on the small one. It would be so big that it would look odd. That is why I did it on the large model and the one I am super-sizing.

Wait...that is not my model you printed.....My model has 'By Kman' stamped in the bottom.

I did do a download and checked to see if I messed something up. This is the downloaded file in X-Ray. Yours should match this image.