Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by kmanstudios

  1. Actually, I thought the question spoke well as a general idea (But I am an extreme doof in spoken communications), but here you go All prints were made without supports and using PVA as the brim. This is the basic cube test, clean as a whistle: This is an exterior using the same settings, Really 'crunchy' results: This is an interior of the same print, just as crunchy: This a reset of the material settings from the exterior (smooth as silk) And finally an interior shot with the adjusted settings: So, in general theory, there is a difference between straight line results from
  2. I completely agree as each scenario you explore will be dependent on a few factors such as brand used and environmental conditions.It will be a completely personal choice requiring the exploration mentioned here.
  3. I think that would be the ultimate test. If you don't like it, nobody else will/why risk it?I have printed with NinjaFlex, Ninja SemiFlex and Cheetah and a smidgen of printing with Soft PLA. None of those had an oily feel to them, and I cannot say about the smell as I do not have a good sniffer. And frankly, have not put any of this stuff in my mouth.
  4. OK, I have printed a lot of cubes and cones and such. Do so for every material and type and degree of detail (draft, fine, etc) I am testing. Some materials I have tested, those settings apply across the board for each detail level, i.e. geometric objects as mentioned previously, as well as organic shapes with swoops and curvy angles and such. But, some of the materials, when printing the test objects do not do so well when going from geometric to organic. So, my noobishness makes me wonder if it is me, or the materials and is something to adjust for? Thanks
  5. There are many alternatives. Hairspray, PVA glues/slurry/gluestick, and some plastics don't need a sticky layer if the glass is cleaned and temped correctly. It's a lot of reading and asking LOL
  6. I would think that the heat would be more of an issue than anything else. Check your datasheets to see what temps are being listed. Since most are some sort of TPU or TPU like material, water resistance should not be a problem. PLA would not do well for that though. It is too soft when heated beyond skin temps.
  7. Just updated the firmware. Went to print and noticed that extruder 2 (PVA) worked as expected when putting down the initial puddle. But, when extruder 1 (Non-PVA) went into action, it, somehow, started outwards from the puddle, reversed course and ran the nozzle back through the puddle and dragged a glob around. Not good at all as I had to pause and pull it off and then let it resume.
  8. I have CPE+ and have gotten it to work with PVA. I'm fine tuning the settings as I try different methods to find a better sweet spot than I have accomplished so far. I'll let you know how it goes when I get through a buncha tests this weekend.I'm just waiting on a PETG and PVA print to finish. I'm approaching this like the nylon/PVA printing. But am finding some chemical incompatibilities. Brand related? I dunno.....
  9. I am in the process of checking out filaments and have found out that some of the 'off brands' are good for a variety of things. Not everything has to be high end and is a waste of money for certain projects. i.e. Sometimes better to use pewter than full on silver but it has its own quality as well. So, in my own weird way, I am agreeing with Krys above.
  10. I totally agree if something is going to be used orally for any length of time. Whilst I am still learning about how to read the data sheets, I too look for food safety ratings until I am better at understanding the nuances of materials and their data sheets.
  11. I have taken to exporting my material and print profiles via the configuration tab to create non-installation required backups. That way I can blow out the folder setup that Cura references and still reload (manually) the profiles. However, Having the same OS would probably be required unless the data is stored in a form that is transportable (ASCII, etc).
  12. Thank you for digging that up. I started to find pertinent information on Page 6 of the PDF link.It seems all safety issues are with the post processing or pre-processing of materials that create a dust from the material itself. But nothing that says it is safe for using in the mouth or mucus membranes when solidified. It is one of the best Data sheets I have seen, complete with testing parameters and such and not just results. It is odd though that the link I posted is broken and took someone who knew more about the material and manufacturer to find this important information. Thanks for
  13. Maybe have design flaws, but they are getting better and the 10 micron is not as important as the build area available. And the ability to make solid structures from materials not cleared yet or just now getting spare parts (Specific nozzle amendments) that increase other capabilities such as the Fiber Glass, Kevlar, and Carbon Fiber materials I will have to use eventually. But build area is really my biggest concern. And, the cost of a Raise 3D is worth it to find out and stress test a machine. There are others, but they are completely open and I'm not keen on that at all for a variety of
  14. Food safe materials are definitely the way to go as long as they meet your needs. Most of the things I am researching deal with contact with skin and trying to minimize the allergy issues. Right now my motto is, "If it's food safe, it is skin safe." At least until I find out otherwise and not accounting for extra issues like very specific allergies. Not everything can be safe for everybody, but some things can be safe for a vast majority of people. An example of general food safety would be your PET and PETG filaments as they are used in all sorts of products already and for the most part sh
  15. That's a lot of what I read. But upon finding out that I did not have pay extra money, and use recycling instead of new packaging and extra money (though cheap, it is extra) for another product, I just use what I already have and plenty of it. Kinda the 'whole buffalo' thing and not just using more things when I have plenty of supply. For instance.... I now have about a gallon of perfectly wonderful PVA slurry that is ready to be shaken, not stirred, and used at whim. Bond...Buildplate Bond......---tee hee
  16. Due to buildplate size I would go for the Raise3D N2+ as it can go to 10 microns. Buildplate size offers the ability to print large, single prints for structural integrity (not on that level of detail, but just large) as well as small things. My reseasrch has been more towards medical/prosthetic applications where detail can become that important. But, I like to push my equipment when I am learning. My motto is: I can't work it if I can't fix it and I can't fix it if I don't break it." LOL And my poor UM3+ is getting a beating at my clumsy hands and it still keeps on keeping on despite my be
  17. I just checked and they do not have the Safety Data Sheet available. All filaments will or should have one to check such things as bio-compatibility. Most things that are just coming into contact with tissue, especially mucous membranes, are more about what toxins are released through the material and not so much about sterilization as you can sterilize without heat (not the easiest way, but can be done). I would check the data sheets on the filaments. Here is the link to the page that has the "non-working" link to the MSDS. http://ngen-flex.colorfabb.com/what/
  18. Since all filaments I am testing are new to me, I have a question about Armadillo and Cheetah. The good......prints easy. The question: Upon printing Armadillo, I have found that it made a quite sturdy piece in one respect, but still more flexible than I would have thought. I ran a couple of models in both and it seems that Armadillo is not much, if any, stiffer than Cheetah. And, when I compare a similar size print with something like ABS (yuck) and Armadillo, the ABS is much stiffer. I don't know if it is stronger as stiffness can mean brittleness. But it is more flexible than I would hav
  19. I have had no real issues with printing with PVA on my UM3+. I have only used Matterhackers PVA and Ultimaker PVA and still quite the noob. But so far I have found my PVA works as expected (Well, as I expected) and I have also played with temps to try and cook it a bit or less to find ways to make it work. Most surfaces have no more issues in cleanliness where the PVA is and the general printer resolution used. My first PLA/PVA print printed flawlessly (second print ever). Or, I have lower expectations due to what I have received from external printing sources. That is one reason I am investi
  20. That is good to know. I just foresee a reason to go to this level at some point. I guess the biggest reason for the question was the specs listed have the 20 micron level listed, so I would think it would be a 'preset'. But, I guess that's what I get for trying to think. LOL I'll have to play with that whence I finish me filament tests. Thanks!!
  21. When I have gone there (The link you have posted) it just says "Latest..." How do you know which is the latest number vs what is on the machine?
  22. I have managed to tweak out a 0.04mm (40 microns) but cannot get a 0.02mm (20 microns) to come out right. I get all sorts of colored boxes. I will return to that once I finish playing with basic filaments and such to start to fine tune to that level when needed. BTW...I really did not see much difference (for my purposes so far) in the detail level. But I know it will come and will be trying to set that up.
  23. I have printed PETG just fine and like it very much. Still experimenting, but it does work. I started with the CPE profile because it had the closest temperature ranges.
  24. I agree. Very well done on all aspects. I'm actually going to use this as a way to get my electronics and programming skills jump started (never programmed Arduino, only games and that is not the same thing as I have to learn about boards and such) Great education all the way around and I can see ways that this will provide jumping off points.
  25. I am using a slurry from recycled PVA to coat my glass plate and have had no trouble with any peel ups or warping. But, I have no idea how the NinjaFlex compares. So many filaments to choose from to test. I haven't even finished testing all my filament types in the two months I have been printing, so I would be very interested to see your results.I am printing on the UM3+ so I have no idea how that compares to any other printer. It is my first printer, soooooo.....LOL
  • Create New...