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  1. Similar to the suggestions above, especially with flexible Nylons I would recommend to use a lower build plate temperature (30-40°C) and limit air flow (closed printer). It's best to limit build up of thermal stress in the material and avoid warpage than just focus on adhering better to the build plate.
  2. When your PVA has too much moisture, we recommend heating the filament for 2 hours at 45-55 °C. The easiest way to do this is by putting the spools on the heated build plate (for example in a carton box) at the required temperature (45-55 °C). Warning: do not use a household oven. Make sure that the PVA filament has cooled to room temperature before inserting it into the 3D printer.
  3. I see that you're changing your fast profile (with 0.2 layer height) to a 0.4 layer height. Speed settings are linked to the layer height, so this changes the settings to be not optimal anymore. Cura has a 0.4 layer height profile for 0.8 print cores. You can make them visible by assigning both extruder 1 and extruder 2 to a 0.8 print core and then select sprint (0.4 mm) in the profile options. This will result in much better print quality.
  4. Did you check if your BB print core may be partially clogged? https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23132-clogged-print-core
  5. Did you follow these steps to unclog your BB print core? https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23132-clogged-print-core. I think it could still have some residue of PVA that results in this underextrusion.
  6. From your pictures I can see that you use different settings for your PVA. Try the default settings first, that are optimized to print reliably. It doesn't look like underextrusion to me, however PVA doesn't print well in PLA settings or (zigzag) patterns.
  7. Dear @Oj00, Can you let me know if you contacted your reseller already? Was it an Ultimaker (translucent) spool? And was it 350 g or 750 g? I hope to hear more from you.
  8. Please note that Ultimaker Nylon is based on Polyamide 6/66. It's therefore normal that the properties are different than Nylon12 from Rigid.ink. The choice of one of these nylons will depend on the application.
  9. Dear @Oj00, I agree that your PVA shouldn't behave and look like this. Please contact your reseller so they can trace back which PVA you have received and come up with a solution.
  10. I would try to anneal the part as has been suggested: After the removal of the PVA, to fasten the removal of the excess water, heat treat your model for 4-6 hours at 75C (Warning: do not use a household oven). You could use your buildplate for this as well. Thin parts of Nylon can be very flexible and this increases after a water treatment. However, it does not dissolve like PVA does. Your part will improve again after the annealing procedure. If you need a more rigid part, you can also try to print it in CPE in combination with PVA.
  11. Hi @philippaulth It could be that there are still some residues of filament in your print core after a failed print that block proper extrusion of your PVA. Please follow these instruction to clean your BB print core: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23132-clogged-print-core. Let me know if you succeed. I recommend to continue with the default profiles and the BB print core. If you would need to dry your PVA, follow these instructions: Heating the filament for 2 hours at 45-55 °C. The easiest way to do this is by putting the spools on the heated build plate at the required temperat
  12. I advice you to use the default PVA profiles (triangular support and optimized speeds and temperatures) and try again. If your object is touching the build plate it should not make a layer of PVA at the bottom. You can check this by looking at the first layer. If this is not the case, you can give a negative value to Z (first disable automatically drop model to buildplate in cura - preferences). Alternatively, it is possible to set different values for roof/bottom of the interface at "support interface thickness". Good luck
  13. Unfortunately, ABS and PVA is not a good combination, due to insufficient adhesion and a difference in printing temperature. ABS with HIPS does print well, however HIPS needs to be dissolved in D-limonene, which is not a nice solvent to handle. More importantly, after dissolving the ABS part also gets partly affected and decreases in mechanical strength. Therefore this is not a suggested combination. PVA is working great in combination with PLA and with Nylon and I would suggest to try more with that at the moment.
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