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yyh1002

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Everything posted by yyh1002

  1. Thank you! I tested the code and half of it worked properly. The (1) lower build plate action is now exactly what I'm looking for. However the (4) raising has problem. After the tool change and moving to wipe position, the build plate would lower further instead of going up, resulted in printing in the air. I removed the (4) code and now it can successfully print with half implementation. I feel like that the pure Z move creates less vibration with the frame, and Z move speed and duration is not affected by XY movement, therefore result in a more constant noise. But it does add extra time to the print.
  2. Hey guys, I'm trying to separate the movement of XY and Z during nozzle change because the noise of XYZ moving at the same time is very loud and different. In a nozzle switching action, my goal is: 1. Lower the build plate 2. Move head to the dock 3. Head to wipe position 4. Raise build plate 5. Head to print position. Looking at the firmware, I'm guessing this part in Marlin_main.cpp is what I should change: if IS_TOOLCHANGE_ENABLED { if (IS_WIPE_ENABLED && (printing_state < PRINT_STATE_END)) { // limit fan speed during priming printing_state = PRINT_STATE_PRIMING; check_axes_activity(); } // execute toolchange script current_position[Z_AXIS] = destination[Z_AXIS]; if (nextExtruder) { cmdBuffer.processT1(moveZ, IS_WIPE_ENABLED); } else { cmdBuffer.processT0(moveZ, IS_WIPE_ENABLED); } } But I'm not sure how to change the processT1 line to separate the moveZ from T1. Or maybe I'm looking at the wrong place. I don't have programming background. Please help me with it. Thanks
  3. I tried export just two meshes again. I needed to transfer the model into mesh before export to make sure the overlapping part has the exact same mesh so the auto generated interlacing works perfect. I printed another one at 70% scale and 0.1mm layer, with fuzzy skin of 0.1 thickness and 0.2 distance. The skin finish is almost injection mould quality. The randomness of fuzzy skin makes the color mixing a bit messy. Is there a way to make fuzzy skin more regular with constant zigzags shifting every layer?
  4. Thanks for clarifying this. In this case I think it was because I export the overlapping geometry together with each color and the mesh possibly turned out slightly different. I tried export the overlap geometry by itself and the interlacing seem to work just fine.
  5. I tried this earlier. It works most of the time but the interlace is not as consistant as manual cut. Sometime the part shows same color for a few millimeters. It would be awesome if the feature is more reliable.
  6. I found that in my case the touching problem was caused by UltiGcode flavour. I switched back to Marlin and everything became perfect.
  7. I tried printing with the post processing script but the new head still go touch the model first. I'm using 3.4.
  8. Oops, my appologies to Tim. It’s been too long since I read the article so I just jumped in and refered to the author. Thanks for correcting me. I didn’t try the CuraEngine branch by Tim. I literally cut the objects in disks in modeling software.
  9. I did some testing on creating the third color with dual extruder, inspired by Tim Kuipers’ greyscale printing research and the effect on prime tower https://ultimaker.com/learn/3d-hatching-grayscale-printing-on-the-ultimaker-3 [gr5 fixed link] Interlacing two colors can create third color on vertical surface quite consistantly as long as the two nozzles are properly calibrated. I then tested the idea with an astronaut model by BZH1 meant for 3-4 color (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2609610). I prepared the model with Rhino, manually cut the third color into slices, and imported into Cura together with the other two colors. Surprisingly, Cura was able to hollow out the third color instead of printing it as a solid piece. The print came out has a nice tone thanks to the additional color. It is showing mixing inconsistancy possibly because of heated bed shape change or one of the magnets on my mark2 coming loose during the print. It would be nice if CURA can add a third color choice and slice the part with half tone treatment as an experimental feature.
  10. I changed the file to the following to finally get rid of the error:
  11. Thanks I didn't know that. I also couldn't see the script until I copied Mark2Tweaks.py to C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 3.1\plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts
  12. Hey guys, I'm having a little problem causing low quality dual color prints: On every layer, the switched printhead always go touch the printed part first before printing the prime tower. This make the oozed filament stick to the print instead of the tower. Really annoying. It seems to be caused by the way mark2 insert the tool change code in cura. It inserts it on the last point on the last printhead pass. For example, in this image, after the yellow head 1 print, head 2 gets ready at the switch bay, it goes to point 1 first then goes to point 2, which leaves the oozed filament on the model. This issue has forced me to turn on ooze shield for dual color print. And also because of this my cura makes worse dual color print than s3d. I tested this on 2.7, 3.1, 3.2. Is anyone else having the same issue? Is it possible to improve it? Thanks
  13. To be specific, is it 16/32 teeth ratio for the pulley?
  14. Hey guys, Just wondering if anyone's having problem with cura 3.2 freezing. Both cura 3.2 and 3.2.1 freeze and crash very often if I load and select a very simple model. I didn't had the issue with 3.1 at all. Since I didn't find any recent freezing report on github, I wonder if it's cause by the altered files for mark2. And this is why I ask here.
  15. Did you check the initial printing temperature setting? If not, unhide and take a look at it. I remember cura have 10 degree lower initial printe temp as default.
  16. Is it possible to adjust standby temp in firmware? I’ve had some succesfull dual color and pva prints with UltiGcode which seems to have 100 degree standby temp. What temp magic would marlin do other than the default 175 standby temp? Nozzle 2 only print would need dedicated start code for Marlin flavor. I wonder whether the extruder 1/2 start code settings could do the intelligent start code generation for the two nozzles.
  17. The original UM2 heat sink is probably not efficient enough to cool two nozzles, especially they are connected to the same heat sink. There might be oozing if the inactive nozzle is not properlly cooled.
  18. My solution was two additional nuts below the coupler
  19. Thanks for the update! The new definition totally worked with quality options in CURA 3.2b. Creating and updating profiles finally works properly. I've been creating multiple machines to have dedicated setting for head 1 print, head 2 print, PVA support and PVA interface only print. And I find UltiGcode flavor works more handy than Marlin. The start code for Marlin would heat up and prime both nozzle in all conditions. But in UltiGcode mode, only the necessary nozzle will be heated up.
  20. The motor is 1.8 degree same as UM2+ motor. If your are using UM2+ board and UM2+ feeder, the default 369 estep should probably work fine.
  21. That makes more sense. I'll try it later. I set the machine at 3000mm/s2 acceleration and 20m/s jerk on the menu.
  22. I found the super slow acceleration setting would create round corners. In the photo below, both of the cubes were printed with extruder 2. The left grey cube is printed with default acceleration and jerk settings in the Mark2 profile, and the right white cube is printed with disabled acceleration and jerk control. The over extrusion around the corners is quite obvious in the case of low acceleration. I suspect the reason is that low acceleration setting would make actual print speed very different from the constant feedrate. Resulting in over extrusion at places where the head is slowing down or accelerating, and under extrustion at where there it reaches target speed.
  23. Hi foehnsturm, I had the same issue as conny_g. I measured the step file and found the total depth for magnets in the coupling and head is bigger than 6mm. Looking at the assembly instruction, it feels like the photos used 6x4mm magnets instead of the 6x3mm in BOM. I therefore modified the model and made the holes 1mm shallower. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mark2-modified-parts
  24. Temperature resistance of 110-120 °C and print temp at only 170-230, this stuff seems magic.
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