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  1. HI SandervG, Well, the page is all different, so I'm not sure if it still exists anywhere, but I expected to find the information I was looking for at this link: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011490220-Check-for-play-on-the-axles-of-the-Ultimaker-3 Which is when I usually check the play on my axles. The prior documentation had this whole list of loosen all the set screws, then tighten them in a certain order, and then line up the print head using calibration sticks which it also had a link to download the STL, and then continue on. It was pretty i
  2. I noticed that the maintenance instructions on the Ultimaker website are way less detailed now than they used to be - particularly when checking play on axles. Previously, it would outline step by step which side to tighten first, followed by utilizing the calibration sticks, etc. I haven't been able to find this anywhere anymore - I used to just go step by step methodically every so often (more or less depending on how much I printed during that period of time). Does anyone have any insight on this? Or perhaps it's tucked away somewhere? It's just odd to me that there's less
  3. Thanks so much I'll try some of those things. I'll look at the model as well, but just found it weird.
  4. I wasn't sure if it mattered for the version of Cura, so I saved both. Cura3_6_UM3_nes_testhinge.3mf Cura4_4_UM3_nes_testhinge.3mf
  5. Printer is an ultimaker 3. Running Cura 4.4 and now 3.6. So I've had a troubleshooting adventure for random stuff in the last few months. Some of which was hardware wear-and-tear, but generally I had some weird areas of some of my prints where it seemed like I was suffering from some under extrusion (so my troubleshooting tended to focus on that). Today, just because the areas of the prints that would be messed up were so consistent, I looked at the layers. I thought maybe my 3d model was off, but then I decided to install older (and newer) versions of cura as well a
  6. Hi all, I am one who is supposed to provide some dump files - so my bad I should do that. I did/do have issues with active leveling, but I can get it to work. I apologize if you guys have already done this, but these are the 3 things I needed to do to get active leveling working. Point 2 being the most important. 1) I did do a manual level once (to make parts of it easier I did print a 1mm thick piece of plastic and the 14mm jig that someone else has to help with the initial parts of leveling). 2) I need to have my active leveling set to always, so it has
  7. Final (?) update - more or less solved all my issues: TLDR; replaced feeder assembly and linear bearings to fix my issues. 1) "Vibrations"/Wiggly lines: I replaced the linear bearings on the X/Y axle rods in the print head. The bearings were catching just slightly, more so at higher speeds than lower speeds. I'm going to guess I've been over-lubricating on the monthly maintenance. There was actually a buildup of what looked like sort of burnt oil, which probably led to those bearings going bad (sooner). My infill pattern lines are now straight as can be, as well a
  8. Any updates to this? I’m experiencing something sort of similar along Y axis. Was about to replace the bearings to see.
  9. Out of curiousity how did the fatigue affect your prints? I have some weird things happening so,etimes and also print with an enclosure and just trying to eliminate variables.
  10. Ok, another symptom to diagnose in this whole thing... Here is a view of part of the infill print. You can see some of the lines end up squiggly (the squigglyness is why I asked about "vibrations" before). Are squiglies a result of underextrusion? I feel like this is a related symptom of my overall print issue. I also noticed that if I did print a square/cube - the left side has the worst finish. So the Y direction on the leftmost side. Not sure what to make of all these pieces of information. Bobby
  11. Eh, I spoke too soon. Later layers still showed the under extrusion or gappy layers.
  12. So just to update: I ended up doing all the maintenance again, but the two biggest things is I just full on replaced the bowden tubes and collet clips, and really took apart the extruders including the nylon gear wheel and knurled wheel. It helped immensely. There's still like a touch of the under extrusion, but it's significantly better. THe one thing I noticed about the extruder wheel (the one having the issue), is that the bearing might be going bad? I took the nylon wheel off leaving the knurled wheel/axle in that bearing, cleaned it off as there was some ground
  13. solid cubes still showed the gaps with 100% infill. The increased temperature was a little bit of a mixed bag. It often helped a little more at the sacrifice of losing some dimensional accuracy in corners especially (globs). I think probably speed more of a culprit than heat. I do notice on some lines that are layed down, the bead goes from a pretty straight smooth bead to having a little wiggle/waviness on the edge. Wonder if this is an indicator of anything else? ultimately, this is not a huge deal, mostly cosmetic, but I can't remember it ever being quite like
  14. I see. I still have issues with active leveling on the latest firmware, which has been my primary issue since the 5.2ish firmware. I've been meaning to send a log dump but have to find a USB drive. Essentially I need to have the active leveling on to always, otherwise the print following a leveling pushes so hard into the glass essentially no filament is pushed out (or such a thin transparent layer I need to scrape it off resulting in dust). Manual leveling also is fine as long as I have it set to never. So in summary: Leveling frequency to never, Manual level
  15. Yeah, perhaps the vibrations not part of it. I thought the belt rubbing might have been some misalignment, but I readjusted all those things last night. So I do get slightly better print quality overall, but still the same issues with diagonal gaps. It is not just the first few layers over infill, but it's also not 100% infill, although I've tried settings like a thicker top layer. I'll try the cube. I thought it was underextrusion as well, but the first layer does print very well (although I guess the settings for first layer are usually a higher temp and slower speed by defau
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