HaryPlotter

Great update! Is there any changes to the r1 or r2 feeders, or do we still have to go with the r1-Feeders?

😆😂😂 word up! That´ s what I am afraid of... I heard of people buying a tesla just for using the powercells i.g. one created a ship with that kind of drive. But that is 100% me. I start out with a small UPS and then I end up with the "diesel"-Version which isn´ t quit economical regarding the printer and the things I print (including the fails). Anyhow I thank you for your input and your thought about the UPS-calculations and I will keep that in mind when eventually buying one. The second print went great though (endured 3 days because it was a 100% infill print because of the pressure the thing had to cope with)... t was a decent print! Greetings Daniel PS: Question/Answer regarded as "answered" or"solved" whatever suits you best...

Hi there, after a print of 3d+ failed the second day becauso of a lighning and a 1sec power-off I will want to think about a UPS for the UM3. But before buying an atomic reactor or 2 Mignon AAA-Batteries I would like to know what would be a good value to look for when investing in a new UPS. I kind of read here that the UM3 uses 350 Watts but that is only what I read and I own an extended version which might have different values. I don´ t know. Anyhow maybe someone already did the calc. and can give me a hint on what kind of values to look for whne purchasing a good UPS. A best it should be able to keep the current rolling for a time so that I can still react when I´ m not at home. Maybe, just maybe there would be one to hook up to the net and it could be able to call you up and be set to a nice voice (M/F/D) to tell you that the print will fail in X minutes, whe not at home to save the print.. I´ ld feel like McClane to save it! Greetings

Hi Smithy, thanks for the answer(s). The workaround I understood. It is a petty though that the printer isn´ t made to do that easier.. For the Material profiles I understood that my printer isn´ t compatible with the filaments offered .. by the vendor. Nonetheless I use those filaments for a half eternity and most of them seem to work just fine... so I probably have to think about other reasons why they should block it (which I don´ t);O) So far so good. Hope to hear from some good new inventions soon! PS: It´ s a petty that the S5 now will not allow for the automatic calibration to be turned off.. A new printer should come with a laser guided calibration (more accurate, more reliable, no mooving parts...) PPS: I don ´ t know if they solved it jet, but I was having alot of trouble with rols that were just out of filament, when I was out of home. So I was working on that solution but in lack of programming power with an arduino and not enough time this project got stuck with the hardware only. Maybe they fix this problem on one of the new printers... PPPS: Last but not least I would be really blessed to find an UM-X with an integrated 3D scanner (a good one), so that I can manipulate things first and then print the next version... I´ m now planning on installing a USV, because a 3 day print was shredded becaus of a lighning-out of 1 sec. That was pretty "un-nice"! For this I would need some hints about the Amp and Volts that the UM3 would use max. But that I guess will need another topic. So here we go.. Greetings Daniel

Hi, I am trying to find a way to implement different settings to the printer UM3 ext. so I don´ t have to workaround everytime I use some special filament. It is always "apita" for me to adapt to the nearest value to do the calibration an then override the print every time with Cura to the values of the filament. If there ist anything I can to (even with modding) I would be so happy... Greetings Daniel PS: I tried to upload some filaments to Cura (4.9.1) from the Marketplace (ColorFabb & BASF Filaments) but they don´ t show up in the material section, but they are marked as "installed"....? What ist wrong here. I don` t get it.

Still selling? If yes pls PM me...

Ok, here it comes... The outcome seems to be ok for a first print. But I have probabbly dissolved the PVA in too hot water, so after the PVA came off there was a warping of the upper levels (not that I previeved that) but I was kind of curious if it would last for a while. Now I will have to disassemble the machine and see for myself, if I can adapt my print with e.g. thicker walls, supports on some of the upper levels that will not "hurt" the installation itself. Then I´ ll have a second print... Last step then will be a print with ABS... Here are the pics:

Yep, it´ s a blend between PC and ABS... Now I will try the following. I will first print only the damaged parts, which will save time, money and if the dimensions are not perfect (what in the first prints will / could happen can still be modified, because the filament tends to have a shringage of its own... ;O). This I´ ll do it in PLA and then try it on the original... Then eventually I will try the same print with ABS and glue it there with acetone. I thik that will never come back of as it dissoves the material to a point where it just fuses together with the PC.. would save me the bolts and as well I don´ t think the bolts would love the electronic parts (if they touch it).. Anyhow I will start the first print today and let you see the outcome... C ya!

Hi geert, yes indeed that was my second thought (repairing only the defective parts). But that is triky as well as the screws that hold donw the element ar ruined, too... Anyhow I will test the print wil normal PLA first and for sure I will have to go for the 2 parts as together they will be too big to fit the buildplate. Electronically the machine is ok and running but now you have to stress the plate in order to reach the buttons because the plate came off and before damaging it too far I wanted to repair is or to "substitute" it but for this reaso I will want to open the machine and see if there could be more space to print the walls thicker. Could help... Second try would be with PC - filament... I guess I won´t be able to substitute it with the indicaed materials as the broken areas are way too small (eg. fibreglass & epoxy... ) I would have CF-20-filament but that is just good in biger parts and if bent, it will eventually brake. I think if I succed in one test with pla I will go forward and try the same parts with PC... and then glue em together. But I am still open for any additional Ideas.. Greetings PS: I´ ll leave you with the original "broken" part so you can see the damage a bit better...

Hi Folks, since some print-downtime. I´ m back up and after doing some rather "basic" prints, I wonder if you would have a suggestion for me. The other time a part of my Dishwashing-Mashine cracked up and I couldn´ t get it back to start again. After examining the part my first idea was, hey you got a printer, so just draw it and then print it... Easy said, drawn but printing... I´ m not sure. Let´ s here my thoughts about it...: 1. The shell must be rugged and heat resistant. I guess dishwasher can end up with temperatures above PLA digits.... 2. The walls are very thin (1,5-2mm). Probably the industry solve this with a mold and just injects the molten PP or PET into it... 3. A lot of holes and tiny changes. 4. Lots of overhangs... Result: A lot of support and probably walls that will eventually break in my hands if I choose the wrong filament.. So what I need would be some kind of PC, or ABS, but ABS with PVA will not work. Maybe I miss an essential filament (or 3rd pary filament) that you guys use here to get this job done. For the support I would probably use the "interface" solution which adds only a small part of PVA on top and then creates the print above that layer. Plus maybe "conical support"... I really have no idea. Like I said thinking it and drawing it wasn´ t that hard, but now where it comes to the real thing... I probably only loose time and money when I will choose the wrong filament... Or you simply say. This is too hard and it will eventually fail, as the printer is not made for this kind of "creations". Then I will leave it be and concentrate on other things... Maybe buying an injection mold system! 😂😂 Thanks for any advice and keep save and healthy! Daniel PS: I would need to make two separate prints and then just glue em together as my printbed will not have the size and this way the print could be mor efficient nonetheless...

Just to let you know, just tried the Wood-glue and this ist atomic like! Really keeps everything there where it is supposed to go. Noneteless I will come to print ABS in a couple of days and I will report that as well...

Print went ok without the prime tower... Still have a few issues with the PVA, but I think this need to be tweaked bit by bit...

Good, I´ ll try that... Given room humidity I built a drybox about 2 years ago, but stopped printing because of pandemic issues.. Now I´ m back on the row and need to find my way back into it. That is eventually why I chose to change the remaining PVA completely... but still. Well I think when temperatures rise again. I will have more chances.. Drybox keeps the PVA to a stable 23% humidity (max 30%). So I hope that is enough to get rid of this number in the equation of misleading prints..

HI, hope everybody is ok and prints are turning out great... I have a larger print to do and want to use the interface layers for the first time as my PVA always seems to get stuck in the extruder klogging it... (new ectruder, new filament). I thinkt it is the rather small sections of support the causes the filament to get kind of "cooked" inside the extruder after a while. Supporting small areas is always difficult, so now I try with the interface posiibility hoping that this reduces the chance of my pva getting stuck and therefore ruining my time and the print itself... In doing so I want to implement a primetower thus getting a greater chance of extruding enough filament (PVA) out of the nozzle so it will not gettign cooked inside the nozzle again.. However now my problem is that the primetower was split into "sections" (see foto). So partly the PVA will not get print and then eventually in the void because there isn´t any PVA left underneath the body. This said you can immagine what follows... if it isn´ t wiped by the outer perimeter the PVA will eventually create problems to the print. Is there a way of solving this problem and still remain with the interface support? Greetings Daniel

Nice idea. I will try that because I was trying only with my yearly everytime glue UHU, which produced good results..