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  1. 😆😂😂 word up! That´ s what I am afraid of... I heard of people buying a tesla just for using the powercells i.g. one created a ship with that kind of drive. But that is 100% me. I start out with a small UPS and then I end up with the "diesel"-Version which isn´ t quit economical regarding the printer and the things I print (including the fails). Anyhow I thank you for your input and your thought about the UPS-calculations and I will keep that in mind when eventually buying one. The second print went great though (endured 3 days because it was a 100% infill print bec
  2. Hi there, after a print of 3d+ failed the second day becauso of a lighning and a 1sec power-off I will want to think about a UPS for the UM3. But before buying an atomic reactor or 2 Mignon AAA-Batteries I would like to know what would be a good value to look for when investing in a new UPS. I kind of read here that the UM3 uses 350 Watts but that is only what I read and I own an extended version which might have different values. I don´ t know. Anyhow maybe someone already did the calc. and can give me a hint on what kind of values to look for whne purchas
  3. Hi Smithy, thanks for the answer(s). The workaround I understood. It is a petty though that the printer isn´ t made to do that easier.. For the Material profiles I understood that my printer isn´ t compatible with the filaments offered .. by the vendor. Nonetheless I use those filaments for a half eternity and most of them seem to work just fine... so I probably have to think about other reasons why they should block it (which I don´ t);O) So far so good. Hope to hear from some good new inventions soon! PS: It´ s a petty that the S5 now will not allo
  4. Hi, I am trying to find a way to implement different settings to the printer UM3 ext. so I don´ t have to workaround everytime I use some special filament. It is always "apita" for me to adapt to the nearest value to do the calibration an then override the print every time with Cura to the values of the filament. If there ist anything I can to (even with modding) I would be so happy... Greetings Daniel PS: I tried to upload some filaments to Cura (4.9.1) from the Marketplace (ColorFabb & BASF Filaments) but they don´ t show
  5. Ok, here it comes... The outcome seems to be ok for a first print. But I have probabbly dissolved the PVA in too hot water, so after the PVA came off there was a warping of the upper levels (not that I previeved that) but I was kind of curious if it would last for a while. Now I will have to disassemble the machine and see for myself, if I can adapt my print with e.g. thicker walls, supports on some of the upper levels that will not "hurt" the installation itself. Then I´ ll have a second print... Last step then will be a print with ABS...
  6. Yep, it´ s a blend between PC and ABS... Now I will try the following. I will first print only the damaged parts, which will save time, money and if the dimensions are not perfect (what in the first prints will / could happen can still be modified, because the filament tends to have a shringage of its own... ;O). This I´ ll do it in PLA and then try it on the original... Then eventually I will try the same print with ABS and glue it there with acetone. I thik that will never come back of as it dissoves the material to a point where it just fuses together with the PC.. would s
  7. Hi geert, yes indeed that was my second thought (repairing only the defective parts). But that is triky as well as the screws that hold donw the element ar ruined, too... Anyhow I will test the print wil normal PLA first and for sure I will have to go for the 2 parts as together they will be too big to fit the buildplate. Electronically the machine is ok and running but now you have to stress the plate in order to reach the buttons because the plate came off and before damaging it too far I wanted to repair is or to "substitute" it but for this reaso I will
  8. Hi Folks, since some print-downtime. I´ m back up and after doing some rather "basic" prints, I wonder if you would have a suggestion for me. The other time a part of my Dishwashing-Mashine cracked up and I couldn´ t get it back to start again. After examining the part my first idea was, hey you got a printer, so just draw it and then print it... Easy said, drawn but printing... I´ m not sure. Let´ s here my thoughts about it...: 1. The shell must be rugged and heat resistant. I guess dishwasher can end up with temperatures above PLA
  9. Just to let you know, just tried the Wood-glue and this ist atomic like! Really keeps everything there where it is supposed to go. Noneteless I will come to print ABS in a couple of days and I will report that as well...
  10. Print went ok without the prime tower... Still have a few issues with the PVA, but I think this need to be tweaked bit by bit...
  11. Good, I´ ll try that... Given room humidity I built a drybox about 2 years ago, but stopped printing because of pandemic issues.. Now I´ m back on the row and need to find my way back into it. That is eventually why I chose to change the remaining PVA completely... but still. Well I think when temperatures rise again. I will have more chances.. Drybox keeps the PVA to a stable 23% humidity (max 30%). So I hope that is enough to get rid of this number in the equation of misleading prints..
  12. HI, hope everybody is ok and prints are turning out great... I have a larger print to do and want to use the interface layers for the first time as my PVA always seems to get stuck in the extruder klogging it... (new ectruder, new filament). I thinkt it is the rather small sections of support the causes the filament to get kind of "cooked" inside the extruder after a while. Supporting small areas is always difficult, so now I try with the interface posiibility hoping that this reduces the chance of my pva getting stuck and therefore ruining my time and the print itself.
  13. Nice idea. I will try that because I was trying only with my yearly everytime glue UHU, which produced good results..
  14. Hi, I am wondering if there is a workaround that you have already done that allows me to upgrade my existing printbed that is reaching now max 98c. Right now I am experiencing too much fails with PC and ABS and I am 100% sure that part of the problem is the printbedtemp. Prints are comming out great until the print jumps a ceratain hight the warping starts and after 1 cm it becomes hilarious. So I have to get a workaround if I ever want to use theese materials in a good way. So I am looking for a replacement of the existing printbedheater and or maybe t
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