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HaryPlotter

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  1. Hallo Christian, erstmal vielen Dank für deine vielen Ansätze. Also der Core ist neu. Daran kann es eigentlich nicht liegen, vor allem weil ich mit dem ja noch dieses Monsterteil heile gedruckt hatte. Was den Flow anbelangt, mache ich da (vor allem bei den PLA-Filamenten) eigentlich nur wenig herum. Das hatte ich nur mal bei dem Material von ColorFabb. Ich glaube das war XT-CF20, da musste ich den Flow erhöhen und das Ergebnis war dann auch gut. Der Lüfter sollte eigentilch auch noch klar sein. Ich höre Ihn auf jeden Fall noch tun. Wenn er zeitweilig ausfallen würde, dann könnte man das ja auf dem Temp-Diagram sehen, dass man auf dem Drucker einsehen kann. "Sofwarebedingt" hört sich natürlich gar nicht gut an und ich hoffe, das bekomme ich auch anders noch einmal hin. Eine kleine Winzigkeit wäre da aber noch zu erwähnen: Mein Drucker schafft es momentan nicht ein ordentliches Raft mit PVA zu drucken. Bei dem 3. Druck (er macht ein realtiv dichtes Raft) schiebt er das Filament an der Düsenspitze vor sich her und es kugelt sich ein. Das ist aber nicht immer so... Kann es sein das die Z-Achse einen weghat? Kann man das irgendwie testen? Ich denke, dass er die Abstände im Z-Bereich nicht mehr gut setzt und deswegen etweder mit der Düse zu tief hängt oder zu hoch... Automatisch kalibriere ich schon eine kleine Ewigkeit nicht mehr, auch weil die Ergebnisse daraus verherend waren. Er hatte auch vor 2 Jahren mal das Bedrüfnis mir sagen zu müssen, dass die beiden Cores zu unterschiedlich hoch sind. Das war nun aber wirklich ein Blödsinn. Ich habe dann die kapazitive Erkennungsplatte ausgetauscht und gut war. Das mit der Kalibrierung mache ich aber seitdem nur noch maunell und bisher hatte es auch bis auf einige wenige Male gut funktiniert... Da die Underextrusion bei bestimmten Layern erst kommt könnte ich mir vorstellen, dass die Z-Achse irgend ein Problem hat. Gibt es da Ansätze das herauszufinden? Gruß Daniel
  2. Hi, ich versuche es jetzt das erste Mal mit dem deutschen Forum... Habe seit neuester Zeit ein Problem mit meinen Drucken. Ich habe vor ein paar Tage meinen "Airintake" meines PKW erneut gedruckt, weil die Vollpfosten von der Werkstatt den Schlauch samt dem Airintake abgebrochen hatten und musste feststellen, dass dem Druckkopf nach einer Weile komplett das Material versagte. Ich habe dann gedacht es liegt an den Einstellugnen und habe die Temperaturen angepasst und den Lüfter auch runtergeregelt (war vorher 20%). Selbes Ergebnis! Ich habe ein Foto gepostet.. Danach habe ich: 1. Beide Düsen gründlich gereinigt. 2. Neues Printbett (Glassscheibe mit etwas UHU) installiert. 3. die Feeder gründlich gereinigt (dachte die Feeder seien verschmutzt und würden das Material nicht mehr ordentlich nach vorne bringen). Danach habe ich das Filament getauscht. Es war zunächst ein Polyester-Filament, welches nur mit hohen Temperaturen gedruckt werden kann, drinnen und da ich bisher nicht so viel damit gedruckt habe, dachte ich es läge vielleiccht an der Umgebungstempereatur, die vielleicht zu niedrig sei (obwohl im Dachstuhl ja eher Backofentemperatur herrscht). Ich habe dann ein sehr einfach zu druckendes Material gewählt: ToughPla Die Druckdaten sind ja eh durch R-Fid gespeichtert und ich hatte auch noch nie wesentliche Probleme damit. Auf jeden Fall druckte es auch diesmal Problematisch: Sie die restlichen Fotos. Darauf ist klar zu erkennen, dass der Druck am Anfang mehr oder minder ok lief, aber dann zeitweilig das selbe Problem auftauchte, wie beim Polyester. Das Thema, was mich beschäftigt ist: WARUM ZEITWEILIG??? In der Mitte des Drucks ist sowenig Material verbaut, dass ich sogar durchschauen kann. Danach lief der Druck wieder normal. Deshalb die Frage an euch... was kann das sein? Vielleicht sollte ich noch erwähnen, dass ich einen Druckkopf von Solex-Everlast drinnenhabe. Aber der ist auch vom Düsendurchmesser 0,4mm stark. das sollte eingentlich keine Probleme geben. Getauscht hatte ich den vormals, da ich ein Material von Colorfabb gedruckt hatte, welches im Dunklen leuchtet. Das Ergebniss war sehr gut und das gedruckte Objekt auch relativ gro´ß. Aus diesem Grund denke ich nicht, dass es an der Düse liegt... Für Vorschläge wäre ich euch sehr dankbar. Gruß Daniel
  3. Great Tomahawk_101, somehow I could not find it there... it only displayed the motor for the um3.. ( not the extd. version and there the cable for the ext. is too short).. Therefore the thread is closed. Greetings Daniel
  4. Hi to all again.. Short question: As my ultimaker makes strange klicking noises in both stepper motors I don´´ t want to find out what happens if one gets blocked. So I want to change both (bearings and stepper motor). Trying to find a suitable replacement (original) I could not find anything for the UM3 Ext. So I made some research and came to this stepper-motor: https://www.amazon.de/STEPPERONLINE-Schrittmotor-Bipolar-42x60mm-DRUCKER/dp/B00PNEQUZ2/ref=pd_bxgy_2/257-8638925-5617602?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00PNEQUZ2&pd_rd_r=b842af7f-b5ea-4759-89ee-21af0862f3ad&pd_rd_w=2a5tH&pd_rd_wg=iVUNH&pf_rd_p=6aed2014-4dbf-49b4-8c75-10cdc6199eef&pf_rd_r=XDPA55BCP002PFXXDJX8&psc=1&refRID=XDPA55BCP002PFXXDJX8 Could this be a suitable replacement, or does it draw too much (or too low) energy (Ampere/Voltage) for the PCB-Board of the UM3. If not maybe someone does have a link to a stepper-motor that can be actually used for a replacement and would not be more week... --> please no hint´s to resellers as they would not sell anythin like this. I have tried it already.. They sell other parts but not this one. Greetings Daniel
  5. Ok, now that we are all through x-mas and newyears time, party, headake and afterparty... ... I finally started to draw some basic sketches and make some prints. Now the hardware is there and I could take the measurements according to the hardware and that is what came out (see fotos). So now I have solved the hardware-problem (minus 1-2 issues --> The cover for the laser-tunnel is still missing but what the heck)... I then did some testing and the installation worked fine. The only thing is that I had to organize some different size screws as the old ones holding the extruders will become 3-4 mm too short... As of next month I will set me up a more comfortable way of programming my rasp (ordered a little touchscreen) and I will start to fool around with the programming software on it. So again I hope I do´n t have to do everthing by myself... therefore it would be great I someone could help me with the programming of the rasp in order to get the fotocell to work propperly in conjunktion with the Laser LED. I also researched the command for pausing the printer which can be executed directly from the programm over the rasp when the laser will hit the fotocell... ... will keep you updated on the project as it continues. Greetings Daniel
  6. Great! Thanks again... You´ re a great teacher. Now I even know that... so instead of Compiling the whole program each time, running the .pyc-code is much easier for the interpreter to understand and thus saves time. I can even decompile those files back to the original scripts. That is wild! Understood the ID and KEY, log as well. Now I´ m starting to draw again because today I got myself a small touchscreen I want to implement ontop of my rasp... makes programming and testing the code later much easier.. Greetings Daniel
  7. Yep, all worked out for me. Testing worked great and all of the scripts are doing just what they are supposed to do.. Thanks again for the forwarding. So I guess I close the subject for now. I wish to all of you that you will have a great christmas in the upcomming days and weeks and that all your wishes (for filaments and stuff YEAH) are going to come true... ;O) For myself I had a wish for a new kind of filament (Ultrafuse 316L from BASF) which I will test in January .. the only thing I have to figure out is the shrinkage of the printed objects to after the sintering-process. I was at the formnext one month ago and they tolkd me that the probably will make a software for it once there is enough demand for it.... would be great! And it gets better. Next year they´ ll bring out 2 new filaments based on the same process. On that goes where the PVC gets in. This in order to separate the fiament and make overhangs printable (ceramic based filament) and another Filament in the metall direction ---> Steel or even Titanium. That would make things available that were restricted to people that can afford a Markforged or similar printers... Nice things to come! So happy Christmas!!! Greetings Daniel PS: I saw that something is creating a file (I left it here for you as a .log-File). I had been part of a .py File. So I guess this is the Token that the Ultimker creates to allow the program (API) to be executed? Is this a "general-key" or does it create itself again every time at a new "handshake". If not, is it swapable to other PC´ s (e.G. the Rasp) to avoid the authorisation process with another PC? If you don´ t know it doesn´ t matter because the result is there anyhow... UM3_API.cpython-36.log
  8. tinkergnome, you are my hero!!! Great job. You even thougt about adapting my IP-Adress. This just brings me so much further... So to say I will have to authorise the PC for once and then it will be executed without asking me that authoristaion again. GREAT! Once I advance with the Raspberry project. I will most certainly keep you uptdated. Just to be sure (I will test it tomorrow): So for example if I run a print and I want to pause it. I ´ ll go into the command mode (CMD) and I start the pausing python-file throughout python and it should first ask me to authorise this and then pause the printer. Is this right? Afterwards I could even implement an Icon, when I interlink it with that special command. I hope I got it right.. at least I could do this in Windows.. Because in the end I´ ll have to solve it as a selfexecuting version over Linux that keeps running in the rasp and executes the pausing just if the signal of my fotocell dropps below a certain value... but this I´ ll figure out once I hav the last device ready (still waiting on the laser-diode to drop in)... Greetings Daniel
  9. Hi tinkergnome, thank you for your help so far. Slowly I am understanding better now (slowly). So first of all it is not that I am not thinking about programming python. It is just that I haven´t had any experience in it without getting to run a program (timelapse.py) that I found somewhere and it helped alot understanding where a print failed. This I could get to run with some time but I did not programm it. So I litterally have had to look up what "put" or "get" means. So I used the code that was displayed in your links and tried to start it (adding the correct ip-Adress of my printer).. and probabbly I miss out to change some other syntaxes of the code itself. With that other program (timelapse.py) I had no big problems to implement that but here I see that I still need some more time with that... Anyhow I am not giving up! There was another problem.. when I "copy/pasted" the lines for python. The editor did put the programme in only one line, which makes the overwiev very nasty. Is there a better way to copy the lines the way I see them in the link into a pyhton program? Anyhow, all theses lines lead to beeing able to set the value "print", "pause" or "abort" pyhsically remotedly. Once I have this figured out correctly I still would like to know if there is a way to putting the "pause"-command into a shell that if executed pauses the print with no further personal handling. Because if it isn´ t, the idea to stop any print with the lack of filament would could not be stopped automatically (e.G. if every time the printer would demand an authorisation). So this remains for me the biggest question. I have added the lines I copied from the remote-access-part an a screenshot of the result of on of the programms... Greetings Daniel PS: Please feel free to help me understand, what changes I have to make to get those programms to work propperly (please leave out bad comments as I know that I don´ t know anything about programming) PPS: I changed that extensions from .py to .log to be able to upload the files here... test.log Test2.log Test3.log
  10. Hi, I am trying to build an interruptor to save filament and or to "pause" prints, when no filament is available anymore. An important step to complete this task is to be able to change the state of the printer from "Printing" to "pause". I asked some pros in the exibition "formnext" and they told me in the api of the Ultimaker there should be a code. So I looked it up. I found someting promising, but I don´ t get too far. I will add some screenshots so you will see, what I am talking about. 1. The api asks me an authorisation. Somehow it lets me go forward if I use "ultimaker" and "admin", so I guess it´ s the same PW as the PW I used to change the extruders... 2. There is a command that gives out the current state of the printer. But somehow I can not change the state. 3. There is a command that starts with "Curl -x...." But I cannot use that command, as I would like to change the state directly in the command line instead of only getting the current state of the printer. I think that has to do with programming JSON-Files and I cannot yet program json or python-Files 4. Then I looked at the printer connection of Cura and there is a button that allows the printer to be paused. So I tried to find out, what command this button triggers (see screenshot) but still those command lead to nowhere. Maybe someone can help me out here. Without me having to program anything in json or python or something else to be able to stop the print with that command line... A tech in the exibition told me that should be possible so maybe I overlooked something... Once I have that command ready I will implement that command to be executed when the filament runs out. This I am trying to get done with a raspbery pi. I would appreciate any help here. Thank you Daniel
  11. Ok, now we´ re getting there. Slowly but still ok... was to busy recuperating from work over the weekend so I could not find any motivation for the raspberry.... Yesterday that changed. So finally I managed to load an image to the board but couldn´ t try it because I overlooked to buy an adapter from HDMI to micro-HDMI. Small thing but it ruined my day. So today I got one and believe it or not: The smal PC is alive! Then today I made all the changments and updates on it so I can start implementing the programme and the diode. Finally I´ m waiting to get the Laser-Diodes. Once I have those I will start making a first sketch of the encasing because I can only start measuring when get this last piece. Maybe I will start playing around with python in the meantime to get first results with the board and the fotodiode... Now I´ m printing a basic encasing for the raspberry. I will adapt this device once the other things come to be implemented. But I will let you know then. Meanwhile keep me updated if you have any good ideas with programming python, or if you have the code the brings the Printer from printing into pausing... or any other help that adds to this Topic. Greetings Daniel
  12. To all of you, thank you for your input so far. But I think I will define my thoughts a bit more in detail because I´ m not thinking of "tweaking" the spool but I´ m building a direct filament-trap... I will attach a fast sketch of what I´ m about to construate. Then we talk again... So far I got the Rasperry Pi yesterday.. I will set up the OS over the weekend. Then I could start playing around with the foto-diode... But, unfortunately I won´ t get the Laser Diodes until the ! 16.12.2019 !. which for me is an eternity... ;O) so I can only start to draw the trap if I have this device because I lack the measurements for it... Anyhow I´ m eager to set this up because it will eventually save me alot of pain when doing lager prints. I will add the devices I already ordered for it so you can stay tuned... Anyhow I am still at the beginning of programming so maybe someone can add up to the team with the programming of the python lines. This is the only thing that will probably eat up more time that I want... but for someone who is used to coding, this should be a peace of cake (Take a look at the drawing). As soon as I get the last part for the trap I will start drawing some boxes in order to test the fitting of the devices and I need to find a spring that is not too tough and not too loose.. but that will be another task at the time. Hope that you have my mind now.. Greetings Daniel PS: And if some UM-pro is comming around to see the progression of this task... I didn´ t find the direct command to set the printer on hold even though I looked in the API. There are only static values to get out of it or I at least could not find a specific command line that would set the printer from "printing" mode to "pausing"- mode. But at the fair the tech there told me that it should exist in the API. So maybe we can find that out as well....
  13. Hi Geert_2, thank you for your input but maybe my previous post was not too understandible. I will try to be more exact: 1. I´ m not trying to build something complicated like a flow-sensor or something in this direction. (although I know as of today that someone can introduce an S5 flow-sensor to an U3, but that needs to trigger some sofware-update and I´m far away of reprogramming the software api). 2. There is one simple measuring device --> the laser! A) The laser connects to the reflector on the other side --> Printer stops for pausing... B) No passthrough --> no connection --> printer is not disturbed 3. The laser is (will be) connected to or an arduino or better a rasberry because of the preinstalled LAN-connection and programmed so if the laser connects the machine is said to stop. 4. Today I have been to the "formnext" in Frankfurt and I talked to a software-engeneer of ultimaker. He told me the prgram of the ultimaker can be paused and the comand for it can be found directly in the api of the printer. Nonetheless I left my card there so maybe he will help me out with the exact command. If not I will try my luck in the couple of the next days. 5. Anyhow the printing of the filament-trap is pretty easy and I´ m sure I will have a box ready by the end of next week. 6. The probelm is, that I don´ t know anything about programming but there might be someone out there that already did program with e.g. pyhton or anything that can be uploaded to a rasberry and started witht the laser diode hooked on it as a trigger-switch. So in this case I would need some support in programming as I would contribute the holding device for the laser and the box. If that runs wel´ ld have a low cost and efficient way of stopping the printer if any bowden runs out of filament. Greetings Daniel
  14. ... same for me. I´ m running a Um3e and I´ m wondering if there is any progress to get an implementation of a sensor that comunicates with the hardwäre of my printer. Especcially because that would render my recent topic useless and would save me alot of braincells for solutions that are already in the makeing or about to get finalized... If something however gets in the devstate of testing (UM3e only) pls count me in for it. Thx.
  15. Hey there, have only a few posts, but my previous account got deleted by an update to a new community server a few years ago. Since then I had alot othe stuff to do. Now I´´´ m back... Back with an important issue (so to me). As I am already using my UM3 ext. for a while and made some changes to it here and there I want yet to add another change to it. With some help we might help others too, to help save filament/ prints and therefore the environment, nature, the word and not least the universe ;O) So now to my question: How often does it happen (more to newbies probably), that you print and then there comes the time that your role slowly expires. Now you have a couple of options: 1. Or you know the weight of the empty spool and you weigh the "rest" of you filament and the you know how mucht you can still print (But that is time consuming and nobody really does that every time). 2. Or you go by eye and pray... 3. Or you just "pause" your print at a certain usage of your filament and change it rapidly by hand while your printer is on pause. The last option I found out is the best for me to keep on even with big prints. With this trick you could overcome unfinished prints, therefore cloaked nozzles (at least for the PVA-filament), you save time, money and so on. Now you are not always in to check for the current usage of your filament so I thought this should be feesible with someone who knows a bit about programming with python and combining this with a sensor. In this case that would be a normal photocell that detects light and thus gives out a command to something like an arduino to change the state of the UM3 from "printing" to "Pause" (http://192.XXX.XXX.XXX/api/v1/print_job/state). Once the filament is changed we could then manually or by direct input rechange the state to "printing". Maybe I can find some fellows who can realize this kind of painsaving "addon". I already thought about where to put the fotocell. I should be possible to print a box to install it right underneath the feeders (2 fotocells for each feeder). So if the filament ever is used up it will pass by the feeder and thus activating the fotocell. The fotocell should give out a signal to a simple pc (maybe arduino) that is then sending a command to the UM3 to pause. That should help: https://micro-dev.de/showthread.php?tid=42 (It´``` s in german but basically i´t s the setup I would like to create... Now I know about some basic comands but this task need a group of people who are more into programming and stuff. But first I would like to know if this idea catches your interest in basic. Then we could at least figure out a way together in getting some more fun into printing. What do you think about it? Greetings Daniel
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