GregValiant

The "minimum_value" might be called out in your definition file. The "fdmprinter.def.json" file calls out the "minimum_value": "layer_height": "minimum_value": "0.001", "minimum_value_warning": "0.04", "maximum_value_warning": "0.8 * min(extruderValues('machine_nozzle_size'))", So if there are no changes called out in your definition file "overrides" then you should be able to do as slashee says and simply make a change to the layer height. You probably need to be in "Custom" to do that. (At 1000 layers / mm it will take a few minutes to slice a Mandalorian helmet.)

@Tooth - "i use an Ender 3 V2 and the Z offset that i store directly on the printer gets reset to 0 every time i restart the printer." Within the LCD menus do you have "Save Settings"? After setting the Z-offset in the printer have you used "Save Settings" (if it is available). If you don't Save Settings (M500) then every change made to printer settings is temporary and resets when the power is cycled.

@ingo_66 there are typo's in the definition files in the startup and ending gcodes. "singel" is "single". From: Creator_Singel_Right.def.json. Creator_Singel_Left has the same issues. "machine_start_gcode": M118 T0 >>>>>>> should this be "M108"??? 107 ; cooling fan off >>>>>>>>>> should be "M107" M106 S{cool_fan_speed} ; set cooling fan speed >>>>>>>> should be "cooling_fan_speed_layer_0"??? "machine_end_gcode": G1 G91 E-3 F500 ; retract 3mm of feed stock >>> typo - should be G91 ; relative positioning G1 E-3 F500 ;retract 3mm of feed stock .... G162 Z F1800 ; home Z >>> OK if the bed drops down. Not good if the nozzle moves down. .... G91 ; relative positioning >>>>>>>>> should be "G90 ; absolute positioning ??????

Wash the build surface with dish detergent, rinse well, dry it without getting fingerprints on it, and put it back in place. Wipe the surface down with 90% Isopropyl Alcohol. Depending on the material you might need to use an adhesion promoter. I like Aquanet Super Hold hair spray and some people like things like Magi-Goo. Most PLA's will print without adhesion promoter but I've found that PETG absolutely requires it. Stiction is all about the surface area. Your letters are only 3/8 tall, but how wide are the legs of the letters like the "h". If the legs are less than 2mm wide you will probably want something to help them stick. After printing, if you stick the build plate into the refrigerator for 5 minutes the letters may loosen by themselves. If you use a brim you can set a "Brim Distance". Setting that to around 0.10mm can make the brim easier to break away when the time comes. Those letters are pretty small and I would go with an adhesion promoter rather that taking a chance of breaking a letter while trying to get the brim off. Bed leveling also comes into play as the Initial Layer Height is totally dependent on it. I level with a piece of parchment paper and I run the Initial Layer Flow at 105% to compensate for any inconsistency in my leveling.

I replied on the other thread, that's a mechanical problem with the printer and it appears to be the "X" axis movement. If the X beam was bent you could end up with something like that.

I agree - that printer isn't right. Something is bent, or there are loose or bad trolley wheels on one of the axes. Are the hot end and bed cables interfering with the movement somehow? My guess is that something is mechanically wrong with the "X" axis. Move the Z up around Z100 and shut the machine off. Looking from the side of the machine slide the print head back and forth. Does it travel in a single straight line? When you eyeball the X beam is it straight? Does the carriage travel smoothly? Trolley wheels are tight? No boogers in the slots that the wheels travel in? @gr5 - There are two threads regarding this problem.

Doing some searching and reading it would appear that FlashForge printers can be used with Raise3D IdeaMaker. The Raise3D IDEX printers use different M605 codes to tell the printer what mode to use and that makes them adaptable to use Cura because they don't require "U" and "V" axes in the gcode. Your FlashForge might respond to that command or it might have it's own command (I've seen D0, D1 and D2 mentioned). You can check a gcode file to see if something was added to tell the printer which mode to use. For the Raise3D printers: M605 S0 is "normal" M605 S1 is "duplicate" M605 S2 is "mirror" It is dependent on your firmware but it's possible that putting one of those "mode" commands (whatever it is for your printer) into the startup gcode and then checking how the printer responds may provide a clue as to what you need to do to keep the left head parked.

Or it's sitting on the bed at a slight angle which is angling the top surface. There is an angle involved somewhere so you are getting "steps" because there are 4 layers where you expecting 1. If you take a close look from the side you will see what is going on. These are the same model but the one on the left is rotated by 1° so it isn't flush on the bed. The skirt cutting under the left model is the clue that one edge is up.

It could be. A nozzle's ID will wear and become over-sized over time (some material are worse than others) it shouldn't leave a pattern that comes and goes like that. Regarding nozzles, I have noticed that some nozzles produce a "roostertail" effect at higher speeds and that causes material to collect on the outside of the nozzle. After it builds up to critical mass it comes off in droplets on the model and is highly annoying. So not all nozzles are created equal. Back to the pattern, for right now I'm sticking with "It's a bed thing". Nothing else I've thought of really fits what we see.

This isn't helpful, but I've gotten that pattern occasionally and never figured out why it occurred. My thought was that clean or not, it's related to the build surface rather than anything else. You can see the pattern from above before the second layer goes on. The pattern never appears on layers above the first layer either. It's also too regular to be related to the filament (moisture) or oddities of the extruder. The one thing in common here is that I print on glass and use hair spray for bed adhesion. Go figure.

"...the program continues to the prior window" Can you expand on that? I don't get that problem with my install, the Machine Settings dialog comes up as it should.

There are 4 types of files that comprise a full definition and they go into different locations. Because your printer definition inherits the "elegoo_base.def.json" the extruder files are already in place in the extruder folder. That leaves the other three types. The main definition file (elegoo_neptune_4.def.json) needs to go into the "definitions" folder. The nozzle files (Ex: elegoo_neptune_4_0.20.inst.cfg) go into the "variants" folder. The rest of the files look like they should be in the "quality" folder. I think if you refer to the Pull Request page and pull up each file then header above will list the file path where they should be installed (EX: "resources/quality/elegoo/neptune_4/asa/nozzle_0_40/elegoo_n4_asa_nozzle_0.40_layer_0.20.inst.cfg"). Once again, you may need to experiment with that as I'm unfamiliar with how Elegoo lays things out. With the main definition file in the definition folder it should come up in the "install" dialog. After that if you get configuration errors you will need to tweak your manual install.

The Pull Request was merged a couple of days ago. The printer will be available in the next release. In the meantime you could download the files and install them yourself.

Which fan? Whether cooling is enabled in Cura or not - if the "Regular Fan Speed at Layer" setting is > 1 then Cura always includes "M107" at the beginning of the gcode which is "turn off the layer cooling fan". Very few people start a print with the fan on at the first layer. To turn on the layer cooling fan requires an M106 line in the Gcode. You can open the gcode file in a text editor and search for "M106". With cooling turned off in Cura the only instance should be the one in the Ending Gcode M106 S0 which turns the fan off at the end of the print.

Cura puts the heating lines at the beginning of the gcode so the printer should have seen them and heated the nozzle and bed. You will get better support to your question over on the users group on Reddit. I don't recall anyone that hangs around here that has your printer and the problem is likely printer specific.

Your project is a big model and takes up a lot of the build plate. You need to make sure that your "Bed Adhesion" fits along with the model. The raft fits when the Raft Extra Margin is 3.0mm. It was OK with a skirt because Cura can (now) plan to have the skirt end at the edge of the build plate but the entire raft must fit. It looks like that was the problem as it did slice once there was room for everything.

Go ahead and take it down. You can work through email directly with the Cura team rather than posting proprietary models here on the forum. Maybe @Dustin or @gr5 can advise on that. BTW Cura crashed when I tried to open that project file. I didn't have any trouble with the one on Github. I was able to slice the Github project but I had to make a couple setting changes. Re-selecting the "Fast" profile and resetting everything back to it's defaults allowed it to slice as well. There might be a conflict within the changes you made to the profile. Alright, different model. I hate senior moments.

" I feel really dumb for not catching this earlier." Aaahhh, but in your favor - you let everyone know where the problem was. Thank you. I think that makes it a wash.

Beats the heck out of me. I have the fancy Dehydrating oven.

There are filament driers and then there are ways to dry filament. I paid no attention at the time but when remodeling our kitchen I bought a new stove. I'll be darned if it doesn't have a "Dehydrate" cycle. It allows low temperatures and the exhaust fan runs. It works perfect but can only be used at night (or someone else might notice what her stove is being used for). The same method can be used to dry silica packs out. There there is also the "Turn your heated bed on at 60°, set the roll of filament on it, and put a cover on it". People claim that works and although I haven't tried it (got that fancy oven) I don't see why it wouldn't be better than nothing.

Layer adhesion with "Silky's" is not good and it seems to me that it varies by color. Silky Silver is actually pretty good and Silky Copper is really bad with Silky Gold somewhere in between. I generally print them 5° hotter, but there is not a big improvement. In addition they seem to suck up moisture faster and so you need to use it up or it gets brittle AND doesn't adhere to itself well.

Thank you. I submitted a pull request for it about 10 months ago. I think eventually it will get rolled in once it is reviewed by the Cura team.

I wrote this because Cura's fan control is rudimentary. Unzip the file and put "AddCoolingProfile.py" into the "scripts" folder in your Configuration Folder (find it using "Help | Show Configuration Folder"). There are options to control the fan "By Layer" or "By Feature" and within By Feature is a Bridge Fan option. The script will be available in "Extensions / Post Processing / Modify Gcode" and then "Add a Script". AddCoolingProfile.zip

The BASF material has the Standby Temperature at 100°. Within the printer settings the "Heat Up Speed" is 1.4°/sec and the "Cool Down Speed" is 0.9°/sec. The White Breakaway material Standby Temperature is 125°. Within the printer settings the "Heat Up Speed" is 1.6°/sec and the "Cool Down Speed" is 0.75°/sec. (For many materials the defaults for both the Heat Up and Cool Down is 2°/sec.) So as @gr5 surmised, it's a question of the layer time and whether or not the particular nozzle can react given the settings for how fast they can cool down and then heat up again. The setting "Minimal Time at Standby Temperature" of 15 seconds is likely coming into play as well.

That's the print file. Use the "File | Save Project" command to generate a 3mf Project File. Starting around layer 234 the T0 standby temperature starts to drop. By layer 240 it is down around 110° and then drops to 100°. By layer 248 nozzle 2 (T1) is done working and T0 heats up from 100 and is used for the rest of the print. Yes, the standby temperatures are bouncing around. Maybe @gr5 can comment on what is going on there.