Jman15x

Well none of those things helped it's still not printing

okay, thanks. I am trying reinstalling the firmware first it is actually pretty easy can be done right from the maintenance section. Will let you know if that works and if not I'll try the system reset

Will I have to recalibrate x and y offsets after?

Just a power cycle

My print jobs are "completing" in a matter of seconds. When I send the job from cura to my ultimaker s5 pro bundle via Wi-Fi it starts to get ready for the print and then moments later it says "finishing". I do not get the print completion screen. I have tried printing different files, with other materials and by using a usb drive to import the file instead of the internet connection. I have also restarted both the printer and Cura to no avail .

I'm wondering how I can do this with the s5 material station. I don't want to keep wasting away my valuable PVA rolls. Do you have a link for how to clean out a print core?

Unfortunate this is somewhat unavoidable with FDM 3d printers. Because they do not truly print in all 3 directions simultaneously but rather stacks layers of extruded filament in a 2d plane, object orientation is everything. So you could try rotating it 90 degrees to lay it flat but then you use a lot more support, although the print should be stronger in that orientation. The easiest fix here is to reduce you layer height as much as possible and then just do a little bit of post processing. You could also try enabling ironing in cura but in my experience this makes very little if any difference.

Any idea what is happening here or what could cause this to occur? I think the clear part is ultimaker PC because that is the only transparent filament I have, similarly the "white-ish" glob must be ultimaker ABS.

I'm curious as to why we have a "skip cooldown" function. Every time I've tried to use it it remains greyed out so I have to wait for everything to cool down before starting another print anyways.

I don't know how long it takes for the old files to cycle out but I do have the USB flash drive inserted

That's annoying. Sounds like I am out of luck then. The replacement plates are $35 plus shipping so I could just buy another one but its more the principle of the matter that bothers me.

I did not confirm the removal

I'm not the one who actually made the purchase I'm just the engineer they put in charge of using it. We definitely were under the impression that we could use either build plate. Though of course, being brand new to 3D printing there were 1,000 other things to consider and learn about so I just grew accustomed to using the single glass build plate. However, seeing this thread definitely made me realize the benefits of having a secondary build plate. Especially since there is already a small scratch in our first one.

Thanks for the reply. I contacted my reseller and he said it was only for the early customers without any mention of the R1 vs R2. Our machine is the R1 (with the robot on the side) but it only shipped with one build plate. It was also ordered as a pro bundle, not sure if that makes a difference.

Ugh. I have about had it with this new firmware. I was having adhesion trouble so I aborted the print, cleaned the build plate, and then walked away. About 45 minutes later I came back to this mess! There was no option to even cancel the print because apparently it retried without my approval.

Just stumbled upon this thread by accident. We're supposed to get 2 glass build plate with the s5?? We just got ours a few months ago and it only came with one...

How to you guys prevent this from happening when printing in TPU?

I'm not sure I feel comfortable opening this up as it might void the warranty. Which also means I would also be unable to test the resistivity of the wires unless there is another way inside?

Are you saying to measure them with a multimeter? If so, what sort of values should I expect? If I remove the bottom of my printer is it okay to lay it on its side?

These connections look good to me. How would I go about checking the other end? Thank you for getting back to me btw 😄

Shoot. That's not good because I already started a support ticket with ultimaker and they have shipped out a new capacitive circuit board as well as a BB 0.4 print core. Those should be arriving today. However from what you are saying it sounds like that is not likely to be the cause of the problem. I had already checked the cable connections to the i2c print head last week and made sure it was firmly in place but I guess there could be a frayed/damaged wire or loose connection elsewhere.

I also have the ultimaker s5 pro bundle and I can attest that the G.U.I. is simply atrocious. 5.8.2 has been especially bad for me and unfortunately reverting to the previous firmware didn't help either. The issue with the infinite "finishing" phase has also occurred on my machine as well as when I've tried to abort a print. More often than not the progress indicators seem to freeze indefinitely and then you have no idea what is actually going on. The alternative to the frozen progress meter is the unclearable error. You would think with how frequently these pop up there would be a reset button but that is not the case on the vast majority of the error codes. Occasionally you will get one that you can simply acknowledge and then proceed to retry or diagnose the problem but 98% of them require you to completely power off the device. The amount of times I have hard reset this machine in the 2 months since its purchase is certainly unhealthy. I have already submitted a support ticket and have replacement parts being shipped out, but with the the 8.5.2 firmware update I have gotten way too many errors that I never encountered before. Namely, ER45 - Capacitive sensor low performance, ER29 - Print core min temp, ER28 - Print core max temp, ER31 - Print core heater error, ER37 - Print head sensor error, ER38 - Active leveling correction failed, nozzle offset probe failed error, and difference between detected height of both Print Cores exceeds realistic values. Print core BB 0.4 would also start heating to max temperature as soon as the machine powered up. Are there really this many issues with a machine that is only 2 months old? The replacement parts being sent are a new capacitive sensor board and a BB print core because the machine is still under warranty but why would those parts have gone bad already after such little use? I appreciate the "free" replacements but I would much rather not have to do the repairs at all and have a fully functioning 3D printer right out of the box. Hopefully these replacements will solve all these issues but it seems if it is only one part that is bad the error message should be the same every time. At the very least it would be less confusing that way and therefore easier to troubleshoot.

I sent the log files to your email, were you able to read them? The error message that I get now is that the capacitive sensor's performance is low. I checked the connections are they all appear to be in tact

airmanager_data.log dmesg.log airmanager_data.log flow_Ultimaker.log misp_data.log process_data.log sensor_data.log

All the contacts are clean but I am still unable to get a print even started. I tried to revert back to 5.8.1 firmware (I have the older model with the robot on the side), But that didnt fix it either. I also tried a hard reset as well as many reboots.