Does anyone already have installed the Bondtech Extruder/Feeder?

[ataraxis 51]

I ordered mine yesterday - I can't wait for it, i had extrusion problems again and again since i bought my ultimaker. it became better on the first layers when i installed the heated bed - but it's still a problem if the speed of infill an walls differs to much or if i print much faster than 50mm/s.

I think it is an combination of more than just one problem, my bowden is not new at all and the hot end have seen better days too. Maybe it's also the knurled bolt,... Im just tired of trying to fix it

I will keep you informed and will write a review with some before/after pictures and tests.

Btw.: The gears from bondtech are hardened, i think they will do their job for a long time.

Cheers

Edited February 20, 2016 by Guest

[eldrick 65]

P.S. - BondTech does offer a 1.75mm version.

[ultibrain 5]

I've had the BondTech on my Kossel delta for months. It just pushes the filament right, I really do like it, and it's a marvelous piece of engineering. So I decided to go for the BondTech on both of my UM2's.

[paban 4]

I've installed the BONDTECH feeder last week. It works fine. The only issue I had in the beginning, was that the small Gcode program didn't SAVE the new E-step setting in the EEPROM (it worked just for one print). Using Tinkergnome's "Motion Settings" solved the problem. I think, the BONDTECH feeder is a better choice than the UM 2+ - extruder.

[bob-hepple 59]

I Agree

[Broome 3]

I installed the Bondtech last week on my Ultimaker 2 extended and it is perfection! I also have a Ultimaker 2+ and am actually in the process of ordering a Bondtech for that as well. I only use XT for my prints and have not been able to tune my UM2+ to give me the quality I need: 0,25 nozzle, 0,04 layer height. The Bondtech just worked directly out of the box on my UM2 extended (after the recomended firmaware upgrade).

I measured the feeding of the UM2+ and got strange results since it retracted 1mm more then it fed?!? I extruded 100mm and retracted 100mm and it gave me this strange result constantly. Since my prints depend a lot on retractions and I do not have time too tinker with it now; I ordered a Bondtech. I am sure the fault is on my side, but right now time is money.

Edited April 25, 2016 by Guest

[Techniktoni 1]

Hello,

I have some Problem with my Bondtech Extruder QR V3

(bought by https://www.freeform4u.de/bondtech-ultimaker-2-qr-extruder-upgrade-kit.html)

In the dokumentation, the e-steps are 492,45 but during tests to feed 100mm of filament, i have to readjust the steps to 511,79.

Now i Printed with Simplify 3d an rectangular thin wall test with 20x20x 15 and a wall-width of 0,45mm.

After printing i measured 0,8mm wallthickness and 20,4x20,35mm

I have used:

- a 0,4 nozzle (Orginal, no Olsson block, which has spent so far 33meters of PLA-filament)

- 0,2mm layerhight

- Vasemode

- Inofill PLA white with 220°C for first layer, rest 210° and 26,4mm/s printing speed.

- Labern Fan shroud with 100% fan speed

- Nozzle diameter in S3D is 0,4 and also the extrusion-width is 0,4mm

- extrusion-multiplier is 1.00

- Retract.-length is 5mm with 45mm/s and Retraction Vertical lift (=z hob) of 0,2mm

- Casting distance is 0,4mm and nozzle wipe distance is 5,0mm

Is this overextrusion caused by to high hotend-temperature and because of this a to strong material flow, or are the e-steps are to high? but with 492,45 e-steps i feed only 97mm (roughly).

or is it maybe related to the vase-mode?

Thanks a lot and warm regards,

Toni

Edited January 4, 2017 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

@Techniktoni

Esteps with bowden are a tricky thing. Because filament flex inside the bowden and you can't just push Material through the nozzle like a direct drive could. That's why that esteps you got are higher. (Anyhow there must be something weird on your esteps measuring because you should get less not more).

Anyway try to measure that pushing material through the nozzle and check how much filament was push.

More about the magic % missing

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/19330-esteps-and-ultimaker-o-and-the-magic-missing-10?page=last

Basically if too cood more compression on the bowden, if too hot little compression and less control. The good spot depends on what temps you want to calibrate (if you are aiming at the most perfect extrusion possible).

[Techniktoni 1]

maybee i made something total wrong.

For evaluation of the e-steps, i put an older Bowdentube in an cut it to 101mm lengt.

Than i cut a 3mm (in diameter) steel rod and cut it to 99mm and put it into the bowden.

I moved the material (with the Thinkergnome-ware) into the bowdentube and pushed the rod close to the upper end of the bowden.

I left the rod 2mm below the cutted edge of my bowden. This is was my 0.

Than i moved the material 100.00mm up with the Thinkergnome-ware (during that, i pulled out the rod). I din't send any g-Code to the UM2 with the S3D-software.

After the 100.00mm has been shown on the display i measured the real length.

with 508,95 and 99,445 (average of 4 trys) i got 511,79 e steps.

I thought the formula is:

New e-steps= actual e-steps*(100mm (ordered length)/99,445mm (measured length))

[neotko 1,417]

Yea the problem is that filament doesn't extrude on a bowden like a steel tod. Try to measure 10cm (as a starting point) of extrusion at the temperature desired and extrude it at the extrusion speed you use.

Or easier. Mark the filament outside the bowden, heat to 200-210-220 (3 tests) and on each temp move 10cm off filament (move as in extrude). You will be able to actually see that at each temp the amount of filament moved is less/more by a small amount.

Also, you can just do estep calibration by eye.

Oh also and very important for estep calibration. All umo/um2/um2+ firmwares have a bug. Everytime you change esteps the immediate next move will be wrong. So, change estep, move 1mm, and then move 10cm (or the amount desired). But remember the first movement just after changing estep value will be absolutely wrong.

Edited January 4, 2017 by Guest