Yes @tinkergnome is right.
The screw that holds the bearing is probably pushing the yoke further from the printer plate, and that's why it's not in the good position.
Look here i made a tutorial to install it:
http://www.ideato3d.be/tutoriels/how-do-i-change-the-feeder-of-the-ultimaker-2/
@tinkergnome This is the photo:
Show me what's not good about this feeder? Thank you.
Look at my tutorial, everything is explained and with pics.
The problem comes from the screw that is holding the bearing. It should not need a bolt and should be placed the other way around like this:
Look at my tutorial, everything is explained and with pics.
The problem comes from the screw that is holding the bearing. It should not need a bolt and should be placed the other way around like this:
Hi,
thank you very much, alternative um2 feeder version-two about |Robert| works.
Thank you again.
Christian
I think I'm going to have to add some text to the yoke that shows which side to put the screw into. It seems somewhat common that people put it in the wrong way around and add a nut to it.
Yes @tinkergnome is right.
The screw that holds the bearing is probably pushing the yoke further from the printer plate, and that's why it's not in the good position.
Look here i made a tutorial to install it:
http://www.ideato3d.be/tutoriels/how-do-i-change-the-feeder-of-the-ultimaker-2/
Thank you so much for the Tutorial.
I had one question, can I print the feeder parts in PLA or Nylon?
I've always used PLA. I haven't tested nylon but I would worry that it's a bit too soft.
I've always used PLA. I haven't tested nylon but I would worry that it's a bit too soft.
Thanks Robert, can't wait to finally try out your feeder.
Thanks Robert, can't wait to finally try out your feeder.
If I can make a recommendation it would be to go with the older body design rather than the one designed to use the metal grommet.
Thanks Robert, can't wait to finally try out your feeder.
If I can make a recommendation it would be to go with the older body design rather than the one designed to use the metal grommet.
The one where you cut a part of the Bowden?
Actually the downloads on YouMagine are a bit confusing.
Can you tell me which files should I download, I currently have printed only one part "Feeder Body For Grommet".
I'd go with:
Feeder v6 arm
Feeder v6 body
Feeder v6 latch
Feeder v6 snap on guide (not always necessary to use but good to have)
Feeder v6 Yoke and hub 38mm
I'd go with:
Feeder v6 arm
Feeder v6 body
Feeder v6 latch
Feeder v6 snap on guide (not always necessary to use but good to have)
Feeder v6 Yoke and hub 38mm
Cool, that's a big help.
Thanks man!
I'd go with:
Feeder v6 arm
Feeder v6 body
Feeder v6 latch
Feeder v6 snap on guide (not always necessary to use but good to have)
Feeder v6 Yoke and hub 38mm
Hi Robert,
So, today I tried installing your feeder but got stuck at probably the worst place.
I couldn't, I mean absolutely couldn't screw in the spring with dual washers where the 30mm M3 goes into the nut. The nut is so deep down that it's very hard to get the screw to thread in, the spring is very tight and I was unable to get the screw to enter the nut.
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Unless you guys have super crazy strength I think it's absolutely impossible to get the screw in. I might be doing something wrong but I couldn't figure out what as I followed this Tutorial on YouTube and did exactly what the guy did -
In fact I called my friend to compress the springs while I tried to screw it in but the screw tension was so high that pliers lost grip after a point and I was afraid of damaging the spring in so I abandoned the assembly and re-assembled the old feeder.
I also need some help regarding certain specifications -
1) Can you tell the me the exact spec of the Ball Bearing? Just in-case I damage it.
2) Where can I buy replacement springs of the old feeder?
Kind of upset that I wasn't able to get it done today cause I had an whole day off!
Anyway, I do want to re-attempt it soon but I'm sort of hesitant to be honest.
Thanks!
the spring is an alcomex D2110
http://webshop.alcomex.nl/producten/drukveren/compression-springsteel-19981.html
the bearing is a 688-2RS (8x16x5)
1
If you can't get the screw to the nut, check that the nut it's really all the way in. Easiest way to do it, insert the screw without the spring and tight it until the nut goes to the very end. Then you should be able to put the screw with the spring.
Edited by Guest
2
If you can't get the screw to the nut, check that the nut it's really all the way in. Easiest way to do it, insert the screw without the spring and tight it until the nut goes to the very end. Then you should be able to put the screw with the spring.
I actually was able to narrow down the issue. Upon further study I noticed the nut wouldn't stay put at it's location so when I tried to screw in -
The nut was getting pushed upwards and hence the screw wasn't able to thread in. I think a re-print could solve this issue but I distinctly remember that I never filed or sanded the hole to accommodate the nut. I wonder how the nut would fair with time if i were to constantly change the tension, perhaps a design oversight or am I using a wrong nut? I'm just using the nut that came out of the original feeder but today I went and bought some aftermarket nuts just to see if there was any improvement but no luck so far.
I wanted to use CA Glue to set the nut but CA has zero adhesion with PLA.
yes, I had the same experience, ended up looking for a counter pressure to keep the nut in place while pushing on the bolt on the other side. So something with a flat side as big as the nut. And an extra set of hands would be helpful.
1
By the look of the print I think you printed it just a bit too hot/too fast. One of the side effects of this it's that the printer leaves extra drops of filament. I have printed the feeder way too many times and I still remember that the first time I did I thought of printing it fast fast fast to avoid waiting. But that will give you a part that might give you troubles. Think of this as one of the most important prints. Make it solid, print it at no more than 0.2 and give it some love 
Edit. By solid I don't say 100% infill but 3-4 top/bottom layers and 26% infill. That's how I like my roberts !
By the look of the print I think you printed it just a bit too hot/too fast. One of the side effects of this it's that the printer leaves extra drops of filament. I have printed the feeder way too many times and I still remember that the first time I did I thought of printing it fast fast fast to avoid waiting. But that will give you a part that might give you troubles. Think of this as one of the most important prints. Make it solid, print it at no more than 0.2 and give it some love
Edit. By solid I don't say 100% infill but 3-4 top/bottom layers and 26% infill. That's how I like my roberts
!
Hmmm, yeah I have to print another set anyway so I'll keep that in mind, thanks!
In my derivative feeder I always use the screw the other way around, from inside to outside, makes mounting a lot easier, just use a longer screw.
If you can't find a screw with a hex head you can make one from a normal screw, and move a hex nut al the way to the head, fix with some locktite.
1
Unless you guys have super crazy strength I think it's absolutely impossible to get the screw in.
In fact I called my friend to compress the springs while I tried to screw it in but the screw tension was so high that pliers lost grip after a point and I was afraid of damaging the spring in so I abandoned the assembly and re-assembled the old feeder.
Well I'm certainly not crazy strong. I've never used pliers to compress the spring, I can't quite see how you would even use pliers for it 
Yes, the nut might be loose or tight depending on your print. If tight, do what neotko described. If it wont stay in place a small dab of glue should be enough to keep it in place until you get the screw in. I've assembled it with a nut that was flapping around freely though so it's not impossible or anything.
What I do is to keep the assembly in my left palm and then put the screw driver in and push to compress the spring and start rotating it until it catches the nut. A hex/torx is recommended to avoid slipping and stabbing a hole in your hand. Hell, hex/torx is _always_ recommended IMHO, hate those damn slot screws, they're useless for everything.
I've assembled and used "a couple" of these feeders over the years with all the different iterations and I've never had any trouble with them. I've only snapped one arm but that was my own fault, I was way too rough with it. I also prefer the "original" body version with the bowden tube, the "improvement" I was talked into making is worse IMO.
Hadn't seen that video before, didn't know there were actual installation instructions for it (I've always thought it's pretty self explanatory...). I'm a bit curious what he says about the different body types though, I heard "bowden" in there but that was all I understood
Unless you guys have super crazy strength I think it's absolutely impossible to get the screw in.
In fact I called my friend to compress the springs while I tried to screw it in but the screw tension was so high that pliers lost grip after a point and I was afraid of damaging the spring in so I abandoned the assembly and re-assembled the old feeder.
Well I'm certainly not crazy strong. I've never used pliers to compress the spring, I can't quite see how you would even use pliers for it
Yes, the nut might be loose or tight depending on your print. If tight, do what neotko described. If it wont stay in place a small dab of glue should be enough to keep it in place until you get the screw in. I've assembled it with a nut that was flapping around freely though so it's not impossible or anything.
What I do is to keep the assembly in my left palm and then put the screw driver in and push to compress the spring and start rotating it until it catches the nut. A hex/torx is recommended to avoid slipping and stabbing a hole in your hand. Hell, hex/torx is _always_ recommended IMHO, hate those damn slot screws, they're useless for everything.
I've assembled and used "a couple" of these feeders over the years with all the different iterations and I've never had any trouble with them. I've only snapped one arm but that was my own fault, I was way too rough with it. I also prefer the "original" body version with the bowden tube, the "improvement" I was talked into making is worse IMO.
Hadn't seen that video before, didn't know there were actual installation instructions for it (I've always thought it's pretty self explanatory...). I'm a bit curious what he says about the different body types though, I heard "bowden" in there but that was all I understood
I'm waiting for the Feeder springs, they should be here in a couple of days. I'll attempt the assembly once again after I get it.
Thanks for the advice!
Hey guys!
Sorry for the late update, I got very busy with work. Anyway, I finally managed to get Robert's feeder installed and it works beautifully, I'm a bit pissed at myself to not have upgraded to this feeder from day 1, even Izzy suggested I do but just never did!
Robert is a 3D Printing God, this feeder is awesome with NinjaFlex and SemiFlex, I spent hours and hours trying to get NinjaFlex working reliably on the stock feeder and it was just not possible to get it working reliably, the Printer needed my full attention but with Robert's feeder, WOW!
I do think SemiFlex prints beautifully without the "Snap-On Guide" as it doesn't buckle in that length but NinjaFlex requires the Guide for sure.
I need to talk about Spring, I bough these from DHGate (http://www.dhgate.com/product/10pcs-3d-printer-feeder-spring-for-ultimaker/246309407.html#myaccount_orderdetail-1-null) thinking they would be exactly as the Alcomex (Impossible to buy one that would ship to my Country) one and the seller specifically said "Feeder Spring" but obviously it was different, not too bad....just a bit longer and it did work with Robert's feeder you just need to cut your M3 to 35-38mm depending on the type of tension you want. I used 35mm.
Here are a few pics with the aftermarket springs being used, I later removed it cause I thought there was an issue but it was nothing, it does work just fine.
Overall, this and the Olsson Block have really made my experience great, thank you - IRobertI, ultiarjan, neotko and peggyb for helping me out, I still need to put some hours into the Feeder to understand it properly but so far so good!
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tinkergnome 926
Looks like the screw of the ballbearing touches the wall. I think the "Yoke" is mounted in a wrong way? The screw head should facing you (if you look from behind the printer) - it's screwed directly into the plastic on the inner side. The screw hole is a bit smaller on one side - no nut needed. All other things are looking ok (to me) on the picture.
...but open the latch (and the arm) to feed material (by hand) - it's much easier.
BTW: consider to upload your photo here (to your album) - those picture services are a bit annoying...
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