Can I use a smaller nozzle for a high resolution model?

[swq0603 1]

I am new in 3d printing. Now I am just using a 0.4mm nozzle which is fine for some nomal model. But if I print some more detailed models such as the Eiffel Tower. The result is not satisfied. There are many thin parts in it. So I am curious whether a smaller nozzle (0.25) can make a good result for it.

[Labern 775]

Yes you can get a lot more details with a smaller nozzle. What is hard is overhangs. As the printed strands are a lot smaller they can break off. So models with lots of overhangs are not so good.

Support material breaks off a lot easier with smaller nozzles, so if you need support its great. Using support roof enabled on the new Cura comes out supper smooth and peels off really easy.

I use smaller nozzles all the time and love using them. The only problem is the print time is a lot longer. Not much longer on models like the Eiffel tower as it doesn't have a big base. But you can see how long but changing the nozzle size in Cura.

[swq0603 1]

Thank you Labern. I will try a smaller nozzle later. Now I generally use 0.4 nozzle with the 0.1 layer height. Is there a suitable layer height for each different nozzle to achieve a good result? For example the 0.05 is good for 0.25 nozzle and the 0.2 is good for 0.8 nozzle.

[Labern 775]

Yeah there kind of is. but its kind of speed and part related.

If you are installing a 0.8mm nozzle It generally means that your not really wanting high details, just fast prints. Most details get rounded off a bit and my last 0.8 nozzle print was at .25 layer and came out pretty good.

For any nozzles smaller then 0.4 you can get a finer details and can lower the layers quite a bit but you don't need to lower the layer heights much. 0.08mm layers look the same on 0.4 and 0.25 nozzle, you just end up with less rounded edges. Things like lettering end up really clear where you may have had gaps if it was 0.4 nozzle.

Angles print better with lower layer heights but overhangs print better with higher ones. How long prints take also have an effect. So its really part dependent.

The new cura which will hopefully be out of beta testing soon is really good for setting up print profiles. So you will be able to make lots of different ones for different nozzles and different situations.

[swq0603 1]

Got it! I will try once the nozzle is ready. Thanks a lot!

 

Yeah there kind of is. but its kind of speed and part related.

If you are installing a 0.8mm nozzle It generally means that your not really wanting high details, just fast prints. Most details get rounded off a bit and my last 0.8 nozzle print was at .25 layer and came out pretty good.

For any nozzles smaller then 0.4 you can get a finer details and can lower the layers quite a bit but you don't need to lower the layer heights much. 0.08mm layers look the same on 0.4 and 0.25 nozzle, you just end up with less rounded edges. Things like lettering end up really clear where you may have had gaps if it was 0.4 nozzle.

Angles print better with lower layer heights but overhangs print better with higher ones. How long prints take also have an effect. So its really part dependent.

The new cura which will hopefully be out of beta testing soon is really good for setting up print profiles. So you will be able to make lots of different ones for different nozzles and different situations.

 

[SandervG 1,521]

Yeah there kind of is. but its kind of speed and part related.

If you are installing a 0.8mm nozzle It generally means that your not really wanting high details, just fast prints. Most details get rounded off a bit and my last 0.8 nozzle print was at .25 layer and came out pretty good.

For any nozzles smaller then 0.4 you can get a finer details and can lower the layers quite a bit but you don't need to lower the layer heights much. 0.08mm layers look the same on 0.4 and 0.25 nozzle, you just end up with less rounded edges. Things like lettering end up really clear where you may have had gaps if it was 0.4 nozzle.

Angles print better with lower layer heights but overhangs print better with higher ones. How long prints take also have an effect. So its really part dependent.

The new cura which will hopefully be out of beta testing soon is really good for setting up print profiles. So you will be able to make lots of different ones for different nozzles and different situations.

 

In your answer, what do you mean by angles, compared to overhangs?

Perhaps it would make sense to add the dimension you are talking about.

[MarcusWolschon 7]

Should a larger nozzle (0.8 or 1.0mm instead of 0.4) allow me to use smaller layer-heights and thus better vertical surface finish and detail if horizontal details are not the concern?

Currently I use 0.020 and 0.015mm (20 micron and 15 micron) and the limit seems to be that the flow rate of the extruder(smooth motion) and of the hot-end (heat creep=expansion) can't go lower then this while the Z-drive has 5 micron per full step.

[Labern 775]

 

Yeah there kind of is. but its kind of speed and part related.

If you are installing a 0.8mm nozzle It generally means that your not really wanting high details, just fast prints. Most details get rounded off a bit and my last 0.8 nozzle print was at .25 layer and came out pretty good.

For any nozzles smaller then 0.4 you can get a finer details and can lower the layers quite a bit but you don't need to lower the layer heights much. 0.08mm layers look the same on 0.4 and 0.25 nozzle, you just end up with less rounded edges. Things like lettering end up really clear where you may have had gaps if it was 0.4 nozzle.

Angles print better with lower layer heights but overhangs print better with higher ones. How long prints take also have an effect. So its really part dependent.

The new cura which will hopefully be out of beta testing soon is really good for setting up print profiles. So you will be able to make lots of different ones for different nozzles and different situations.

 

In your answer, what do you mean by angles, compared to overhangs?

Perhaps it would make sense to add the dimension you are talking about.

 

Yeah my bad. I use the wrong terms.

So angles i mean overhangs like this

And overhangs I meant Bridges where the filament spans over a gap of a horizontal plan like this

[Labern 775]

Should a larger nozzle (0.8 or 1.0mm instead of 0.4) allow me to use smaller layer-heights and thus better vertical surface finish and detail if horizontal details are not the concern?

Currently I use 0.020 and 0.015mm (20 micron and 15 micron) and the limit seems to be that the flow rate of the extruder(smooth motion) and of the hot-end (heat creep=expansion) can't go lower then this while the Z-drive has 5 micron per full step.

 

Well in theory this would make the extruder move faster but you would really have to get the settings just right. It would be really easy for it to over extrude.

The printer isn't accurate enough at such low microns between the feeder and bed. You get a lot more control at 0.04 and I find the quality much more repeatable and a better finish.

If you are wanting to print at those layer heights all the time then I would recommend getting a geared feeder or 1.75mm filament conversion kit or both.

[neotko 1,417]

To have a geared feeder option, the Meduza bolt addon works quite well for me so far.

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17033-meduzas-bolt-on-belt-geared-feeder-upgrade-for-um2

It's a 1.8:1 gear addon

[swq0603 1]

My understanding is that I can use the filament conversion kit to change the filament quickly between the 1.75mm and the 3mm, just like the Olsson block, right? Is there a link to show how it works? Now I am using the 1.75 filament, not sure what the the difference of the model with 1.75mm or 3mm filament. If it is convinient to change, I also want to have a try:)

 

 

Should a larger nozzle (0.8 or 1.0mm instead of 0.4) allow me to use smaller layer-heights and thus better vertical surface finish and detail if horizontal details are not the concern?

Currently I use 0.020 and 0.015mm (20 micron and 15 micron) and the limit seems to be that the flow rate of the extruder(smooth motion) and of the hot-end (heat creep=expansion) can't go lower then this while the Z-drive has 5 micron per full step.

 

Well in theory this would make the extruder move faster but you would really have to get the settings just right. It would be really easy for it to over extrude.  

The printer isn't accurate enough at such low microns between the feeder and bed. You get a lot more control at 0.04 and I find the quality much more repeatable and a better finish.

If you are wanting to print at those layer heights all the time then I would recommend getting a geared feeder or 1.75mm filament conversion kit or both.

 

[Labern 775]

The best way is to have 2 olsson blocks installed. One side 2.85mm the other 1.75mm. You install tinkergnomes firmware and remove the nozzle on one side while your printing with the other.

The kit comes with the correct sized PTFE coupler and smaller hole in the Olsson Block plus bowden tube. You need to buy the 1.75mm nozzles from E3d.

[gr5 2,210]

@swq0603 for a limited time my conversion kits come with a nozzle also. 2 or 3 left I think. No rush as these are not big sellers and 3 kits should last a few months. But the next few kits have no nozzles so you have to get them elsewhere.

I don't recommend the kit unless you already have lots of 1.75mm filament going to waste.

I also don't recommend owning 2 sizes of filament as that just results in more waste and more storage and more keeping track of which filaments you are running out of.

If you do want to be able to print both then you should also get a complete head so get the steel coupler, the spring, the teflon insert, heater, temp sensor. It's a lot of stuff to buy. The advantage is you can quickly swap bowdens and change which heater is active in the "tinker marlin". So once you are set up, switching takes about a minute.

For USA/canada/mexico people only these kits are here: gr5.org/store/ For other countries start at 3dsolex.com.