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Edel

Inofill ok, Colorfabb with problems?

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Hi there,

it's hard to explain it in words, so i made a lot of photos now....

frist i used the silver PLA inofil, all good...

then i switched to black Colorfabb PLA, i had a lot of problems with it, so i went down to 200°C from 210°C.

I printed now many different parts, and all are worser then the Inofil in Silver or White i have here... (this i print in 210°C)

please see the frist ring on all part.... its smooth and ok, but at the balck its jagged...

why?

5a33162f63640_Foto11_01.16213149.thumb.jpg.b549f6942c28fe5db27ea8da22731e3b.jpg

5a3316300dbb4_Foto11_01.16214112.thumb.jpg.42e188a06676e15f0071299d21582eda.jpg

5a3316306caa8_Foto11_01.16213201.thumb.jpg.709e6cb0bb82cd12275105593e4c3f27.jpg

you see all other parts are at the some corner smooth....

ok here an other example..

[undefined=9778][/undefined]

same problem here with this ring,,,, also very sharp and jaggy on the black colorfabb and so good at the white inofill.

So is the Colorfabb Filament so bad or do i something wrong?

:)

5a33162f63640_Foto11_01.16213149.thumb.jpg.b549f6942c28fe5db27ea8da22731e3b.jpg

5a3316300dbb4_Foto11_01.16214112.thumb.jpg.42e188a06676e15f0071299d21582eda.jpg

5a3316306caa8_Foto11_01.16213201.thumb.jpg.709e6cb0bb82cd12275105593e4c3f27.jpg

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ive used tons of black colorfabb, and taking photos of it was always impossible in any lighting situation, lol. Unless its been acetoned of course ;) but that one doesnt look like it has. Good reminder though, I need to get more filament, black is high on my list.

Edited by Guest
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If PLA comes out matte it's usually because it's too cold. Have you tried going up to 220C?

Also, is that a Cortical stimulator perhaps? :)

 

Do you need medical support ;) ?

To cold, ok, i read alot and there they said, where i had the problems with 210, thats to hot, go lower, the best print is, to find the minimum temperatur...

and also i saw in the filament which came out of the nozzel at 200 are consistent, completly.... but at 210 or higher there were same (not bubbles or so, its hard to explain) but it were not consistent...

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Every filament on YOUR printer has an optimum temp. for a given group of print settings. To get really good prints you need to test this and establish the optimum. Generally speaking cooler is better than hotter. When I test I keep reducing the temp. until I get to a point where it has degraded - normally under-extrusion.

Most major filament manufacturers provide a specification and I have never seen a maximum figure above 220c and I Colorfabb was 215c - I am talking here about normal PLA not brassofill etc.

These days I never go above 210 and am often under 200. I have dropped 10-15c since first joining the forum. Too many people on the forum quote too high a temperature. I suspect that probably results from the problems with the UM feed system - but pushing the temp. rather than fixing the feed system does you no favours.

So concentrate on the optimum for your printer rather than worrying whether it is too low or too high, especially compared with other people's views. And do not forget that a different colour from the same manufacturer can have a different optimum temp. - the colour dyes have an impact

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@Edel,

In the gcode, look for the M104 command. Example:

M104 S205 ; set temperature

Then add it to the gcode produced from your slicer, after the end blocks, like this:

...

G92 E0

M104 S200 ; set temperature

G1 Z10.200 F7800.000

...

Set the correct temp based on the Z location from the command:

G1 Z

Add all temperatures to the gcode near the command to move to a new Z in the correct order as shown above.

Link http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:211514

Edited by Guest

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Use CURA and tweakatZ to change the temperature. I usually print something with a single wall when I am doing temp tests. like a cube and cylinder put together so you can see curve and corners.

I have a bunch of temp test files I use but have not gotten around to putting on youmagine.com

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