Dual Cooling fan upgrade for UMO+

[Blake215 0]

I was wondering if anyone knew of a way that I could upgrade my UMO+ to have a dual fan configuration. When I print objects with overhangs the side with the fan on it prints perfectly fine. However, the opposite side prints overhangs pretty bad. I was wondering if upgrading to this would be possible or if there is a solution that does not require me to upgrade to a dual fan configuration. [/media][/media]

[Blake215 0]

[Blake215 0]

[tommyph1208 55]

Its quite simple to add another fan to the printhead... Just search online (thingiverse/youmagine) for an additional/dual fan duct for the UMO and buy another 40mm. 12v fan.

[neotko 1,417]

Remember that UMO+ uses 24v. As a personal recommendation, don't go beyond 200mA for the total amps. The other way around it's to use x2 12v fans on serial like UM2 does. You could even order the fans to ultimaker with the wiring and make a new fan support... But anyhow. If you want to improve air on the other side the fastest way it's to do something like...

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/umo-extra-right-fan

Anyhow, I did not finish the designs, so just use it as a starting point for the clamp on the m5 long screws (if you want).

Other think that you could do it's print a curved wind shield so the air that goes on the sides bounces to the right side of the print area...

I stopped designing fan caps for standard umo+ because I changed the nozzles to e3d, and unless you cut the alu cap or change the endstops... bla bla bla... long story short, I hope that helps

[peetersm 124]

Other think that you could do it's print a curved wind shield so the air that goes on the sides bounces to the right side of the print area...

 

I like the bounce idea since it would not reduce the build area.

I too am trying to decide how to add better air flow on my UMO+

[neotko 1,417]

Yeah I'll design one someday. Also if you add another fan on the right it doesn't affect the print area as long as you leave the 3mm gap from the nozzle so it don't hits the bed clips and you keep the other fan at the same high of the left one so it doesn't hit anything.

[Titus 170]

Following the topic

I was interested in trying it with the UM2 fans, as they seem a bit stronger and more silent. Also you sacrifice less build area.

[neotko 1,417]

If you want to use the um2 fans they are taller, so you would need to make a mayor redesign. On the ultimaker 2 github you can find the complete assembly of umo and um2 on step files.

[Blake215 0]

Remember that UMO+ uses 24v. As a personal recommendation, don't go beyond 200mA for the total amps. The other way around it's to use x2 12v fans on serial like UM2 does. You could even order the fans to ultimaker with the wiring and make a new fan support... But anyhow. If you want to improve air on the other side the fastest way it's to do something like...

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/umo-extra-right-fan

Anyhow, I did not finish the designs, so just use it as a starting point for the clamp on the m5 long screws (if you want).

Other think that you could do it's print a curved wind shield so the air that goes on the sides bounces to the right side of the print area...

I stopped designing fan caps for standard umo+ because I changed the nozzles to e3d, and unless you cut the alu cap or change the endstops... bla bla bla... long story short, I hope that helps

 

If I decide on the two 12V fans is there any possibility that the current will be too high. I calculated it and I figured that the current will be right at 200mA.

[neotko 1,417]

In theory, even though that um2 uses this, if you use x2 fans connected in serial the problem could be that if one stops, don't starts, etc, the one running could make a spike. I don't think that it would break anything but in my experience the pwm fan it's quite weak and, maybe was just my board, I had to change the transistor 4 times because of fans spikes of different kinds. And I had to learn to solder on smd because of that (quite fun btw).

This was the first time happened to me:

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17214-fan-pwm-output-0v-umo-board-solved-not-solved-?page=last'>https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17214-fan-pwm-output-0v-umo-board-solved-not-solved-?page=last'>https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17214-fan-pwm-output-0v-umo-board-solved-not-solved-?page=last'>https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17214-fan-pwm-output-0v-umo-board-solved-not-solved-?page=last

And this was the third and fourth:

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17214-fan-pwm-output-0v-umo-board-solved-not-solved-?page=last

Also the little external pwn didn't stop the transistor from dying.

But for your question. Should it work? It should since um2 also uses x2 0.1mA fans. But carefull with the minimum pwm to make it 'on' or the fans could build energy and then spike back (in theory that's protected by a resistor).

[neotko 1,417]

As a third, more expensive maybe, option, you could send a ticket to support.ultimaker.com and ask them to sell you a fan pack for the um2, this way you get the cables (I think) and the same specs fans).

[tommyph1208 55]

Did you consider the crossflow fan approach? (Forum topic here)

I have a setup like that and I'm really happy with it...

It is only blowing from one side, but doing so all the time (not only when the printhead is over an area of plastic) which somewhat counters that downside... As a bonus, it gives you the smallest printhead/maximum amount of build area possible and makes for some sick overhangs...

Edited January 13, 2016 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

Crossflow fans rocks. Just don't plug it on the pwm fan, that's how I broke the transistor the first time

[tommyph1208 55]

Crossflow fans rocks. Just don't plug it on the pwm fan, that's how I broke the transistor the first time

 

I have mine plugged into a pwm port on my RUMBA board and it has been running fine like that for months and months... I call UM electronics fail

[neotko 1,417]

Rumba uses mosfet and probably can handle more power.

[IRobertI 520]

I have mine plugged into a pwm port on my RUMBA board and it has been running fine like that for months and months... I call UM electronics fail

 

Yeah, I mean, why wouldn't UM design their board to run gigantic fans even when they don't use them...

c'mon now

[tommyph1208 55]

 

I have mine plugged into a pwm port on my RUMBA board and it has been running fine like that for months and months... I call UM electronics fail

 

Yeah, I mean, why wouldn't UM design their board to run gigantic fans even when they don't use them...

c'mon now

 

I see what you are getting at, and from a cost optimization point of view it makes perfect sense... I respect you and the work you have done in this community, so I don't want to get into an internet fight here... But:

I could go in the other direction and say they are not THAT gigantic... A fan like mine is I think, around 0.4A (a typical 40mm. axial fan is what? 0.1-0.2A?).

Designing a RepRap inspired product, like the UMO is/was, to just its needed spec and not a dime more, meaning the first time a user hooks up any sort of mod (be it an additional fan, LED strips, a heated bed, whatever), electronic components fry left and right, to me, is a bit disappointing.

The UM is not a cheap China product, and so IMO it wouldn't have hurt if there was just a little bit of room left for mods and improvements... I think this is especially true, because of the nature of the product and its community - But thats just my opinion.

Edited January 13, 2016 by Guest

[IRobertI 520]

I know where you're coming from, and I agree to a point. Just struck a nerve I guess hehe.

Playing devil's advocate a bit I could flip it around and say that if you're willing to modify your printer you wouldn't have an issue with replacing the transistor for something beefier to make it work.

Fite me bro!

[tommyph1208 55]

I know where you're coming from, and I agree to a point. Just struck a nerve I guess hehe.

Playing devil's advocate a bit I could flip it around and say that if you're willing to modify your printer you wouldn't have an issue with replacing the transistor for something beefier to make it work.

Fite me bro!

 

I started reading forum posts about operations to do stuff like that and figured that given my electronics skills/experience (read: not that great) it would be better/easier for me to simply swap the board - which is what I did.

I am fine with that as well, I long ago gave up on this being a cheap hobby...

It does pain me a bit though that the board I pulled out wasn't actually cheap when taking the price of the printer into consideration.

Anyway, I think we might be thread-hijacking a bit here... what @neotko mentioned is probably a very real risk, and something to be taken into consideration in relation to running crossflow fans (or bigger/more fans in general) on the stock UM electronics.

[neotko 1,417]

Sorry IRobertI but even it's true that um2.1 board don't need cooling, they do in summer in spain or steppers go bad-s-crazy. Also I bet any board 1 year has starter gettting the stepper chips brownish. It's true one can mod it and install fans to cool it, but it would be just nice to have a 25x25x10 silent fan like the ones on new um2+ focused on the stepper chips.

Also um2 boards rock, but if there where any other board with pt100 and the chance of using one more stepper, I would have jump ship to have the crossflow fan installed (it's on a box) and controlled by gcode.

[LePaul 321]

Interesting thread, I just got the heated bed working on my UMO and the idea of dual fans seems like a good idea (my robot test print had some real overhang troubles on the right side)

I see fans of all shape and size online and wondering if you can 'splice in' another fan into the existing fan's power lead?

[LePaul 321]

I just noticed that you have a UMO+ so the fan is different than that of a UMO

I'm searching for an add-on solution, as you did, for something like this to fit the UMO

[Blake215 0]

Hey guys, sorry I haven't replied in a while but I've been working on a solution and I found one. I printed these brackets http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:271684 and they work pretty well. To go on it I bought two DC 12V 0.1A 40mm x 40mm 2 Pin Connector PC CPU Computer Case Brushless DC Fan from Amazon and then I cut off the old fan and wired the new ones in series. It really was not that hard to do once I found all of the supplies. One problem that I do see though is insufficient air flow. I haven't printed anything with them yet, but we'll see how well they work.

[neotko 1,417]

The only problem I see on that kind of airflow it's that the alu block it's way too exposed to air. If you need to cool the printed part at 1mm z the temp might go down too much and build preassure that can grind filament, pop bowden or just underextrude. I really think that any kind of air-block it's a must to have a reliable air cooling. Ofc after all that you need the best air physics posible, not just air.

There's a lot of profound study about it on a foehnsturm post about simetrical fans for umo, that was abandoned in favor for the more efficient crossflow fan (imo the best pla cooling system but a bit restrictive for other materials).