PLA Treating. Where do I buy Chloroform?

[Giogiogio4 7]

I looked over the vaping guide and it seems like a cool idea... But Chloroform on the other hand I thought was

a hard to get or rather illegal substance for the average Joe. Any ideas or better methods?

I only see a $50 bottle online. And that's it really...

[cloakfiend 996]

You should be able to pick some up at the local kidnappers warehouse, lol.

I think you need a licence for that. Its a very dangerous chemical. just like mercury. Just use acetone like me, much safer.

[Giogiogio4 7]

You should be able to pick some up at the local kidnappers warehouse, lol.

I think you need a licence for that. Its a very dangerous chemical. just like mercury. Just use acetone like me, much safer.

 

Does that work on PLA as well? Every time I see it mentioned I see ABS.

[cloakfiend 996]

Works only on Standard Colorfabb and old discontinued Ultimaker PLA filament from my experience, but that is because I'm only using colorfabb, its pha with pla, acetone will not work with only PLA! And forget about the cloud chamber, I've had people complaining to me that it doesnt work, when they didn't even read my thread!!!

I've been doing it for over a year and a half, I know it works.

Check my acetone thread out in the art of printing section, read it all to get the best idea, and check out the video (red face one as its the newest)

Good Luck. It takes some getting used to, and i have a different method now, but its a good start. Its not as aggressive as acetone on ABS so you may still have some faint lines but on the plus side you will keep all the fine details unlike ABS with acetone. All my models in the gallery have been acetoned.

P.s. expect to ruin some models experimenting BTW! warping and total destruction is an issue if you aren't careful.

Edited February 12, 2016 by Guest

[Labern 775]

I brought chloroform from the local chemist. They didn't ask any questions but they had to order it in for me.

It makes the print supper smooth and shiny unlike acetone on Pla.

[izzy 33]

It's ok for you down under, no chance here in the UK of getting it unless you work in a chemical lab.

[Labern 775]

I thought the same. Even read it on the net that it's illegal but couldn't find any law against it so just went and asked.

[izzy 33]

Forgot to say congrats on getting second place for your cannon print

[cloakfiend 996]

I brought chloroform from the local chemist. They didn't ask any questions but they had to order it in for me.

It makes the print supper smooth and shiny unlike acetone on Pla.

 

You are lucky that you can get it, does it give you the white residue, and does it warp like acetone.?

I have a friend who is a doctor, i may have to ask him, lol.

Edited February 13, 2016 by Guest

[Labern 775]

I brought chloroform from the local chemist. They didn't ask any questions but they had to order it in for me.

It makes the print supper smooth and shiny unlike acetone on Pla.

You are lucky that you can get it, does it give you the white residue, and does it warp like acetone.?

I have a friend who is a doctor, i may have to ask him, lol.

No white residue. You end up with a really smooth shiny part. It remainds i little sticky so you need to leave it to fully harden overnight. have to be careful at the temp you vapor polish at as its can warp if to high. I know you are more used to dipping but I haven't tried that. I think it will melt it to much.

[cloakfiend 996]

How do very fine details hold up, and corners? My mate said he can get me 2.5 litres so i might try and see how it goes. I hope its not as destructive as acetone is on abs.

[Textronics 0]

http://www.hinmeijer.nl/product/25706/chloroform

[gr5 2,265]

 

@Labern can you post a photo of a chloroformed part?

[cloakfiend 996]

Im testing out a new method

[Labern 775]

@Labern can you post a photo of a chloroformed part?

 

This is done in about 20 - 30 seconds

This is done by heating the chloroform to 100deg. If you leave the print there for any longer it starts to over heat.

I'm yet to try it at even lower temps so it can stay there for a longer time and smooth more. I have heard that you can leave it at room temp over night which could be better for PLA so I might try that tonight.

[cloakfiend 996]

Hey labern,  what layer heights did you print those at?

Edited February 16, 2016 by Guest

[Labern 775]

0.1

I just grabed some rubbish print to test with. I may try higher layer heights like 0.25 to see how well it smooths them.

[cloakfiend 996]

Thats quite nice for 0.1 i dont think my method works for that height but maybe my new trials will solve that problem, only thing is you need to sacrifice more detail the lower res your settings are as the lines are bigger on the print so you need to smooth more.

[Labern 775]

So I have run some more tests. Close up photos don't really show how smooth and shiny they feel in person but its a good comparison.

[cloakfiend 996]

I know what you mean, even with my acetone method you cant really see the true model surface until you undercoat it. Something that looks awful can look perfect when sprayed, as print photographs are deceptive  but not not always, lol.

By the looks of it and the nature of the way spheres are printed with fdm (specially the tops) i cant ever imagine any model in low res keeping any detail after being melted, there is just not enough geometry to play with. 0.1 is my limit, but i like my hard edges, and non chamfered edges. 0.2 and above just doesnt cut it for my purposes.

Edited February 17, 2016 by Guest

[Labern 775]

I think If you do a good quality print but want the shiny look and feel then using a quick treatment of Chloroform will be great.

Although thicker layers do work, you loose details when you try and remove all the print lines as you say. But this I why I did this test to see how much of and effect this made.

I thought of using one of these flasks and block the top. so when heated the vapor comes out the side spout and you could use it like a spray gun. If it would work then you could do large prints.

[cloakfiend 996]

The treatment of large prints are always a problem, acetone can be sprayed/brushed on quite easily, so that it a positive aspect, but print times are high on the negative. Im waiting for some chems to arrive, hopefully ill have some positive results. Ill probably find out a perfect method only for sla to become dirt cheap, lol. I dont see that happening in the near future though. At least a few years in my opinion, but who knows?

[nallath 1,124]

It's ok for you down under, no chance here in the UK of getting it unless you work in a chemical lab.

 

http://www.chemicals.co.uk/chloroform

Doesn't seem to be a problem though.

[cloakfiend 996]

You need a licence though!

BTW, What's the difference between ethyl acetate and chloroform on PLA?

[Labern 775]

Ethyl Acetate won't fully dissolve PLA. I haven't tried vapor treatment using it, only dipping / wiping and it only has a slight effect. If you do it to much it will give white marks.