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Giogiogio4

PLA Treating. Where do I buy Chloroform?

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Works only on Standard Colorfabb and old discontinued Ultimaker PLA filament from my experience, but that is because I'm only using colorfabb, its pha with pla, acetone will not work with only PLA! And forget about the cloud chamber, I've had people complaining to me that it doesnt work, when they didn't even read my thread!!!

I've been doing it for over a year and a half, I know it works.

Check my acetone thread out in the art of printing section, read it all to get the best idea, and check out the video (red face one as its the newest)

Good Luck. It takes some getting used to, and i have a different method now, but its a good start. Its not as aggressive as acetone on ABS so you may still have some faint lines but on the plus side you will keep all the fine details unlike ABS with acetone. All my models in the gallery have been acetoned.

P.s. expect to ruin some models experimenting BTW! warping and total destruction is an issue if you aren't careful.

Edited by Guest

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I brought chloroform from the local chemist. They didn't ask any questions but they had to order it in for me.

It makes the print supper smooth and shiny unlike acetone on Pla.

 

You are lucky that you can get it, does it give you the white residue, and does it warp like acetone.?

I have a friend who is a doctor, i may have to ask him, lol.

Edited by Guest

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I brought chloroform from the local chemist. They didn't ask any questions but they had to order it in for me.

It makes the print supper smooth and shiny unlike acetone on Pla.

You are lucky that you can get it, does it give you the white residue, and does it warp like acetone.?

I have a friend who is a doctor, i may have to ask him, lol.

No white residue. You end up with a really smooth shiny part. It remainds i little sticky so you need to leave it to fully harden overnight. have to be careful at the temp you vapor polish at as its can warp if to high. I know you are more used to dipping but I haven't tried that. I think it will melt it to much.

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@Labern can you post a photo of a chloroformed part?

 

SAM_1010.thumb.JPG.e94429dfec934a4648294ee772924057.JPG

SAM_1009.thumb.JPG.bab4df1894f0c8b47806ae55f3840ece.JPG

SAM_1011.thumb.JPG.6e5d26949bb962544f2eb70bdbb60b76.JPG

SAM_1013.thumb.JPG.7344d3027c49152f3aa4b377749e7028.JPG

This is done in about 20 - 30 seconds

This is done by heating the chloroform to 100deg. If you leave the print there for any longer it starts to over heat.

I'm yet to try it at even lower temps so it can stay there for a longer time and smooth more. I have heard that you can leave it at room temp over night which could be better for PLA so I might try that tonight.

SAM_1010.thumb.JPG.e94429dfec934a4648294ee772924057.JPG

SAM_1009.thumb.JPG.bab4df1894f0c8b47806ae55f3840ece.JPG

SAM_1011.thumb.JPG.6e5d26949bb962544f2eb70bdbb60b76.JPG

SAM_1013.thumb.JPG.7344d3027c49152f3aa4b377749e7028.JPG

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I know what you mean, even with my acetone method you cant really see the true model surface until you undercoat it. Something that looks awful can look perfect when sprayed, as print photographs are deceptive  but not not always, lol.

By the looks of it and the nature of the way spheres are printed with fdm (specially the tops) i cant ever imagine any model in low res keeping any detail after being melted, there is just not enough geometry to play with. 0.1 is my limit, but i like my hard edges, and non chamfered edges. 0.2 and above just doesnt cut it for my purposes.

Edited by Guest

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I think If you do a good quality print but want the shiny look and feel then using a quick treatment of Chloroform will be great.

Although thicker layers do work, you loose details when you try and remove all the print lines as you say. But this I why I did this test to see how much of and effect this made.

s-l1000.thumb.jpg.6e04ecaad3030eb5ad4a785ca559cc58.jpg

I thought of using one of these flasks and block the top. so when heated the vapor comes out the side spout and you could use it like a spray gun. If it would work then you could do large prints.

s-l1000.thumb.jpg.6e04ecaad3030eb5ad4a785ca559cc58.jpg

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The treatment of large prints are always a problem, acetone can be sprayed/brushed on quite easily, so that it a positive aspect, but print times are high on the negative. Im waiting for some chems to arrive, hopefully ill have some positive results. Ill probably find out a perfect method only for sla to become dirt cheap, lol. I dont see that happening in the near future though. At least a few years in my opinion, but who knows?

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