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Error Temp bed sensor.

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Hello Members of Ultimaker.

My 3D printer gave me the following error: Temp bed sensor.

I have already switched the bed plate with an new one.

No luck.

I have checked the bed sensor cables visually and measured the continuity.

So the cable and bed seems to be oke.

I opened up the bottom plate where the PCB is located.

And saw that the solder joints were bad, so i resoldered them.

Then i tried to switch the TEMP 1 & 3 cables. And still no luck.

EDIT: I just tried to update the firmware. It updated correctly.

But the error still shows up.

Note: The bed is heated up, while the 3d printer is on but not printing?

Then i found this and took some pictures of it and posted them here below..

Can this be the cause of the error?..

And does someone know which part is burned down and if it can cause the system show up the error.

2h80l5z.jpg

24cefxl.jpg

Edited by Guest

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If i may, i don't think that the part which is burned down has anything to do with the Error showing up.

Anyway i have been told, that i can switch the "Temp 3" cable to "Temp 2" at the PCB board.

But doing that, would require me to make changes first to an Custom firmware.

And unfortunally i don't have any idea where i can download an custom firmware suitable for my Ultimaker 2. And the most important i don't know how to make those changes in the firmware either.

Is there any "how to guide" for making those changes in the custom firmware?

Any website/tutorial?

Edited by Guest

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First of all - "temp bed sensor" - doesn't that happen immediately on power up? How could you possibly heat the bed if you have this error - this is the most confusing part of your problem.

The sensor should measure about 108 ohms (anywhere from 100 to 115 ohms is close enough to avoid the temp bed sensor error). did you ever check that? If you get this error part way through a print then some wire is probably not a good connection - I would replace the wires. The most common failure is on the board itself - the solder connection between the screw terminal block and the board. Try pushing and pulling on every connection (wires, connector block, temp sensor itself, twist the board a bit) to see if you can get it to jump from 108 ohms to an open (millions of ohms).

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You can indeed switch to a different heater. You need only edit configuration.h I believe. It should be simple as it is heavily commented (that file is probably 90% comments). Possibly you have to instead edit pins.h or the advanced configuration but most likely just Configuration.h.

source files (I strongly recommend tinkergnome version):

tinkergnome (UM2 marlin):

https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

Ultimaker2 marlin source:

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin

Then you need to build Marlin. There are instructions that come with the erik zalm download in the "README.md" text file.

Basically you download and install arduino ide:

http://arduino.cc/en/main/software

Then copy the sanguino software as explained in README file. Open Marlin.ino file in Arduino IDE by double clicking it (not pde file as stated in README - I think that's old). Select board as "Mega 2560" as explained in README file. Go to "file" "preferences" and select "verbose output" so you can find your hex file. Then build it by clicking the check box in the upper left corner. At the bottom you will see it compiling Marlin. At the end of this it says where the hex file is. If you are currently connected to your UM through USB you can just click "file" "upload" and you are done! But you should locate that hex file and save it somewhere along with the Configuration.h file used to create it so you can recreate the same version with maybe one change. Also you can upload the hex file using Cura in expert menu.

The actual ultimaker firmware is built with make file and doing it that way generates a smaller more compact firmware but doing it through the IDE works fine. I've done it many times.

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First of all - "temp bed sensor" - doesn't that happen immediately on power up?  How could you possibly heat the bed if you have this error - this is the most confusing part of your problem.

The sensor should measure about 108 ohms (anywhere from 100 to 115 ohms is close enough to avoid the temp bed sensor error).  did you ever check that?  If you get this error part way through a print then some wire is probably not a good connection - I would replace the wires.  The most common failure is on the board itself - the solder connection between the screw terminal block and the board.  Try pushing and pulling on every connection (wires, connector block, temp sensor itself, twist the board a bit) to see if you can get it to jump from 108 ohms to an open (millions of ohms).

 

Indeed the error showes up on startup. And honestly i have no idea why the bed is heating up. For me it is an strange thing too.

Anyway, i checked the board it showed me 110 ohms at 20C room tempature.

I have even replaced the bed board and cables for sure. The error still showed up.

Edited by Guest

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You can indeed switch to a different heater.  You need only edit configuration.h I believe.  It should be simple as it is heavily commented (that file is probably 90% comments).  Possibly you have to instead edit pins.h or the advanced configuration but most likely just Configuration.h.

source files (I strongly recommend tinkergnome version):

tinkergnome (UM2 marlin):

https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

Ultimaker2 marlin source:

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin

Then you need to build Marlin.  There are instructions that come with the erik zalm download in the "README.md" text file.

Basically you download and install arduino ide:

http://arduino.cc/en/main/software

Then copy the sanguino software as explained in README file.  Open Marlin.ino file in Arduino IDE by double clicking it (not pde file as stated in README - I think that's old).  Select board as "Mega 2560" as explained in README file.  Go to "file" "preferences" and select "verbose output" so you can find your hex file.  Then build it by clicking the check box in the upper left corner.  At the bottom you will see it compiling Marlin.  At the end of this it says where the hex file is.  If you are currently connected to your UM through USB you can just click "file" "upload" and you are done!  But you should locate that hex file and save it somewhere along with the Configuration.h file used to create it so you can recreate the same version with maybe one change.  Also you can upload the hex file using Cura in expert menu.

The actual ultimaker firmware is built with make file and doing it that way generates a smaller more compact firmware but doing it through the IDE works fine.  I've done it many times.

 

I have installed the software, and downloaded Marlins firmware and opened up the configuration.h and pins.h files.

I could only figure out that some things in those files were related to the bed and sensors.

But still i couldn't figure out what settings I need to change and should be replaced with ?

There are just to many lines of codes..

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The error you are seeing implies that the printer can not see the temp sensor at all. If you measured the resistance undereneath the printer at the end of the cable, and if the wires seem okay, then I would replace the PCB.

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The error you are seeing implies that the printer can not see the temp sensor at all.  If you measured the resistance undereneath the printer at the end of the cable, and if the wires seem okay, then I would replace the PCB.

 

What you told is indeed correct. Except for the part that the PCB has to be replaced.

I have been told that I can use temp 2 instead of temp 3.

But in order to do that, i have to make some changes in the firmware first.

Isn't it worth to try that? before jumping to conclusion that it's broken and to buy a new pcb with an price tag of 200 dollars?

Edited by Guest

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Search motherboard 72? Or 78 I can't remember now. Just edit the pins.h and swap the pins of the heat sensors. I have many firmwares compiled for that but on umo+.

It's quite easy and fast to change it.

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the component you are looking for have this code RO FERRIET BLM21PG221SN1D 0805

and is leading to ATMEGA 16( code ATMEGA16U2-MU) . If the L1 is fried like i see in the picture i believe you need Atmega 16U also.

You can order this component from here:

http://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Murata-Electronics/BLM21PG221SN1D/?qs=N%2fLoXOA9PTJ4i6RHFrsqmw%3d%3d

But double check what is the cause for this!

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200 dollars? You should be able to get one for free - isn't it covered by warranty?

Yes you can change the firmware - the easiest might be to change it in pins.h - swap the pins for the 2 sensors there and rebuild. I've rebuilt the firmware many times not so hard. I posted instructions earlier in this thread.

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Search motherboard 72? Or 78 I can't remember now. Just edit the pins.h and swap the pins of the heat sensors. I have many firmwares compiled for that but on umo+.

It's quite easy and fast to change it.

 

Swap the pins to where? You mean after i make those changes in the firmware.

I have to switch the temp 3 cable to temp 2 right?

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200 dollars? You should be able to get one for free - isn't it covered by warranty?

Yes you can change the firmware - the easiest might be to change it in pins.h - swap the pins for the 2 sensors there and rebuild.  I've rebuilt the firmware many times not so hard.  I posted instructions earlier in this thread.

 

Ok this is what i did.

Opened up Ardiuno -> Marlin.

From there i went to PINS.H underneath board ==  72

And made those changes @neotko told me.

Compiled it, and uploaded it to my "Ultimaker 2 White" through a cable with no trouble.

Then i switched the Temp 3 cable to Temp 2.

That's what i should have done right?

I did that, but the error is still there.

Did i forgot something?

What's an hex file?

I read somewhere that after compiling the firmware, it should popup me the location of an hex file? But it didn't..

Edited by Guest

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Hex file its the firmware to upload it to the machine.

Temp 1 - sensor 1

Temp 2 - second extruder pt100 (free by default)

Temp 3 - bed pt100

The heat sensor error pops also if one of pt100 isn't connected. If you swapped the pins, tou swap the cables too. If it doesn't work, check your seller for a warranty new Pcb as gr5 said.

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In the arduino IDE you click the checkbox which says "verify" if you hover on it. It actually compiles. Lots of stuff appears at the bottom - there's probably an error in there I'm guessing. If you look the same path will zip by about 100 times throughout and it's always the same - it's a new folder and that's where the hex file will appear *only* if there are no compile errors.

Once you get the new hex file you can upload it into your printer using Cura - choose "install custom firmware...".

Before you can do any of that you have to follow the other directions including selecting board type "mega 2560" and installing some library. It's explained in the README file.

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