Welcome to ABS. It takes maybe 100 prints to get really really good at PLA. You probably forgot this - we tend to forget the bad and remember the good. Well it also takes quite a few prints to get good at ABS.
You mention several problems including: spaghetti, not sticking to glue, parts not sticking, horizontal cracks. It would help people posting answers to stick with just one or two problems per post. So don't be surprised if after my post you only get answers to one of your issues.
The sticking is the easiest to fix. make sure bed is at 100C. Minimum. It makes it easier to get there if you cover the front and/or top of the machine but not mandatory to get ABS to stick like hell. Probably you just need to squish the ABS into the glass harder. The leveling procedure only gets you close - then you want to ram it in a little harder.
I'm going to paste some information here about sticking - the issues are identical to PLA except ABS has MUCH more shrinkage force than PLA and a higher glass temp but otherwise same advice.
1) Make sure the glass is clean if you haven't cleaned it for a few weeks. You want a very thin coat of PVA glue which is found in hairspray, glue stick, wood glue. If you use glue stick or wood glue you need to dilute it with water - about 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part glue. So for example if you use glue stick, apply only to the outer edge of your model outline then add a tablespoon of water and spread with a tissue such that you thin it so much you can't see it anymore. wood glue is better. hairspray doesn't need to be diluted. When it dries it should be invisible. This glue works well for most plastics.
2) Heat the bed. This helps the plastic fill in completely (no air pockets) so you have better contact with the glass. For ABS 90C is enough.
3) heat the bed (didn't I already say that?). Keeping the bottom layers above the glass temp of the material makes it so the bottom layers can flex a bit (very very tiny amount) and relieve the tension/stress. For ABS you want 110C (100C is good enough).
4) rounded corners - having square corners puts all the lifting force on a tiny spot. Rounding the corner spreads the force out more. This is optional if you use brim.
5) Brim - this is the most important of all. Turn on the brim feature in cura and do 10 passes of brim. This is awesome. (I notice you did this already)
6) Squish - make sure the bottom layer is squishing onto the glass with no gaps in the brim. The first trace going down should be flat like a pancake, not rounded like string. don't run the leveling procedure if it is off, just turn the 3 screws the same amount while it is printing the skirt or brim. Counter clockwise from below gets the bed closer to the nozzle. Don't panic, take a breath, think about which way to move the glass, think about how the screw works, then twist. This may take 30 seconds but it's worth it to not rush it. You can always restart the print.
If you do all this you will then ask me "how the hell do I get my part off the glass?". Well first let it cool completely. Or even put it in the freezer. Then use a sharp putty knife under a corner and it should pop off.
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