PLA print royally stuck to print bed glass

[Speckles 1]

Hello all. After my first print not sticking too well to the bed and warping, I put some watered down prit stick on the glass bed. Now the print has stuck royally to the bed, I have tried prying it loose with a razor, and soaked it for a few minutes in warm soapy water and no luck. I can barely get a razor underneath it!

Anything else I can do? Trying to not damage the glass bed.

[gr5 2,172]

Put it in the freezer. REally. After 20 minutes take it out and immediately try to remove the part (before the part or glass warm up). It might just fall off (I'm always surprised when it does - I never learn).

Usually though I use a putty knife with one corner sharpened razor thin. Glass is tough - usually only diamond will scratch glass. It's the printed part you are more likely to damage.

[eldrick 65]

The freezer is good advice, but using a putty knife on a hard-stuck part will sometimes take a divot out of the glass, leaving it stuck to the print. You will find whole threads on the topic.

[geert_2 557]

For your next prints, I would suggest that you give the "salt method" a try. (=Wiping the glass plate with very salt water, prior to printing. No glue, no hairsprays.)

For PLA this gives a very strong bond when the glass is hot, but no bonding at all after cooling down to room temp: the models just pop off. No more need to take the glass out of the printer, no more recalibrating the build plate...

I use this since more than a year, and have had no problems since: no bonding problems, and no removing problems.

For the full description, see the PDF-manual at:

https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/

If you try it, could you let us know how well (or how bad) it works?

[TONYDG 0]

I will try it

Thank you

Antonio Domit

[cjryker06 0]

PLA shouldn't bond to the glass enough to take chunks out. Typically co-polyesters like PETG and nGen will.

[JGwinner 0]

I've had a similar problem. My first print was fine; my second print, I had to bend the parts with the putty knife to get them off!

 

I noticed the first time I used the machine settings, with a bed temp of 68; the next time I used Cura and it set the bed at 70 even (I got 68 or 72 or something on the printer, oddly. It's a CR-10.

 

First, I'm going to try a bed temp of 68, then try the salt water.

 

== John ==

[geert_2 557]

15 hours ago, JGwinner said:

I've had a similar problem. My first print was fine; my second print, I had to bend the parts with the putty knife to get them off!

 

I noticed the first time I used the machine settings, with a bed temp of 68; the next time I used Cura and it set the bed at 70 even (I got 68 or 72 or something on the printer, oddly. It's a CR-10.

 

First, I'm going to try a bed temp of 68, then try the salt water.

 

== John ==

Keep in mind that the "salt method" only works for PLA on a heated glass bed. It does not work at all on a cold bed; there is no bonding at all.

 

It does not seem to have much effect on PET and NGEN either (no positive, no negative), and does not work on ABS.

 

I have no idea about other build-plate materials, such as aluminium. Also, I don't know the CR-10.

 

So I would welcome feedback on your results. Be sure to stay around when trying these things, so you can abort the print if it would come off the bed.

 

[Framar 38]

That reminds me of my very prints on my S5. The first few prints were ok but the more prints the more it was sticking on the glass to a point where I ahd to hit the print with a small hammer to get it off the glass. Since then, I clean the glass with lens cleaner after every prints and it is just perfect now.

[Smithy 1,144]

1 hour ago, Framar said:

Since then, I clean the glass with lens cleaner after every prints and it is just perfect now.

 

Yes, it is important to clean the glass, because a dirty glass can also cause the opposite of bad adhesion and the print just sticks too well. I learned it myself because I am often too lazy 🙂 

[JGwinner 0]

Thanks @geert_2, I eventually got a bed plate from Gizmodorks and things are working much better. I can finally print PETG!

 

It helps with PLA too.

 

I do find I have to let the bed cool down, then prints remove easily. I just have to be patient. 

 

3D printing seems to build patience!

 

        == John ==