The support is probably printed with the zigzag pattern, which is designed to be like the lines pattern, but all lines are connected to other lines, making for better support while still being relatively easy to remove.
I've found that while the main part of zigzag or square support etc is easy to remove, there is some unremovable part still attached to the model. You get the best results using a support roof, but you need to tweak the z distance.
When a move is required from support to another piece of support, no retraction is performed which causes stringing. However these strings don't touch the model.
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gr5 2,094
I've never been 100% happy with cura support structures. It's such a waste that you bought the um3 yet you are doing single filament - too bad you didn't get the UM2.
Well I don't have any great answers. I'm reasonably happy with the cura 2.X pva support options but those don't apply here.
I would probably just put my own support in cad. You don't need any support for the square parts that have bridging. But for those L shaped holes you have to support the base of the L. Just not the top of the L. For cylindrical parts you really need support on both arcing walls. I'd make a very very thin wall that touches at the top in 5 or 6 spots. A thin wall on the inner and outer edge of those bridging arcs.
Just to reiterate. The printer bridges pretty well. So if you print like a doorframe - you dont' need support at the top of the door.
If you print with PVA it will make the pva stick out of the part - by default 3mm "horizontal expansion" which is perfect for these prints. The pva can have a smooth top surface for the PLA to lay down on top of and it will come out very nice.
Here is a great example of what I mean by arcing support walls - the red portions on the lower left. This is a solidworks rendering. In real life it's all printed as one STL file in one color and you easily break off those thin "red" walls.

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