Is about UM3. Thanks
There have been changes in the springs. The latest produced models have 3 equal springs. Earlier models have one spring that is significantly less stiff, and that is supposed to go on the backside of the printer.
This has to do with the auto leveling feature. Since the firmware that was released late december/early january, the probing locations have changed. There is no longer a need for a weaker spring on the backside, so all springs were made equal.
Tom, that's interesting, can you share the Ultimaker part number of the stiff spring? so people know what to order at the reseller if they want to replace it. I think replacing it is interesting, i always find the weak spring annoying when spreading out glue, or removing a print.
Is it the same (part number) as the Ultimaker2 springs?
I guess it's this one (UM2 part)?
https://www.makerpoint.nl/nl/ultimaker-spring-d2000-1311.html
Edited by Guest-
1
What other parts have been changed on the UM3 since launch? Apart of the slideblocks and this spring?
Edited by GuestI would have to change the spring ?
Bought my UM3 on 26 november 2016
Edited by GuestI would have to change the spring ?
Bought my UM3 on 26 november 2016
No, you don't have to. It will work fine with the current one.
Labern is right, you don't need to change your spring. The newer firmware works with old and new spring.
- 1 year later...
Hello everyone,
I unearth this topic because I am desperate to change the spring that has become too loose at the back of the board.
Indeed, my printer raises me an error of auto leveling with unrealistic values. I suspect the bed is not firm enough to withstand the pressure of the nozzle.
Can you help me find a reference for these springs? I can not find anything on the official website and on all the dealers.
Thanks in advance.
- 1 year later...
Hi!
I also found back spring on UM3 annoying (too soft). If I change it – and the firmware will be okay with it? I don't need to do anything else?
Edited by vladmazurtypo
The spring on the feeder? Oh - the spring on the rear of the build plate? I have one of the oldest UM3s and I also have that weak spring back there. That was on purpose. I think it helps with active leveling. The newer UM3s have a stronger spring but that weak spring was on purpose and I have been printing on my UM3 for... 4 years? I don't know - but a long time.
Yes I meant back spring on the bed.
Well my point is I think I did a good manual levelling, and I use 'auto' setting for auto-bed-leveling. So on big parts I can see that it's not flat. I see it compensating by moving a bed up and down and on the back side the nozzle is way to close to the plate and opposite on the front. I'm just curious maybe it's because of this weaker spring.
I'll remade the manual live;ing to check it and then if it's not good again I'll write here.
The newer firmware works with weak spring and with stiff spring. Replacing the spring is not necessary, but feel free to do so.
The behavior you describe is of course not how it should be. You may want to reach out to your reseller, they will be able to help you.
How is your bed positioned? I always make sure the bottom of the glass plate is slightly (0.5mm or so) higher than the top of the alu at the front.
The screw on the back must be adjusted so that the bed is parallel to the gantry (I do that by manually raising the bed, and then manually move the printhead from front to back and making sure the nozzle / bed distance is equal)
this procedure is seldomly necessary but the screws with the weaker springs may untighten themselves after some use
-
2
Recommended Posts
Labern 775
What printer are you referring to?
The springs in the UM2 and UM2+ family have all 3 springs the same but the UM3 has 2 stuff springs in the front and a light one in the back.
Link to post
Share on other sites