CC Print core Red 0.6mm

[gr5 2,172]

20 minutes ago, super123tom said:

However, I would love to have future versions of Cura support the cc core for UM 3 configuration.

 

The only way that will happen is if Ultimaker sells an official extruder upgrade for the UM3.  Maybe a UM3+ will come out some day and maybe there will be an upgrade kit.

[super123tom 0]

Cant wait that long. Hppe that happens some day, I assume it will. 

In the mean time, I plan to try this path. Can you send me the instructions on reprogramming the cc to core to look like an AA0.4

Thank you so much for your help. I will document the process for others. 

 

[gr5 2,172]

Here are the instructions.

 

How to reprogram your core:

 

http://gr5.org/cores/

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Tough I've not used the DDG, I like the QR feeders as they let you easily inspect the gears visibly, and are easy to clean.

 

On the cura topic, I  think it's much easier to setup a profile in cura for the CC0.6 than reprogram it to a 0.4 I've used the CC0.6 on my Ultimaker3 and just changed the line width,  I should find some time to set it up with a proper profile someday..

[Robengaard 0]

Hi ultiarjan

 

Can you explain me how to set up a profile for CC0.6 in cura?

 

Kind regards Robengaard

Edited July 10, 2019 by Robengaard

[ultiarjan 1,223]

5 hours ago, Robengaard said:

Hi ultiarjan

 

Can you explain me how to set up a profile for CC0.6 in cura?

 

Kind regards Robengaard

 

Ultimaker only provides profiles for officially supported combinations, which is pretty limited, but you can use the CC0.6 perfectly on the Ultimaker 3 , or with many non supported materials.  

The easiest is usually to select a 0.4 profile (with the AA0.4 selected as core) for the material you want to use, and change the line width to 0.6 (or just below 0.6 as Ultimaker would do it), depending on the material and speed you may also need to slightly change the printing temperature and do a few test prints, but usually the 0.4 profile is a pretty good starting point.

 

Be aware that if you want to use the CC0.6 in the Ultimaker 3 , that the feeder is not made for abrasive materials and may wear out. You can solve this f.e. by upgrading to bondtech feeders.

 

 

[scottmg 3]

I'm sure I'm not the first to do this, but I designed and created my own feeder for the UM3 that's a bolt-on replacement for the existing feeder.  So far it's worked great.  It uses Bondtech gears (the whole purpose was so I could print abrasive filament without worry). 

 

If anyone is interested, I can clean a few things up and post .stl files and the source designs (Sketchup 8 (not exactly modern, but free)). 

 

You'll have to buy some of your own hardware (gears, a few bolts, a couple bearings, push-to-connect fitting).  And obviously it would be an unsupported, DIY, at-your-own-risk kind of thing.  The nice thing is, if you don't like it, just bolt the old feeder back on. 

 

I suspect most with a UM3 will want a professional, supported solution, but figured I'd throw this out there.

 

[gr5 2,172]

Very nice.  How much did the parts cost?  You can get the bondtech DDG for $95 USD which includes the gears plus all the needed parts.  But still, very nice.  Please post on youmagine or thingiverse and let us know where you posted it and what the parts cost.

[scottmg 3]

4 hours ago, gr5 said:

Very nice.  How much did the parts cost?  You can get the bondtech DDG for $95 USD which includes the gears plus all the needed parts.  But still, very nice.  Please post on youmagine or thingiverse and let us know where you posted it and what the parts cost.

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4235488

 

The most expensive parts are the BondTech gears ($27 USD), bearings ($12), and push-to-fit connectors ($16 for a pack of 10).  I listed my source for the hardware, bulk (packs of 25-100 pieces) stainless hardware, and that's pretty expensive if you go that route.  If you can go to a local hardware store, you could probably finish it up for around $10, so you're looking at $65 USD.  So unless you're a hobbyist, the reality is the bondtech ones are probably better for a little bit more money. 

 

But if anyone is still interested, its out there.  Feel free to make suggestions.  This was built based on parts I had on hand, moreso than ideal parts or cheap parts.  There is definitely much room for improvement.  I wasn't even thinking about showing anyone else until I ran across this thread, and made the original post kind of a whim. 

 

The main things I like:

 

1) The oversized tension arm is way easier to push than the little sliders on the side of the original (and the bondtech looks to be similar)

 

2) You don't have to update firmware.  I'm pretty sure I saw that in the bondtech installation instructions, which is what initially put me off of it and starting me thinking about building my own. 

 

3) So far most profiles have been good.  It was difficult to match the feedrate exactly of the original (bondtech gears are a different diameter than the original knurled drive, I had to calculate a new gear ratio, and the ideal was between 39 and 40 teeth, went with 39).  Maybe some over extrusion on some, but not much.

 

4) It was a fun project!

 

Edited March 22, 2020 by scottmg
Added additional info on gear ratio

[scottmg 3]

Here's a test print with the custom feeder that finished a bit ago.  The photo isn't great, the Carbon Fiber PETG (3dxtech) is doing funny things with the light.  But I'm very pleased, it looks great.  Even the threads inside look good.  Maybe a bit over-extruded, but that's easily fixed. 

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Nice work @scottmg what material did you use? Nylon for the gear?

[scottmg 3]

4 hours ago, ultiarjan said:

Nice work @scottmg what material did you use? Nylon for the gear?

 

I experimented with lots of materials.  A good chunk was Onyx (beautiful stuff, not as stiff as I'd like) printed on another printer.  The tension arm and base were 3dxtech carbon fiber polycarbonate.   For the gear Polymaker CoPA (Nylon 6 + Nylon 6,6).  That's a story in an of itself.  Making a proper involute gear is a pain, https://geargenerator.com/ was very helpful.

 

I tried, repeatedly, to get a good one out of acetal.  I'm pretty sure that stuff can warp the fabric of spacetime.  I even have an old Makerbot converted with a heated chamber that will go up to about 75c, and still just couldn't get the results I wanted.  Maybe some day I'll figure it out. 

 

The Nylon is pretty slick, added in some PTFE SuperLube and it seems to be doing well.  I only have 10 hours or so of prints on the current setup, but I don't see any signs of wear on either gear yet.