3D prints very difficult to pull out

[Rabin_Dhamala 0]

Mostly I use PLA for printing my models and I almost never face the problem of adhesion to the build plate (which of course is a good thing). However, almost every single time when my models are finished printing they stick to the blue painters tape so well that when I pull out the finished models the blue painters tape tears out every single time and I need to change the tape almost after every single print. I usually heat the build plate to around 50-60 degree celsius and pull out the finished products since its really difficult to pull them out when they are cool.

 

Is there any way or any specific printing conditions that I need to tweak in so that I will not face this issue any further???

Would be very grateful for your kind suggestions. ☺️

[Smithy 1,135]

When you have a heated bed, you don't need blue painters tape. Use a glue stick or nothing on the bed and it should work. If you want for whatever reason the blue painters tape, then try to apply a thin layer of glue there.

[Rabin_Dhamala 0]

If I don't use blue painters tape, doesn't it leave scratches and make the bed surface rough and uneven in the near future after continuous uses??

[Smithy 1,135]

No, you don't need to worry about that. I apply some glue with the glue stick to the glass and then distribute that with a wet tissue to get a very thin layer of glue. After the print is finished and the glass is cooled down, the part comes easily off. You can try both variations, just a layer of glue or with the wet tissue. Both works.

 

If you print with other materials like PETG then you should use the layer of glue to protect your glass, but with PLA it is not a problem.

 

The glue stick works in two directions, it gives you a better adhesion and additionally if a material (PETG) sticks too well to the glass, the glue layer protects against chipping the glass.

[sibianul 0]

Why not try hair spray instead, I just started up and print PLA and  PETG with cold bed, without any problem regarding print adhesion to the glass surface! And also is very easy to get the part from the glass with a sharp knife.

 

Since I tried hairspray, I permanently have one near the printer, also a Glass Cleaner bottle and a roll of paper towels, all those 3 things permanently near the printer , like the filament rolls, those are mandatory for me 🙂 

Edited February 4, 2019 by sibianul

[Smithy 1,135]

If you have a working hair spray (not all are working) then it is ok for problematic materials, but for PLA it is not necessary and glue stick is much easier to apply. Because with hair spray you have to remove the glass from the printer. Never spray with hair spray when the glass is in the printer because you will get the spray also on the rods and the z screw which is bad.

[sibianul 0]

Easier than the hairspray 🙂 ? I'm just using the hairspray for about 2 - 3 seconds maximum and spray from back to the front, I have all my leadscrews greased. I also worried about hairspray sticking to leadscrews but if it's sprayed in the opposite direction, there can't be any problem. I mostly print PETG, but yesterday I switched to PLA to finished the opened rolls 🙂

 

[Smithy 1,135]

Maybe in an open printer, but not with an Ultimaker printer, there it is not possible to spray from the back. And even with greased rods, I would be careful with it. But without an enclosure, it is easier as you say to spray in the right direction.

[cloakfiend 992]

Just use @geert_2 salt method if youre using PLA. Its the only painless removal method I came across for lazy people who hate prepping the plate like I do. And you get the shiny bottom too if you go easy on the salt. If you add the salt when the bed is too hot, it crystalizes too fast and you may bet less shiny spots. But its still shiny.

 

It works very well. I used glue for over 5 years but now am converted completely to the salt method. Its the only way to go in my opinion. Sometimes ill have 2000-3000 small objects on the plate and need them all to stick and come off easily after whilst maintaining structure with zero damage. Salt can achieve this. I couldnt do that with any glue and not worry if one piece was gonna be stuck more than the other.

Edited February 4, 2019 by cloakfiend

[Rabin_Dhamala 0]

Thank you everyone guys!!! Will certainly give a try to your suggestions ☺️. 

[yellowshark 153]

Quote

Don't your printers have removable glass beds, how weird 🙂. Slide it out spray it on slide it in; easier than making toast and no rags or sponges etc.

 

[geert_2 556]

On 2/4/2019 at 7:59 PM, sibianul said:

Easier than the hairspray 🙂 ? I'm just using the hairspray for about 2 - 3 seconds maximum and spray from back to the front, I have all my leadscrews greased. I also worried about hairspray sticking to leadscrews but if it's sprayed in the opposite direction, there can't be any problem. I mostly print PETG, but yesterday I switched to PLA to finished the opened rolls 🙂

 

 

 

Maybe you should try spraying bright red fluorescent paint in the same way? You would be astonished for far it goes and how wide it spreads. After a few applications, your whole printer and half of your table will have a fine red cast to it.

 

Years ago I used a big cardboard box in which I sprayed silicone oils on moulds, and black conductive paints on electron microscopy samples. Even though there was a strong vacuum flow sucking out the spray from the back of the box, it still went everywhere in front and left and right of the cardboard box. I have seen the same in other spray cabines from collegues.

 

Similar, on old HP inkjet printers, after a year the whole table on which they were sitting, had a black cast around the printer. Just from the ink dust caused by the little sprays. It goes much further than you think.

 

So I would recommend spraying only in a box, with air extraction, and far away from the printer or other sensitive stuff.