Newbe, ultimaker 2 extended material not sticking to bed and being dragged around

[g7kbr67 1]

Hi all

 

I have a Ultimaker 2 extended and I an very new to the 3D printer journey.

 

I have installed PLA material and recalibrated the bed 1mm (paper also used for getting the gap correct) on both 3 corners.  in the setup I have confirmed material comes out of the head.  But when i try and print the ultimaker robot all the pla doesn't stick to the bed.  The Bed is clean and I have just put a thin layer of britt stick on it.

 

The fan on the back is running but i haven't seen the two side ones come on yet.

 

See attached photos.  

[Enigma_M4 119]

Hi Paul,

 

the two big problems we have to cope with in 3D printing: 1. getting the print sticking to the build plate, 2. removing a print from the build plate ☺️.

 

I suppose you have levelled your build plate lot to far from the print head. The final distance should be about 0.1mm (the thickness of a sheet of paper). The proper calibration procedure for the UM2 can be found here:

 

https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011833680-Calibration-for-the-Ultimaker-2

 

The look of your first layer is a good indicator for good -or bad- levelling. Using a brim could also help (checking good first layer as well as improving build plate adhesion IF levelling is ok).

 

Regards

[g7kbr67 1]

Hi

 

Thanks for this information,  I am assuming I need to setup temperatures on head and build plate?

 

Also on setup you can enable the two side fans as a percentage.  I wonder what I should set this up as?  
 

Regards

 

 

Paul

[Enigma_M4 119]

Hi,

I don't know how the print settings (build plate temp, nozzle temp etc.) are controlled at the UM2, if via Cura or via the printer itself. Perhaps @gr5, @Dim3nsioneer, @fbrc8-erin or someone else knowing the UM2 can help.

 

For PLA, build plate temp of 60°C is optimal, but even an unheated print bed can be used for this material.

The two side fans are for cooling the print, but for the first layers they should not be needed (the front fan is for cooling the hotend and should work continuously).

 

Regards

[Torgeir 242]

Hi,

 

Well, I may jump in as I'm an owner of an UM2E (not a plus model), however modified to act as a plus model.  🙂

 

Heat bed 60 deg. C and nozzle at 200 for PLA, absolute max for PLA is approx 240 deg. C. But never go that high with PLA!

Different brand of PLA temp setting might differs slightly, but this values is good estimates.

For printing in the lo temperature end, you can print as lo as 180 deg. C., But just practice at 200 will be a good start.

Make sure you bed is clean, wash with mild soap, and when you feel with your fingers during last rinsing that your fingers kind of stick to the glass, then it is good. Water temp (35-40) deg. C.

Sometimes we found that the glass plate is not really flat at both sides, so I've marked mine up in the left forward corner using a permanent (black) withe boarder pen.

When adjusting the height, I am using kind of thin paper, just as the recipt from an atm.

It is important that the first layer is kind of squeezed to make it "glued" to the heat bed.

To remove the printed object we need to use a tiny sharp blade, I've found that the painters paint remover to be used when removing dried paint is the best tool for this. But, before trying to remove the printed object, let it cool down -then it will be easy to remove.  When the printed objects underside (bed side) can be used as a mirror, your first layer is really good.

 

Anyway, happy 3D printing and good luck.

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir

 

[fbrc8-erin 272]

Looking at the photo...that's a lot of glue and it doesn't look very even. My first recommendation (aside from re-leveling the bed as has been mentioned) would be to take a wet paper towel to your bed. You do want to use glue--but only use a thin layer so there's no clumps. I like to put a few swipes with the glue stick and then use a wet paper towel to thin it out to a thin almost invisible layer. If they're clumps, your filament is going to catch on it.

[g7kbr67 1]

Thanks all for your help, I am going to try and do a test print on Thursday and see how it all goes.  Will feedback my results then, finger grossed all works. 

 

Reference Torgeir's update from standard to plus,  I wonder what you invested your money in regard upgrade parts?  For the moment I will see how my tests go and if goes well I might ask what the cheaper update parts are.  I am not keen on spending £500 on the official upgrade kit to a plus.

 

Regards

 

Paul

[g7kbr67 1]

Hi Torgeir

 

 

Well I have make the heat plat set as 60 oC and the print head is set at 200o C.  But it looks like I have a flow issue,  i removed material and then re-entered it and did the advance on material movement out of the print head but nothing coming out.  Can't see any PLA coming out the sides,  I can re-tract the material moving the control wheel the other way, then go forward.

 

No sure what i should try next.  could it be the temperature heater not actually getting up to 200 oC?

 

As I say I am a newbie.

 

Regards

 

Paul  

 

 

 

On 5/23/2020 at 2:59 PM, Torgeir said:

Hi,

 

Well, I may jump in as I'm an owner of an UM2E (not a plus model), however modified to act as a plus model.  🙂

 

Heat bed 60 deg. C and nozzle at 200 for PLA, absolute max for PLA is approx 240 deg. C. But never go that high with PLA!

Different brand of PLA temp setting might differs slightly, but this values is good estimates.

For printing in the lo temperature end, you can print as lo as 180 deg. C., But just practice at 200 will be a good start.

Make sure you bed is clean, wash with mild soap, and when you feel with your fingers during last rinsing that your fingers kind of stick to the glass, then it is good. Water temp (35-40) deg. C.

Sometimes we found that the glass plate is not really flat at both sides, so I've marked mine up in the left forward corner using a permanent (black) withe boarder pen.

When adjusting the height, I am using kind of thin paper, just as the recipt from an atm.

It is important that the first layer is kind of squeezed to make it "glued" to the heat bed.

To remove the printed object we need to use a tiny sharp blade, I've found that the painters paint remover to be used when removing dried paint is the best tool for this. But, before trying to remove the printed object, let it cool down -then it will be easy to remove.  When the printed objects underside (bed side) can be used as a mirror, your first layer is really good.

 

Anyway, happy 3D printing and good luck.

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir

 

 

[Torgeir 242]

Sorry folks, I've made a mistake as this one should be erased.

I've put it into here:

 

 

 

 

Edited May 30, 2020 by Torgeir
Inserted int wrong topic, now moved. Thanks

[Torgeir 242]

Hi Paul,

 

Just saw this..

 

Can you see if the knurled wheel is spinning on the back, grinding the filament?

Try to help feeding by pushing the filament into the feeder, if this help it might be the coupler.

 

Let's see this.

 

Torgeir

 

[Torgeir 242]

Check the indicator on the feeder side, about half scale setting should be ok..

 

Torgeir

[Torgeir 242]

Hi Paul,

 

Have you ever tried to clean the nozzle?

There is a method named atomic pull, but read it carefully.

 

Look at this site:

 

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=UM+nozzle+cleaning+atomic+metod#kpvalbx=_e2vSXpmBKMbc6ASDu4uQBQ24

 

Torgeir

Edited May 30, 2020 by Torgeir
Text error

[Torgeir 242]

Hi Paul,

 

Forgot to say, If you need to adjust the feeder tension pressure, you need to use a hex key, turning counter clock wise increase the pressure.

 

Good luck

 

Torgeir

[Torgeir 242]

Hi Paul,

 

When I'm looking at your first picture, It looks like the temperature is a little lo.

However, if this is PLA, it should normally flow easily and roll upon the clip nicely.

 

As you have had some feed of plastic (PLA) and now there is none, I'll believe this due to some sort of obstruction in the extruder. So no temp problem, people have been trying to rice temperature in order to get flow, but instead burnt all filament stuck inside the heat block.

 

You may also check if the "hot end" cooling fan (the aft one) is working, if not the filament will melt "high" up in the extruder and glue it stuck -just another posibillity.

 

When we finish a print, we need to remove the filament and store it in a sealed bag in order to avoid humidity contamination.

 

Good Luck

 

Just ask in here, here is plenty of skilled people here to help you!

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir