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yzorg

question about LCD controller substitute

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Hi guys

I recently stumbled over those LCDs that are quite a bit cheaper and would also result in much less shippment costs to me than the one from the Ultimaker-shop.

http://fabber-parts.de/shop/index.php?a=130

pic below..

The only optical difference i notice is the stop button.

Sadly i couldnt find the pinout plan of the connectors yet...

Could it be possible to use those "cheap" LCD-controller on the Ultimaker 1.5.4 board? i know its intended for Ramps 1.4... but isnt ramps quite similar to the Ultiboard anyway?

greetings

Ramps-Smart-LCD-Controller.jpg

 

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Hi,

If you open the Configuration.h of Marlin in Arduino, you will find a lot of different LCD panels, one of them the Reprapdiscount panel. I can try to test a LCD panel from Gadget3d (very similar to the one you have found) on my Ultimaker, when my print is finnished. :smile:

Johan

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Hi,

Just tried to Connect the LCD from Gadget3d, and turned on the printer without recompiling Marlin. It lights up, and is showing what it is supposed to show! I can scroll thru the menues and the clickencoder does it's job.

This panel also work With the RAMPS 1.4 on my RepRap.

This is of course no guaranty tha the RepRapdiscount panel will work, but I am quite sure it will.

Johan

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Oh... read the first post and thought "a emergency stop would be a good idea" but as it shorts everything in the actual configuration... bad...

@ Daid, do you think it might be a good idea implement such an emergency stop feature?

In case a print fails, hit the button and the filament retracts, the print head goes up by a few mm and homes xy, and the cooldown of nozzle and (if appllied) heated bed is initiated...

What do you think?

 

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@ Daid, do you think it might be a good idea implement such an emergency stop feature?

In case a print fails, hit the button and the filament retracts, the print head goes up by a few mm and homes xy, and the cooldown of nozzle and (if appllied) heated bed is initiated...

What do you think?

 

If shit hits the fan, pull the power plug, better then some software based solution that might ruin more then you want.

If you abort a print on the UM2, it homes and cools down. The UM-Original firmware is a bit less smart in that aspect right now.

 

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thx for the hints guys.

i got one now and try to make it work on my spare Ultimkaker board.

on first test it stays dark and beeps occasionally...

swapping the cables makes it screambeep and the back light flashes.

so i think i have to go into the config.h...

i will need an arduino specialist to make this work.. i cant do much in arduino.

 

The RepRapDiscount will work, but you should rip off the reset button, as pressing it would short out the power (as the UM electronics has a power line instead of a reset line on that connection)

 

Does this removal of the button change anything directly or can i leave it there and just make it unpressable?

do i have to solder some bridges after removing the buttion?

 

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I got it to work. just cut the tab off of the one end of the plug. so you can plug it in 180 off. you want the red strip of the wires by the switch side.

 

Can you maybe send me a picture of your modification?

i cant understand by text what exactly you did.

for example what 180off means or the red strip..

thx in advance

 

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I think the gray ribbon cable has a red stripe down one side of the cable. This red stripe normally indicates pin 1.

180 is talking about degrees. If you rotate something 180 degrees it is now rotated opposite.

So you want to plug it in so that the red stripe is closer to the switch. Whatever that means.

 

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hello, used the same lcd on my ultimaker 1 but it just keeps beeping and the light of the lcd just flashes, did i forget something, is there another pinout for that displaymodule (with sd) i use the board in version 1.5.6 i think, and original firmware that comes with cura lastest version. the display works fine with the ramps 1.4 electronics and teacup firmware.

so i understand this seems to be the same problem as described above, bit there are 2 cabels that connect to the backpane of the lcd, wich one should be switched by 180? the one cloaser to the encoder?

br

 

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