No.. the glass is hot and i assure you that does not pop anything at the end of the printing..
No.. the glass is hot and i assure you that does not pop anything at the end of the printing..
For PLA I usually don't use glue if I put the bed up to 70°C
If for some reason, like you have low overhangs or a very small footprint, you need a lower temperature you can
use some glue stick.
But if you have a larger footprint, try it without the glue stick at ~70°C
That is a GOOD "problem" to have! Like JonnyBischof said, the print will be easier to remove once the bed has cooled down, trying to remove it while it's hot will most likely damage your print as it will be quite soft in the lower layers (if you manage to remove it at all).
Allow the bed to cool down, if the print still doesn't want to come off then use a thin blade to gently pry up one corner, once you get a corner up the rest usually just pops off with some gentle prying.
Some parts such as the UM robot don't need to stick much so I use glue *or* heat but not both. But some parts (large parts or parts with very little area touching the build plate) need as much stick as possible so I use both.
The glue dissolves in water so you can take the glass off the printer (after it cools) and put it in the sink if you want. Let it soak for 3 minutes. Or you can just get slowly running water on the surface only so most of your part stays dry.
Usually I just use a putty knife. Sometimes I need a razor blade knife to get a corner started. Other people have *sharpened* their putty knives.
I did a few experiments with how sticky things were. Here are the results:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3404-printing-on-glass/
If you think gluestick + 70C is too much, simply print without gluestick. 40C is plenty hot enough for reasonable stick. Gluestick is needed for very strong stick.
On machine itself, after clicking "print" then quickly go to "tune" menu and change the temp to whatever you want and then exit the tune menu.
Ok!
I had not been able to translate "tune".
I look at it. Thank you very much
Ok so the glue + hot bed is for super strong stick.
Today i made without gluestick and the model was hard to remove too...
For small things with the current settings for pla is simple to remove...but for something that has 10x10 cm of base the removing is really hard even without glue.
Do you have a putty knife? Like this:
Or maybe there is still glue on there? Clean it all off with glass cleaner or water and cloth.
yes but i fear to damage the glass... right now i'm using a cutter
like this one
tomorrow i will try to clean it better.. But first i need to uncork the nozzle.. :shock:
I use a spatula as shown GR5. And I took a wide spatula. In this way I am sure to be flat and not to damage the glass.
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jonnybischof 60
Haven't tried it yet (my UM1 heated bed upgrade is just cooling down from the first time heatup right now), but if you print with the heated bed turned on, the parts should "pop" off the bed as soon as it's cooled down after printing.
Did you print on cold glass?
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