QUESTION Service ultimaker 2

[robson 4]

So my 6 year old ultimaker 2 has always been printing semi bad. Today I desided to pull it apart and rebuild it with some spare parts I ordered years ago. 

I´m installing new belts, pulleys, bondtech QR extruder, renewing parts in printhead, and I´m ordering new linear bearings for Z axis rods. along with z nut[s].. Building a anti backlash nut as someone did over at endless-sphere using 2 nuts with a spring. 

 

One thing that I´ve had problem with since day one is that the print bed is vibrating to the point it´s hard to print support (or just print above 40mm/s ) if I don´t go superslow. I´ve seen some people re-inforcing the bed with steel or alu U-profiles. 
 

My question for this topic is basically tips for upgrades or parts since I`m already have it apart and don´t wich to do it again anytime soon.

 

Regular problems with my printer :

 

- Underextruding (Bondtech should fix this)

- Missing layers (New linear bearings and z nut should fix this)

- Vibrating print bed (Has nothing to do with how tight or loose the 3 springs are) Stabilizing it somehow would be the solution here. New linear bearings and anti backlash nut will probably help a bit, but I rather fix this then rolling the dice

 

 

Any tips are welcome.

 

Rob

 

[nallath 1,120]

Since you have an ulitmaker 2, you also have the "old" style hotend and feeder. Those have been fixed with the UM2+. You can just get a upgrade kit for that.

 

This will fix the underextruding and missing layers. I really don't see why / how a linear bearing or Z nut would fix the missing layers. They are more often caused by under extrusion.

 

As for the bed vibrating; Do you have an image of that? I've never had any issues with that.

[robson 4]

Hi Nallath!
 

I have a 3dsolex block for the nozzle. Kinda like an olsson block. Same principle. 

Bad linear bearings on Z axis makes it tougher to move up and down. it can get somewhat stuck at different places when moving bed up and down ny hand. Hence missing layer.

 

I would need a video to show the vibration. Sorry to say I don´t have one. Here´s a vide on someone else (different brand printer) bud the issue is similar to this. not as much as in the vid but still.. 

I´m not the only one with this problem. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2007717

 

 

[Torgeir 242]

Hi @robson,

 

I'd just thought about the same as @nallath, -but he was to fast..  🙂

 

However, I would also mention those two shaft 6 mm for the head included with the bearing.

 

So, I'll say go for it, -as it's the best refreshment you can do for your UM2 (+) perhaps..

 

Good luck

Torgeir

[robson 4]

6 minutes ago, Torgeir said:

Hi @robson,

 

I'd just thought about the same as @nallath, -but he was to fast..  🙂

 

However, I would also mention those two shaft 6 mm for the head included with the bearing.

 

So, I'll say go for it, -as it's the best refreshment you can do for your UM2 (+) perhaps..

 

Good luck

Torgeir

Thanks for the tip, but since I have a new feeder/extruder, hosuing for printhead,40w heater and sensor, + 3d solex block I basically have all what they are offering.. except for the new 6mm linear bearing and rods. I checked my rods and they are straight, linear bearing are sliding well on the rods aswell so I don´t need the printhead upgrade kit.

 

Cheers

[gr5 2,172]

You can get any part you want.  If it's not listed on a website just contact them - all parts can be ordered - there's just too many to list on most websites.

 

I think you've done a great job of replacing the key parts.  Most notably the belts and the Z hardware.  Which bondtech did you get?  The QR - I'm not a huge fan as it's a pain to open and close all the time.  It prints great.  But it's less convenient.  The DDR is much better but you need to buy Ultimaker 2+ feeder first.  I'd much rather have the UM2+ feeder than a bondtech personally.

 

A nice thing about having the bondtech however is that it can do carbon fill without ruining the feeder.  And you can get a ruby nozzle from 3dsolex or Olsson ruby.

[robson 4]

Hi gr5!

I´ll sure be getting a Um2+ feeder if I ever in the market buying another one. Yes I have the QR version. I don´t really understand what you mean with the pain to open and close? The quick release system perhaps? 

 

3dsolex was nice to send me a ruby nozzle as a gift a few years back, I havn´'t tried it yet but sure will when my printer is back up and running. 

 

I´ll be doing some research if it´s worth stabilizing the bed somehow. What do you personally think about it?

 

cheers!

[gr5 2,172]

My prints are good enough that I never thought I needed to stiffen my print bed.  I have 5 active UM printers although I use my um2go printers the most (3 of them) and they definitely have stiffer beds.

 

The QR feeder has a screw and you have to unscrew it for a LONG time to get it open to slide new filament in and out.  There is an option on the printer to "change filament" but I haven't used that in years.  I don't have bondtech on my 5 most-used printers.  It's on my printer that is doing fast printing (300mm/sec) experiments.  That printer has my custom firmware on a BBB.  Anyway, I like the DDG bondtech feeders better.  I've sold those to customers so I'm pretty familiar but never installed it on one of my own printers as I can just do CF filaments on my S5.

[gr5 2,172]

I run thegr5store.com in USA so I may have been the one to ship you that ruby nozzle - I don't remember and too lazy to go looking.  But I've probably shipped you things in the past.

[robson 4]

I see the benefits with not using the "change filament" option. You always get a clean nozzle when you change the filament. I'll give it a try next time I change the material..

 

Well I'm from Finland so I doubt you have shipped me anything in the past 😅 

 

Perhaps my bed will be more stable after the linear bearing swap. Time will tell.

 

Thanks for your opinions!

[robson 4]

@gr5

Hi mate! Do you know if this is the bearing they use inside the LMK12LUU?

https://uk.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/221000091678/?HissuCode=LM12LUU&PNSearch=LM12LUU&KWSearch=lm12luu&searchFlow=results2type

 

The LMK12LUU from misumi cost me about 220€ and with these would be around 50€ for 2 bearings. I could cnc the housing or reuse the old one.

 

Cheers!

[robson 4]

Nvm I see how it´s build now when I removed the part. 

[robson 4]

@nallath @gr5

Assembly guide um2 v1.1 step 20 when assemblying y-axis with pulleys. It says put on a 10mm spacer to the front side, but shouldn't it be a 5mm?

Step 26 says slide the last 5mm spacer on the axle.. but nowhere is the first 5mm spacer mentioned?

Edited March 27, 2021 by robson

[nallath 1,120]

On 3/27/2021 at 7:25 PM, robson said:

@nallath @gr5

Assembly guide um2 v1.1 step 20 when assemblying y-axis with pulleys. It says put on a 10mm spacer to the front side, but shouldn't it be a 5mm?

Step 26 says slide the last 5mm spacer on the axle.. but nowhere is the first 5mm spacer mentioned?

I really don't remember. It's been years since I've last assembled a UM2.

[gr5 2,172]

I don't know robson - just put spacers of the right size so that the pulleys line up with the rod above/below.

 

If you really really need to know you could email support _at_ fbrc8.com as they build UM2 printers still but please don't trouble them if you can figure this out yourself.

[robson 4]

Thanks guys! I figured it out when I assembled my um. Both 5mm spacers goes to the front of the 8mm Y-axis for anyone wondering.

The new Z stage bearings was a great "upgrade". I bought a new z nut aswell and made a anti-backlash nut with a spring as someone posted on a other forum. The bed vibrations are gone now! 

 

I still have some problems going on that I have not figured out yet. My bowden tube is leaning to the right and I'm experience some under extruding still. Even with all new print head parts. Perhaps it's due to the bowden tilting to the side..

I have ordered a new tube so hopefully that will fix it.

[robson 4]

I hate to start a new thread and the old one´'s about this subject is close to 10y old so I´m going to ask here. And again I am tagging you @gr5 .. Sorry!

So I´m calibrating my extruder, but I cannot get it to extrude when I write Gcode and put it on the sd card..

code : G91 G1 E100 F300

Wrote it in notepad ++ with G-code marlin language and moved the file to the sd card. All it did was homed axis and then said finished.

same thing when opening the gcode with cura and export to sd card. What am I doing wrong?

Machine settings in cura is "g-code flavor" ultimaker 2+

Edited April 7, 2021 by robson