Not yet mentioned here, maybe too obvious: did you let the buildplate cool down fully? It is quite usual to have PLA just pop loose on its own during cool down. I'm also puzzled by the fact that you part breaks on the first layers, that is quite unusal for PLA, where layer adhesion is normally excellent. Could it be the quality of your PLA?Edited by tomnagel
Isopropanol as a creeping agent 🙂 But beware: chipping can still happen.
i have exactly the same issue. At this moment i see 2 possibilities:
1: a problem in the pre-treatment, i always use the same 3dlac in the same amount, but i sometimes minimise the time between cleaning the plate with water, and applying the 3Dlac. Now i wait some time so the plate is really dry.
2: the glass plate just ages, and the surface becomes rough.
Time will tell...
And i forgot: i use z offset plugin very often to fine-tune adhesion. Our S5 "squishes" a little too much.
I usually put prints that don't want to come off without force together with the glass plate they are stock onto into the freezer. That works pretty well as long as no combination with water soluble support material and strong adhesion agent is involved.
You have lots of choices.
1) Glue. Well the thinner the glue, the stronger it sticks. So try adding more glue. Use glue stick instead of the really good glues. Having a thick layer of glue allows more space to release the part from the bed.
2) Bed temp - don't mess with this setting! If you lower the bed temp at all you are likely to have warping issues.
3) Squish - the strongest thing affecting adhesion is "squish". But on the S5 you aren't allowed to control the auto leveling. So there is a hack - you can set the initial layer flow to something much less than 100%. Say 70%. You would have to experiment though with several prints.
4) Brim. Switch adhesion from brim to skirt instead.
5) option five: Enjoy the stick - don't do 1,2,3,4 and instead buy a tool. I use a putty knife. A small one. And I sharpened one corner with a file or you could use some kind of grinder to sharpen part or all of the putty knife. I remove parts from the bottom using the putty knife. From the bottom so you don't damage the part. I often place it carefully then wack it hard with the palm of my other hand.
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After searching for videos on this issue, I found one where this guy recommended using a heavy, broad chisel. Having worked to refine the method, it is the thickness of the chisel and the angle of the bevel is the key. Rather than trying to slip a thin sharp piece of steel under the object, with the chisel raised at a high angle (bevel angle _should be between 25 & 40 degrees), so that the bevel is flat on the bed and the "bottom" of the chisel blade is facing the part, you work it under the lip and then pry up the edge using the back of the bevel (lowering the handle of the chisel). This leverage will allow you to create a gap where you can then insert your blunt putty knife far enough under the object to pry it without breaking it. I do not recommend the slam-bam method, as I have heard that you can actually shear off small fragments of the glass bed that stay in the print.
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