30 minutes ago, beadster said:Just had a nice chat with the service dept at 3DGBIRE
Yay! I didn't know it was 3DGBIRE and I didn't know you were close by. I know a guy who works there. Great guy. 225 pounds is a steal as it will probably take them a few hours.
Hello,
For me the issue is solved. Seem to work. I clean again all the fans, plate etc.
Thank you
Anything over 8 is a problem. calibrating the lift switch is a complete waste of time as long as noise is at 30-60.
Whether the cores are even installed or not should have nothing to do with the noise.
You need to fix the noise level first.
Do you have sources of EM noise nearby? Sources may include:
computers
motors
fans
air conditioners
speakers
things with computers in them like toasters, microwaves, cell phones, laptops, unfortunately everything these days has a computer in it.
wifi access points
wires that lead to any of those things - even a 30 foot wire that leads to a noise source - the wire can act as an antenna if it passes near the printer
Move all those things 3 meters from your printer and see if that affects the noise. If not, move the things where they were as they weren't the problem.
30-60 is crazy high. I didn't know it could go that high!
A cautionary tale and an embarrassing error.
I am posting the answerto help others even though the mechs in our workshop are having a real fun time with the solution to this issue.
I mixed up the fan and capacitive sensor plugs, but the diag on the cap sensor still gave realistic readings through the coil of the fan 😞 which masked the error.
I won't excuse myself with justification but we all can mess up but...
In the rush to fit the new fan I forgot to take a picture of the connections in the rear, the capacitive sensor plug didn't want to go back into the housing I knew it came from easily and I didn't want to push it, the fan connector easily fitted and the cap sensor plug easily went in the other, I didn't notice they are all JST connectors and could be fitted wrong.
3DGBIRE did also mention the routing of the fan cable can affect the sensor performance.
The moral of this fix is
it was always the front fan on this machine. the original slowly died and I cleaned it and got another month of work but the issue was slowly returning, the new fan fitted would have fixed it.
3DGBIRE did a service and a great quick turn around, I can't fault them on their service and a decent price.
I will now go and avoid all my co-workers and hang my head in shame.
bd
2
at least you found your issue !
yes indeed,
and thank for all the help on the forum
10 hours ago, gr5 said:30-60 is crazy high. I didn't know it could go that high!
lol anything over a 9 is considered off the chart. so double digits is things are NOT okay.
Hello!
This is the answer from Ultimaker
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 Thu, Apr 25, 4:07 PM (4 days ago)
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| 232194 | Print Head PCB UMS3/S5 Service Assembly |
I've attached a manual that will help you guide with replacing the part. 🙂
You can purchase this part from your local Ultimaker reseller to be found below:
- https://ultimaker.com/resellers/romania/
If you don't feel comfortable replacing it, no worries, we have trained resellers that can help you out.
Could you let me know how everything went from here?
I think is not correct to change PCB on 1 year old printer.....
Hello all!
I ordered this immediately on in April:
| Print Head PCB UMS3/S5 Service Assembly |
Still did not receive from Ultimakrer, and they are unserious on this issue. I have production stop since then.
Ultimaker dose not wont to answer...
I think is the end for me with Ultimaker.
5 hours ago, madmax21 said:Hello all!
I ordered this immediately on in April:
Print Head PCB UMS3/S5 Service Assembly
Still did not receive from Ultimakrer, and they are unserious on this issue. I have production stop since then.
Ultimaker dose not wont to answer...
I think is the end for me with Ultimaker.
Can you please contact UltiMaker directly and provide them with information of whom you have ordered from and that order information?
Contact here: https://support.ultimaker.com/s/contactsupport
@madmax21- "production stop"? Why did you wait 3 weeks then to post here again?
Did you know you can do manual leveling? It depends on how much time you want to spend on fixing this. Manual leveling can get you running immediately but I don't recommend it if you can wait for a proper fix. Also manual leveling is not great if you are printing large parts and your glass bed has some warp to it because the printer doesn't take into account the curves of the glass when in manual leveling mode.
I can tell you that with a noise level so high, that's a good thing because there is no need to mess around with anything else until you get that noise level down below 8. No need to play with print cores or switch calibration
On 4/29/2024 at 2:39 AM, madmax21 said:
I think is not correct to change PCB on 1 year old printer.....
Is that what you said or is that what Ultimaker support said?
If you have a 1 day old car, and you get a flat tire, does that mean you shouldn't change the tire? This statement above is confusing. Is that what Ultimaker told you?
If your printer is indeed less than 1 year old then you probably have a warranty and if you need a new PCB then it is probably free.
Also I had some suggestions about EM interference. Did you read my post from about 3 weeks ago?
Because the noise level is so high and because the test only takes a few seconds to check the sensor, I would experiment with moving things away from the printer (or move the printer to a new location) and rerun that sensor test. It's so easy to do. See if the number goes up or down when you move the printer from all EM sources.
Hello gr5,
I waited because I hoped that i will receive PCB. And yes "production stop" from that time.
The story is as follows:
I did not know about manual leveling. How dose it work? It will exclude the active leveling step at the start of the print job?
Ultimaker support send me this information. Also I think that is strange to get this type of issues since I know what the process of PCB manufacturing is. The printer is not less then 1 year. In February this year was 1 year old.
I did several times what you write 3 weeks ago... Why do you think I don't try before I jump into buying spare parts?
Update:
We receive feedback from Ultimaker, and tomorrow they will ship the PCB. Now the only question is if not the PCB is the issue what's next?
Edited by madmax21
How to skip active leveling on an S5:
There is a minor bug - I forget what it is but I think you have to level twice maybe? Or maybe you have to manually level one more time after you disable active leveling. Anyway the "bug" is obvious - you are just forced to do something annoying.
Anyway, I turned off active leveling on my S5 for a month and did probably 100 prints in that time. It was fine but it was annoying - I forget why exactly but somehow related to me changing the cores often. I think I had to relevel each time I changed the core? I think that was why I switched back to active leveling.
I don't have the material station and I don't have the air manager. This tweak might not be compatible with those. But I don't know for sure. It probably doesn't matter if you have those or not.
Hello,
After few weeks, today I recive the new pcb....
ER29 error.
This is enough for me...
logs-ultimakersystem-16b9421e92ab4106b3a2579d0e9d431d-8.3.1-20240426191920.zip logs-ultimakersystem-16b9421e92ab4106b3a2579d0e9d431d-8.3.1-20240529204053.zip
Hi @madmax21,
As you've never reported this error before: Here's the description of it.
ER29 - Print core min temp
Feb 14, 2023•Knowledge
This error occurs when one of the print cores is reading a temperature that is too low. The display will show with which print core a problem has been detected.
First, check if the error is caused by environmental conditions. Always use the printer in an environment within the recommended ambient operating temperatures (15 - 32 °C). Make sure the room is at least 15 °C (59 °F) and the printer is unaffected by cold drafts before powering on the printer.
If the error is not caused by a too-cold environment, there could be a connection or communication problem with the print core. If the communication is interrupted, the printer can show a 'min temp' (ER29) or a 'max temp' (ER28) error. As the max temp error is more likely to appear, please follow the instructions on the page below:
This above is found here:
https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667338550675
-----------------------------------------------------------
I'll suggest there might be just a loose connection for the temp sensor connector to the new PCB.
Here are a link to fbcr8-Erin showing the installation of this PCB into the head:
https://support.fbrc8.com/hc/en-us/articles/25226377434011-Printhead
So, good luck
Torgeir
Hello,
Thanks for the guidance.
I already follow this instructions and make a ticket on support.
I will dismount, and mount again, just to be sure, but I am pretty sure that the issue is something else since I did not have problem before with print cores. Also the print cores are new. So it should work.
Also the link to ER28 - Print core max temp is not working. When I press the link, it refreshes the same page
Hi @madmax21
Strange this, as only connectors involved here are the "main" connector (P3) to the head and the two (four contact) finger connectors behind the cores to connect to the PCB's gold plated contact points (four for each core).
Two of those contacts are for the temp sensing and the other two for the heater.
As the temperature are in lo state the input might be shorted for the actual core, either by an offset finger (shorting the two contact point for temp sensing) or by a faulty PCB.
Torgeir
Hello,
I have update form Ultimaker Support team.
Seems that the PCB that they send to replace the bad one is still NOK.
The old one couses noice at active leveling. The new one at Core 1 is reading -10 degree celcius.
This means I need to wait another month to have another PCB which probably will not work.
So until now:
I change the Cores to new ones
I change capaciotive sensor board
I change PCB
Should I change the hole motherboard?
This is not good. And all this happens exactly after the warranty is over 😄
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beadster 3
Just had a nice chat with the service dept at 3DGBIRE and a very helpful lady gave me some more tips, along the lines you just suggested, they have had breaks in the sensor wires internally, the diag test will read OK but the self-levelling doesn't work.
yes, I am good with electronics, I build all sorts of race car electronics stuff from scratch. and we suffer similar issues on the race cars to solve it we use very high spec wire and very careful with routing
going to do as she and you suggest and test continuity on all wires.
then if I have no joy and due to time constraints (jobs stacking up) I will drop it off with them, and because it's out of warranty pay the 225£ for a fix it which isn't so bad.
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NTwoO 5
Once I had a print core that became unscrewed. See if you can feel play in the core when holding the heat block and gently turning the collar where the filament is inserted. Don't use tools or force as the connecting section is very thin.
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