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chris_uk

Bed Levelling and Calibration - Another one yes =)

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Hi All,

I have read other posts on the forum to some people having to recalibrate or re-level the bed after each print and some others lucky enough not having to touch it for some time.

I personally after quite some testing have found that I have needed to re-level the bed after every print. Each time I print I usually let it cool down enough for it to just pop off the glass bed with little force. I don't mind this but could be a bit tedious when having to print the same item multiple times.

What I have found works best for me so far:

1) Run "minicaltest" to check for right smooshed lines with base 0.3mm

(I only let it print the 4 borders and the diagonal line to the centre and abort)

2) Repeat if necessary.

3) Run 2-3 perimeter lines to double check and fine tune before main print.

4) Repeat after print.

So my question are:

1) How often do your re-calibrate your bed and re-level your bed?

Any tips for a more efficient process would be greatly appreciated. :mrgreen:

Chris

 

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If you re-level your bed while the nozzle and build plate are hot the bed seems to say level a good deal of time; a tip from gr5 I believe. If I remove the build plate I have to re-level about two times, then it's good until I take the build plate off again. I removed the sticker and sometimes I think I put the other side up, and things so stuck I'm afraid I'm pushing down on the build plate too much; yes even when it cools down. I reapply glue frequently and have prints with large flat bottoms.

I have a bed leveler file I print, it's just a frame that goes around the bed with 6 skirt lines; it should give you plenty of time to level the bed while hot. I'll PM you a link to the file if you like. I also notice that it helps get the last bit of gunk out of the nozzle after ABS print changes I think it has something to do with extra pressure in the nozzle?

 

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I usually keep a screwdiver ready when I start printing. If you print skirt lines at a large distance from the part, so that they cover a large part of the build area (tip by Dim3nsioneer ;)), then you can adjust your bed right while these lines print.

You have to be careful that you don't interfere with the printhead, of course! Only do that if you print the first layer very slowly (I usually do 20mm/s, wouldn't advise to go faster).

And, ideally, don't do it the first time you print a certain part, but watch it first so that you know how much time you'll have. Sometimes the printer jumps from one corner right to the other. Don't let it surprise you ;

/edit:

I forgot to mention: If you have to make big adjustments that way, you should consider restarting the print when you're done levelling. Especially if you use brim instead of skirt. Not worth losing a print just because you didn't want to restart during the first few minutes ;)

 

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@ Aaron

That link sounds good! The minicaltest only prints 1 skirt border line around the glass so sometimes end up having to abort and retry until I get it spot on.

I have also taken the sticker off the glass and didn't realise that each side were different? I assumed that both were the same and could be printed on without any major difference in surface adhesion. :eek:

I have yet to try any other filaments yet as im still testing with PLA to see what is possible. I would probably use ABS mostly for general prints but really keen to try out T-Glass and Ninjaflex.

@ Jonny

Yes, I've kept my bottom layer speed set to 20mm/s and as for the rest its usually no faster than 50mm/s. Im still amazed at the quality of prints coming out even though they are not quite perfect yet. I tend to level while everything is hot and printing the border lines as its the only true way of knowing.

I haven't used the Brim or Raft feature yet as I have been trying out the support structures on some mini figurines.. Will give it a go this weekend though!

 

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In my experience... I was sure the bed was level, and later.. seemed off. I realized just because the bed level wizard went ok in the beginning, didn't necessarily mean the prints will turn out in all layer heights. I start with the wizard, then move onto doing a basic print at the highest resolution(0.04mm). As it begins to do the brim, raft, or skirt.. I adjust the screws further until it puts down perfect sticking lines. This has been my key to success to acheive ulti-quality prints that stick. I take my glass out to wash regularly, move the z axis by hand, etc. and don't need to relevel.

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Has anyone recently had the issue of having to re-level the build plate after every use? Our Ultimaker 2+ seems to have this problem after working great for some time. The hardware has been checked and the firmware has been updated. It seems like the level will be correct if the build plate stays warm, but if it cools down it has to be re-calibrated.

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Ultimaker 2+ is usually very reliable and users don't have to relevel in multiple months after calibrating it carefully once. Can you walk us through your leveling procedure and what happens that makes you think it needs to be calibrated?

It uses the Z-endstop in the bottom plate to determine its home (zero) position. Can it be that there is something wrong with this end stop, which makes the homing position inconsistent? Perhaps the lever is loose or the whole end stop is loose.

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