Some more ideas:
A feeder that works?
Easy exchange nozzles (so you can print with different nozzle sizes)?
Possibility for a pretty enclosure?
Fancier stepper drivers (silentStepStick TMC2100? or similar?) to make the printer more silent?
Some more ideas:
A feeder that works?
Easy exchange nozzles (so you can print with different nozzle sizes)?
Possibility for a pretty enclosure?
Fancier stepper drivers (silentStepStick TMC2100? or similar?) to make the printer more silent?
Oh, and a Trespa HPL frame
Oh, and a Trespa HPL frame
We looked into that. Not going to happen. For two reasons. First, it's not forgiving enough with push fittings. Quite a few of our tests broke the panels when inserting the Z rods or bearings. Tuning the milling process is much harder.
Next it's the environmental aspect of Trespa. It's very low on the recyclable list.
The auto bed leveling on the printrbot is "meh" in my opinion. The sensors they are using has a large variation on depending on temperature and between each unit. And thus requiring calibration.
And, just because we gave up on dual-extrusion upgrade for the UM2. Does not mean we gave up on dual extrusion. Naturally, multiple materials is what is making dual-extrusion interesting.
The feeder of the UM2 isn't the best. We know, we're working on it. Good things are happening here.
And, wifi/network for a next printer is a bit of a natural next step.
Am I correct that the auto bed leveling on printerbot is not bed leveling at all, but software correction based on the sensor measurement ? In that case my gut feeling says real mechanical bed leveling is probably always better ..
Anyhow I think bed leveling on UM2 is easy and very stable.
I really don't see the need for auto bed leveling, i level my bed and i'm good for a few months without leveling again. I can even transport my um2 and it will still be good.
I like the filament sensor to detect failures or clogs it's something that could be usefull.
I just haven't seen the issue with the feeder. I printed a new one when we first got the printer but issue never arose. Any issues we'd had have been with the hot end and Teflon insert. I have seen the feeder issues though but I don't think it's that difficult to solve and many of the users have come up with some good stuff. On that topic.
Okay say I'm taking the Wi-Fi and putting it in the win column for now...... One small victory for the users.
In regards to the auto bed leveling I have to reset mine every time because it moves every time. In lean manufacturing setup time is wasted time if that's why we automate processes that are repetitive and repeatable.
Team Ultimaker
I know you haven't stopped working dual extrusion but I agree it's not about the colors, it's about the multiple materials. Getting the tips so they are the same height can be done but it could be hard to do in the machine but I could see a click in system where you could adjust the tips outside of the system aka a quick change nozzle. Not a Makerbot system but one that works.
If you have to relevel your bed after each print on the um2 then you have a problem (there was a bug in the firmware a couple of months ago i beleive it's corrected since the 14.07 version)
Team Ultimaker
I know you haven't stopped working dual extrusion but I agree it's not about the colors, it's about the multiple materials. Getting the tips so they are the same height can be done but it could be hard to do in the machine but I could see a click in system where you could adjust the tips outside of the system aka a quick change nozzle. Not a Makerbot system but one that works.
I agree. Two colors is not that interesting. It might be that there are people who want this, but i'm not interested in dual color at all (but multiple materials can be awesome).
On the leveling;
I've not leveled the bed of our machine in ages. It prints non-stop with constitantly good quality. Weird.
@ Ultiarjan:
You are. There is bed leveling (moving the bed so it's level) and compensation (find out orientation of the bed and compensate). Both have their pro's and cons.
for the the dual extrusion i found something interesting the guys from "builder" made.
one nozzle and two color (matrial). maybe is possible to do same with the ulti.
the problem with bedleveling was fixed.Do you use the newest firmware?
But was caused trouble is when you removing and inserting the glasplate again.
then I have to relevel my printer too.
Hallo all
How about this,
Cyclops - from E3D.
http://e3d-online.co...trusion/Cyclops
The Cyclops
2 In, 1 Out - Switching HotEnd Cyclops introduces a new way of printing multiple materials not yet seen before in commercially available hotends. By taking 2 input materials and printing them alternately from a single nozzle Cyclops is able to eliminate ooze problems that are inherent in most conventional dual extrusion systems. This new approach has been working excellently for us in testing at E3D, but we are releasing it now as an experimental product as we are still figuring out the best techniques for using this new HotEnd type.
- See more at: http://e3d-online.co...h.xUj1XmP2.dpuf
for the the dual extrusion i found something interesting the guys from "builder" made.
one nozzle and two color (matrial). maybe is possible to do same with the ulti.
the problem with bedleveling was fixed.Do you use the newest firmware?
But was caused trouble is when you removing and inserting the glasplate again.
then I have to relevel my printer too.
I do remove the glass enough for cleaning that it doesn't stay level. I use a glue stick on the place w/o any blue tape or slurry. The ABS really stick well with just the glue and can take a little work to get it off the build plate. I tried the slurry with ABS but that's too much work for little benefit. I have not tried hair spray since I never remember to pick it up when I'm shopping (I shave my head).
Hallo all
How about this,
Cyclops - from E3D.
http://e3d-online.co...trusion/Cyclops
The Cyclops
2 In, 1 Out - Switching HotEnd Cyclops introduces a new way of printing multiple materials not yet seen before in commercially available hotends. By taking 2 input materials and printing them alternately from a single nozzle Cyclops is able to eliminate ooze problems that are inherent in most conventional dual extrusion systems. This new approach has been working excellently for us in testing at E3D, but we are releasing it now as an experimental product as we are still figuring out the best techniques for using this new HotEnd type.
- See more at: http://e3d-online.co...h.xUj1XmP2.dpuf
Actually, I believe that the printers from build3r have had this for some time already.
Actually, I believe that the printers from build3r have had this for some time already.
Also, limits the material you can use quite a bit.
Just try ABS in one side and PLA in the other (most common materials right now). And I'm 100% sure you'll run into problems with the single nozzle setup. Unless you purge a lot of material when switching, which is a waste and generates a huge mess.
(Oh yes, I've tried this)
Yes, that is only intresting for multi-color printing, not for multi-material (multi-color does not intrest me that much)
I liked the additional 4" height of the UMextended, but what I'd really, REALLY love is 4" more in the X & Y! I realize that adding height alone doesn't introduce much more in the way of stability compared to wider/longer XY rods. Would thicker rods help? Anyway, larger build area would be #1 on my list.
I looking at the Fortus 250 yesterday and the rods in there are about 16mm Dia with drive belts that are about twice and thick. The stepper motors look to be about 23's too. You could make the unit more heavy duty or use a carriage and rail system. The price point has to be kept in mind too. I think it would be less expensive to do some of the electrical upgrades then some of the mechanical upgrades.
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jonnybischof 60
There is no fire and forget with 3D printers. It's just not that simple.
I'd prefer an actual ethernet LAN connection over wifi. Ethernet is more stable, and perfect for businesses (!). And you can always connect a wifi access point to an Ethernet port.
You'll just need to accept that this means the electronics will at least get 50 EUR more expensive over the current platforms.
My #1 priority would be a solid documentation for absolute beginners, teaching the basics about the machine, about Cura, about troubleshooting and about the necessary steps one needs to go through in order to get good prints.
I know most of this is out there somewhere, but it needs to be compiled in one place and every customer should be made aware of this documentation. (I don't have an UM2, so I don't know what it's actually shipped with today...)
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