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RickTrajano started following Cura slicing models with incorrect temperature on Gcode
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Cura slicing models with incorrect temperature on Gcode
RickTrajano posted a topic in UltiMaker Cura
Hello, I'm using Cura 4.13.1 on a Mac. I have 3 Printers added. Cr10s Pro, Ender 3 Pro and TwoTrees Bluer. When slicing models and trying to change the extruder temperature on the TwoTrees Printer profile, Cura always write 195ºC. No matter what temperature I put when slicing any file, the temperature on the Gcode is always 195ºC. Cura is changing the extruder temperature for all the other printers profiles, it's just not working for the Twotrees Bluer. Has anyone ever came across this issue? I don't see anything obviously wrong with the start G-code for this printer but here you go: G28 ;Home G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move bed down G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Bed up Thanks for your help -
Je n'ai pas de start G-code ni de End G-code. Est-ce que cela peut empêcher la machine d'imprimer? A vrai dire, je viens de commencer avec l'impression 3D surtout avec le modèle ultimaker. Pourriez-vous, me proposer un start G-code et un End G-code basic s'il vous plait? le temps de me familiariser avec.
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RickTrajano joined the community
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gr5 started following Ultimaker S5 R2: test check models to print
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Just print what you need to print. Everyone has completely different needs. You may need to print something smaller than a grape. Or bigger than a shoe. You may need something that doesn't need to look good but needs to be strong. Or you may be making artwork. Everyone cares about different things and every requirement requires making choices. e.g. you can print fast, accurate, or pretty but each one of these desires hurts the other 2. So instead of thinking of this as a precious posession, think about what you need to print.
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Temp drops during prints on UM3
gr5 replied to waizman's topic in Third party products & modifications
In my experience, petg gets a little worse as it absorbs water. Nylon and PVA get MUCH worse as they absorb water. PLA and ABS don't care. I don't keep my PLA dry. It can be in a humid environment for years and no big deal. I have 7 year old PLA and ABS and they don't seem to need any drying or anything. Unlike petg. Yeah, print 2.85mm aka "3mm" filament.😜 I don't understand how you are printing with 1.75 then. You did zero modifications? 3dsolex.com used to sell a conversion kit. I'm not sure that they still do. It involved a different printcore and a bowden-in-a-bowden like you describe (3OD/2ID). And a 3d printed "plug" that you put in the feeder end to keep the inner from getting sucked into the feeder. This solution only worked in the left core because the right core goes up and down so the inner bowden needs to stretch/shrink. I know someone who solved this with a 3OD/2ID spring that could compress when the right core went up. -
jayfowler2012 joined the community
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AKazak started following AA 0.4 printing head cleanup steps and Ultimaker S5 R2: test check models to print
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Greetings! Ultimaker S5 R2 Can you share few test models to check the printer and verify its correct operation, please? Thank you.
- Today
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Greetings! Ultimaker S5 R2 Recently one of two printing heads started to give error in the beginning of the printing. What are the proper steps to clear the head from molten plastic? Thank you.
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AKazak joined the community
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Thanks... that's exactly the file I needed. Fixing it is trickier than I thought it might be. The idea with support interface is that by default there's an air gap of one layer below a floor or above a roof (so that it comes off more easily), but it doesn't seem to be taking into account being on the baseplate (which should give it regular support below, except that your height is exactly what it would use for interface. Unsatisfactory solution #1: Disable Support > Enable Support Interface > Enable Support Roof Gets us the base support we'll use, but it also means we have no interface so supports are going to be harder to remove (especially little ones like this). Unsatisfactory solution #2: Set Support > Support Structure to Normal That's exactly how the support should look in that situation. It also gives us the problem that there's a bunch of tiny holes that will get filled with support which is going to be a pain to remove which wouldn't be there if we were using trees. Somewhat satisfactory solution #1: Set Support > Support Interface Thickness > Support Roof Thickness to 0.4mm This makes the support roof short enough that it'll print regular support beneath it to hold it up. Is it going to make a huge difference having two roof layers instead of the default four? In a model like this, probably not. Effective but really, really fiddly solution #1: Add supports manually I've only done it for one section in this screenshot, but you can create a support blocker, move and scale it so that it's the right position and size, and use the Per Model Settings tool to set the Mesh type to "Print as support". But you'd need to use several here due to the shapes the support area goes in. And, umm... that's all I can think of for now. I would definitely advise going with the "lower support roof thickness" option.
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xysom joined the community
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Parce que cela me mettra de gérer mes impressions depuis mon bureau. Un autre point important, j'ai ajouté S5 à mon Cura ensuite j'ai fait la découpe de mon fichier stl et donc un fichier UMS...ufp. Lorsque le l'ai mis sur la clé USB pour impression, la S me dit que le fichier a un problème. Résultat toute une journée sans aucune impression. Je veux Digital Factory car je pense que ça pourrait peut être résoudre ce problème UMS5_RoueEngrenS.ufp
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Cuq started following Progressively reduced speed for thin and tall print
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Progressively reduced speed for thin and tall print
Cuq replied to Jerome85's topic in UltiMaker Cura
https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins/5axes/CuraSlowZ -
@Dustin, j'ai vérifié le réseau. c'est le wifi du laboratoire ou je travail. J'ai également passé au peigne fin votre article. J'ai passé toute la journée d'hier sur cette imprimante. Mais mes efforts n'ont pas été récompensés. J'ai aussi réinitialisé le Digital Factory.
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Thanks a lot! i got it of thingiverse, when i loaded it up in cura and solidworks i didnt notice the model being weird. Since i am comparing different extrusion widths and support settings, these lines didnt appear on the wider extrusion widths, so i though it would be a slicer thing.
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Does this help? You are right...I wasn't able to remove that grid-like stuff starting at layer2 😞 CE3MAX_V2_6_ALL.3mf
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Slashee_the_Cow started following Random wavy lines on straight wall
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The problem is in your model: (enhanced contrast to show the different shading of different faces) The file is also technically invalid, but not bad enough to prevent it from being loaded. That may be the cause of the wavy lines though (as that face is defined as a bunch of columns rather than the simplicity of just using two triangles). What program did you use to create it? SketchUp is sort of considered a running joke about how terrible the files it exports are and Blender (or other mesh-based modelling programs) don't always get it quite right, because it's not what they're designed for. Ideally for structures made of basic shapes like this you would use a CAD program.
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andr100175 joined the community
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Temp drops during prints on UM3
waizman replied to waizman's topic in Third party products & modifications
Thanks for your answers. Makes sense! Dunno. I was the only thing I saw changing while the print failed. Needs more testing. The purple filament is pretty new. Maybe a week since I opened it. I live in a pretty dry place (Eilat) and the humidity level usually stay under 30%. It is generic, but the other colors from the same brand work great. During prints it doesn't break and no cracks are visible. It's not "crunchy" either and cannot be broken by bending it. Very weird filament... I don't. I use the original 6.35mm bowden tubes. BTW I tried replacing them with new ones and found out mine were too small (6mm) 🙈 Also tried to insert a 3OD/2ID bowden in the original one and it got sucked in by the retractions as you mentioned. I was considering gluing it inside the original one using superglue, but I don't know if it will give me any improvements and I don't wanna ruin the bowden... Any thoughts? -
Johannes_m started following Random wavy lines on straight wall
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Hello, for some prints, cura produces a wavy line on a straight section of wall. does anyone know a possible reason? Thanks in advance! Cheers CFFFP_Support_Test.3mf
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Johannes_m joined the community
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MDRizki started following Method XL 3D Printer
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Hello, I'd like to inquire about whether the Method XL is compatible with third-party filament. I've discovered that it can't utilize Ultimaker filament because it only supports 1.75mm filament.
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maxwellsfate started following Print setup disabled. G code file can not be modified.
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Print setup disabled. G code file can not be modified.
maxwellsfate replied to jrvalentin62's topic in UltiMaker Cura
So once I slice something, that's it I can't change anything? So I need to restart a project all over if I want to change a setting? When did they change this because I remember being able to change things even after it is sliced and saved. -
maxwellsfate joined the community
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Gareth123 joined the community
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Temp drops during prints on UM3
gr5 replied to waizman's topic in Third party products & modifications
So wait - you are using 1.75mm pla through smaller bowdens. Does the bowden go down inside of the print core? I guess that's fine. I can't think of any reason it would get hung up. How do you keep the smaller bowden from retracting into the feeder on retractions and chewing up the bowden in the feeder? -
Temp drops during prints on UM3
gr5 replied to waizman's topic in Third party products & modifications
Unlike some filaments, PLA tends to be able to last forever. It doesn't need to be kept dry. Although if you unspool "old" (even just 1 year old sometimes) PLA into the bowden and leave it in the bowden for 24 hours, many PLA formulations will crack. If retract the PLA back onto the spool before turning off the printer it's usually fine. "old" PLA does not like to be straightened out for more than a few hours. So that could be it. You can kind of tell because sometimes you can see the PLA has cracks in it when looking through the bowden. And when there is a retraction, sometimes you see where the crack is closest to the feeder which could be anywhere along the bowden. One fix is that if you leave filament in the bowden for more than 8 hours, take it out and cut off the last meter and throw that away. You can test the filament by bending it and it should not break. It should just bend in a knot. The longer you leave it unspooled, the more brittle the filament gets. Then the breaks in the filament reach the print head and sometimes they pass through but other times they get stuck in the printhead and your print fails. Once you get past the first meter (typically an hour or so) you are usually fine. I imagine 1.75mm filament isn't as bad because bending it is much less stressful for the plastic. -
Temp drops during prints on UM3
gr5 replied to waizman's topic in Third party products & modifications
oh! I totally misunderstood the graph. Okay so the orange graph is very flat. That's fine then. I was trying to figure out how the temperature was dipping. But it wasn't. It's the brown graph that is dipping - that's how much power is applied. For some reason it needs less power as you go. Probably extruding slower - or actually as you get farther from the glass bed, there is less bouncing up of the moving air around the nozzle so less nozzle cooling. That's probably it. Okay so there's nothing wrong with the temperature profiles. A red herring. Well... not much wrong. Something is loose I suppose and it measures infinite resistance and interprets that as 700 ohms, then kills power to nozzle, then temp retruns and it has to compensate for a bit for the lack of power but briefly enough that nozzle doesn't deviate from goal temp by much. So your print failure might have nothing to do with temperature. -
TheMainMan started following Connection error
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Cura no longer sees our Ultimaker S3. I have tried the following to fix this: I have uninstalled Cura, then installed the latest version of Cura I installed the latest firmware on the printer itself I deleted all printers from Cura, then added the printer to Cura again. I re-started the wi-fi setup on the printer itself I opened Cura after turning on the printer… no luck I opened Cura before turning on the printer… no luck I rebooted our router Cura knows our printer exists, but the only option I have now is “save to disk.” “Print over network” and “print over cloud” are no longer options. In addition, I deleted the printer from the digital factory, then attempted to add the printer back to the digital factory. The printer says “connected” to TDSwifi. My computer is connected to the same wi-if network as the printer. Despite what I stated above, when I try to add the printer back to the digital factory, the printer says “connection error” and will not display a code to enter into my computer. How can I make Cura see my printer again?
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First off: it always makes it a lot easier for us to figure it out if you post a Cura project file (.3mf, get it ready to print then go to File > Save Project). But the answer as best as I can tell: You're using trees. You're not getting zigzags as support, you're getting grid (or zigzag, hard to tell because they look pretty much the same) support interface (which is why it's dark blue instead of light blue), which prints on top of the support, the idea being it's easier to remove cleanly after it's printed. (that idea often doesn't bear out in real life). As for the difference with overhang angle: it's hard to tell based on the screenshots (which is why having the project file is so helpful) but it looks like the back part of your model - rises up at about a 45° angle, so a 45° support angle won't generate support for it because it assumes the printer can handle a 45° overhang. I usually have my support overhang angle set at about 55° for PLA. The tree trunks I've highlighted from the first screenshot aren't there to support the main part (with the support interface), they're there to support that raised lip at the back: So why no tree trunks under the support interface? My guess would be Support > Minimum Height to Model (if you can't see it, make sure support structure is set to trees then search for it): it won't generate trees for areas under a certain height to prevent tiny blobs of tree.
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Plate scraping after I leveled bed perfectly
GregValiant replied to Dead3ye's topic in Improve your 3D prints
The male form would be "Slashee_the_Bull". -
Progressively reduced speed for thin and tall print
GregValiant replied to Jerome85's topic in UltiMaker Cura
It is an easy thing to do in post-process so that's where it is. As you saw - there are many post processors capable of a variety of effects on the gcode. If they were all implemented directly in Cura then what is already a cluttered interface of over 600 settings would be completely unwieldly. -
Temp drops during prints on UM3
waizman replied to waizman's topic in Third party products & modifications
As I said, I tested 3 printcores and they all act similarly... Some of them are already re-programed (BB to AA, of course I changed the nozzle to match) as instructed here: Print core BB-0.4 wrongly recognized as a AA-0.8 - Improve your 3D prints - UltiMaker Community of 3D Printing Experts The 700c spike is momentarily and as far as I recall it happens on all 3 printcores. So I think it's not them. I will probably disassemble the whole head tomorrow and make sure everything is tight. --- So I changed the purple filament I was using and the print was successful. Not the best (stringing-wise mostly), but it was a 5-YEAR-OLD filament I had laying around. Photos attached. It's a 56 minute Benchy BTW. Not bad. Some things I've noticed: - The graph looks much better to me, overall it's much more stable. - Retractions cause the small temp spikes in the heater (Brown) line. - There is a steady decline in the Brown line trend. - Orange temp sensor line is rock solid. - The previous two points mean the heating block steadily needs less energy to keep the temperature? - The 700c spike is momentary but it causes the heater to drop to ~50c and then overshoot the Orange sensor line. Not a big deal probably but if it is fixable - why not. Now what I don't understand is WTF is up with the purple filament? It's new and shouldn't perform worse than a 5 y/o filament that got no care at all... My primary goal is to make the system failproof - maximum relatability and quality. Once that have been achieved - find the maximum speeds possible while maintaining reliability and quality.