All Activity

So how do you update the firmware? Do you need to? im so new to this that im unaware of what I should do.

Printing over USB is deprecated and no longer supported. It's a remnant from the days when printers had absolutely no brains of their own and had to be told what to do one thing at a time. It's also a bad idea in general. If your computer crashes or something, then boom, there goes your print. You should save gcode files to a memory card/USB drive/whatever your printer uses and run it from the printer itself.

Looking for some help please. I have an Ender 3 S1 Pro, I just upgraded to the latest version of Cura, looking to add my printer via the USB-C on the Ender to Cura on my Mac. Ive tried restarting the Printer, closing and reopening Cura, no dice! any help welcome

You can submit a feature request if you'd like to see this behaviour changed. The devs don't spend much time on the forums so submitting it on GitHub is the best way to reach them.

Is it saving its configuration file? It should be in ~/.local/share/cura/5.6 called cura.cfg

Still for sale.

@T9_AIR - "...A Z seam forms during the time it takes the printhead, specifically the nozzle, to jump to the next layer..." That is (at best) misleading. Consider a hollow box with 5mm walls. There is an outer wall facing inward, and an outer wall facing outward. Whichever outer wall is printed first, there is no layer change when moving to the other outer wall and yet each outer wall will have a Z-seam. The layer change doesn't come into it. In FDM printing there is always a Z-seam. If you can stick the Z-seam in a corner it's less noticeable. See #1. If the object is round you have two choices: Make the Z-seam location "Random". There is still a Z-seam (see #1) but it is at a different location on every layer so it doesn't form a line. This works well on things like printed threads. It can often look like randomly located zits on a print. The Z-seams will all be lined up somewhere on the print. It is the customary scar. See #1. This is two identical parts. You can see that the inner diameter has a Z-seam and the outer diameter has a Z-seam.

I'm running Cura 5.6.0 on Linux Mint. Every time I open it, it shows me the "what's new in this version" advertisement. Also, certain settings refuse to be saved, for example I have to enable tree supports by going into the advanced menu and enabling them every single time I restart Cura. Cura also doesn't remember my home directory and forces me to navigate my entire filesystem when I open every single print, which was noted elsewhere and may or may not be related to this problem of not being able to remember defaults or settings.

This spool of PVA has been open for about a month, there is little left on the spool, enough for a few more prints. We have another spool on order. The rest of this spool has been very reliable. The hygrometer in our lab reads 62% humidity, so we have been printing and storing everything at this level. The spool has been dried in the filament dryer before each print, approximately 10 times.

This spool of PVA is about a month old, there is little left on the spool, enough for a few more prints. We have another spool on order. The rest of this spool has been very reliable. In addition, the hygrometer in our lab reads 62% humidity, so we have been printing and storing everything at this level.

How long has the PVA been open? How was it stored? It can have issues with too much dryness as well as too much humidity. Have you dried this same roll more than once? Is your silicone nozzle cover installed and intact?

I got stuck on this as well. The option to "Add Printer by IP" shows up as the next screen after selecting "Non UltiMaker Printer" as the printer to set up. That flow is misleading, makes it seem like any networked printer can be added. The UI should probably suppress the networked option after selecting non-ultimaker.

Das war nur ein Beispiel ob er zusätzlich wie M0, M1, M25 oder M600 was erreichen kann, mußt er natürlich ausprobieren. Ich weiß dass der Drucker weiß wo er ist, nur seine Firmware läßt nicht zuerst G91 benutzen dann wieder ins Minus zu fahren. Sieh dir sein Script doch mal an, nirgends ein G91 zu sehen. Diese Möglichkeit hatte ich oben genannt. Das war spezial auf sein Druckobjekt gerichtet, was hätte ich sonst schreiben sollen, um heraus zu finden wie seine Firmware tick? Ich hatte auch nicht geschrieben er soll das für immer in sein End Code übernehmen. Er hat nichts verstanden was wir hier schreiben, reine Zeitverschwendung.

Hi, Yesterday I sat in on the Factor 4 webinar. The machine does look really capable. Maybe there are more people that want to share some experiences and pose questions. I for one want to elaborate on a question I posed that was maybe misunderstood. When printing and there is a bed adhesion issue, it is noticeable that the tool head shudders over the raised corner that is not adhering to the bed. There were mentions that the new printer has accelerometers in the head. My question was whether the head has only X/Y accelerometers or also Z accelerometers for possibly detecting these issues when the head "crashes" over the lifting corners.

Just out of curiosity, is the PVA spool you are printing with relatively new? And do you know the relative humidity of the area around the printer? We bought sensors for our work here at our shop, and keep one in the material station empty slot that we have to ensure it is drying properly.

I guess I'm wondering if the "material empty" issue is now caused by all that earlier dust in the feeder sensor and that it's printing just fine? Seems unlikely but maybe one error causes the other? I don't recommend this but FYI you can disable the filament sensor. If you put in the IP address of your printer in a web browser and click "temperature graph" you can see the filament sensor readings. They are confusing but possibly helpful. It only shows the last 10 minutes or so but if you keep that window up in your browser it will accumulate "forever".

I see nothing suspicious about the tip of the removed filament. It looks typical to me I think? You'll get more defined, useful information from a cold pull which should be a perfect mold of your heater block and nozzle. But your printer has successfully printed 8^3mm/sec which tells me it is in pretty good shape. But something is either on the edge or intermittent. Make sure to check the front fan each time you check other things. Maybe with a flashlight? Or you can use the TUNE menu to turn off the side fans briefly and then it's obvious if you can still hear the front fan spinning. If it were me I'd replace the print core. It's cheap (compared to the cost of filament) and easy to do and I'm sure you have more important things to do with your time - so that's a quick thing to try.

and I have decreased the printing speed too.

Hi, Thanks for the tips. I have to use the models for various experiments and attach them to force balances. I have used the blocking supports and they are good. I attached a new filament, PLA black tough, turned off z hop and combing. I have increased the temperature to 220 too. The first 6 hours went smooth before it started giving me the material empty error again. Checked feeder and there's NO grinding at all. Tried running it two-three times but in vain. Unload the material, something seems off at the tip. Please check the picture. Loaded it again and it was smooth and consistent, picture attached. Working fine for the last 30 minutes. Thank you again. Will update about the progress.

Make sure your parts aren't so big or tiny that Cura automatically scales them (or just turn the auto scaling off in the settings). If you could share an example of a file which has this issue then we can have a look and see if there's anything to be figured out.

@DivingDuck ja ich habe den G91 vergessen, Danke Ich habe jetzt vieles ausprobiert, aber ich schätze wie @zerspaner_gerd sagt, liegt es an der Firmware Danke an alle für die Unterstützung.

ARM version for Mac has been out for awhile. I am finding the ARM 5.7.0 version almost unusable. It is constantly freezing. Objects are no longer placed separately. When I upload multiple items they are dumped in a pile in the center and I have to separate them out. One object at a time just dumps the most recent object on top of the last one. Items were automatically deposited separately in previous versions. Don't get me started with the grid placement. It is buggy as all get out. Does anyone know which ARM version actually works?

On an Ultimaker S3, I am printing a 24 hour print with PLA and PVA. I dry the PVA with the filament dryer before beginning the print. It will print well for a few hours, then the flow sensor stops the print. I open the feeder box, clean it out, ensure the tightness aligns with the center line on the side of the feeder (and once tried printing with it set tighter, no luck), and remove the PVA filament. I then use the hot/cold pull method to clean out the BB print core. Then I reload the PVA, and restart the print. Once again, the PVA will print fine for a few hours, then ceases to flow out through the nozzle. I turn the flow sensor off and sure enough, after a few hours, the PVA still ceases to extrude out of the nozzle. It seems the flow sensor is functioning correctly. I test both feeders with PLA and an AA print core, and all goes well. I know the problem does not lie with the feeders, nor the flow sensor. Either the PVA is bad (though I do dry it and do not print or store filament in a humid environment), or the print core is bad because it stops extruding out after a few hours even after cleaning. I feel I have tried everything. Before investing in a new BB print core, how can I resolve this issue? @Dustin, I know you are a PVA pro.

+1 to my untrusted sources list. I actually tend to get an underextruded Z seam, which is why the Outer Wall Wipe Distance option exists. The printer doesn't wait before it moves up a layer - it just moves up. My Ender-3 V3 SE has a max Z feedrate of 10mm/s. Now, I'll admit I can't do all the maths regarding acceleration and such, but at 10mm/s, moving up a 0.2mm layer takes... less time that it took me to type that "...". It'll take a bit longer if you have Retract at Layer Change turned on, but retracting and then priming 0.8mm at 40mm/s takes... yep, still less time than that "...". Now let's look at if I print multiple objects all at once: Each object has its own Z seam, every layer. Because each object has a place where it starts printing the outer wall every layer. With multiple objects like that, if the nozzle drools a bit, it'll give me stringing, but that's only because of the time it takes to move from one object to the next. Next test: That's 0.05mm layers (not that I could do that on my 0.4mm nozzle, but this is for demonstration purposes) at my printer's maximum build height. Total layers: 4995. How long will it take to print? How much longer will it take if I lower the maximum Z feedrate from 10mm/s to 1mm/s? */me breaks out calculator* Okay, so that's added... 48 milliseconds to each layer change. How much do I extrude in 48ms? Well, since I'm printing at 60mm/s... */me breaks out calculator again* It's equivalent to moving another 2.9mm... */me breaks out calculator again* Ugh, geometry was never my speciality. Pretty much lacking spatial reasoning doesn't help. But that is, if my calculations are correct, about 0.058mm³ of filament. Or adjusting the calculations to print 0.2mm layers instead of 0.05mm, still only 0.23mm³ of filament. Which is really friggin tiny. That's how much is added if I lower the Z speed of my printer by 90% and print thousands of layers. Okay, time for another theoretical experiment: what if I lower the Z acceleration from 500mm/s² to 1mm/s², while keeping the max feedrate at 1mm/s. How much does that add to the print time? A bigger difference! 204.2ms per layer! A time discrepancy you might actually notice. And rather than run all my calculations again, I can just multiply the results by 4.25 (divide this time by the previous one). That would give us a blob of 0.98mm³ of filament. That's probably a noticeable blob. But it's also a "worst case scenario" so bad that you're far better off buying a new printer than dealing with Z seam blobs on this theoretical printer.

Everything I have seen online says that the Z-seam is caused by the wait before the printer moves up a layer. https://all3dp.com/2/cura-z-seam-tutorial/